We are not Parisians, but by applying some of our hard won small town France knowledge we have discovered some real bargains.
Eating for a reasonable price in Paris, particularly around the Grands Boulevards - that part of Paris "amenaged" so stylishly by Baron Haussmann in the 1870's - is very difficult. In particular the area around the Champs-Elysées can be a problem. We wrote in September about how moving just one block away from a main shopping thoroughfare can improve your chances of finding reasonably priced foods in London - and Paris is the same. Caffé Zaf is more than one block away from the Champs-Elysées, but only just (if you squint). It is one block away from Boulevard Haussmann. (I have it marked on a map here)

It's not a Michelin Star dining experience, but it is more like what real Parisians experience for lunch, it is really good value and the procedure for getting a coffee is very interesting (I won't spoil it, I am not even sure I understand it!).
The church of St Augustine is just up the road

On the topic of good value travel: I am a "destination expert" for the Loire Valley on Tripadvisor. I am, however, starting to question the value of forums where travellers give advice to fellow travellers. Far too many times on the Tripadvisor forum do I see people who have been to a place once or twice, giving advice on where to eat/stay/shop and claiming good value for prices that I would blanche at and no resident of a town would pay. Meals that I would pay no more than 10€ for are suddenly "good value" or even "cheap" at 25€: steack haché, moules, poule et frites. If you're travelling and want to know about value, ask a local, not a fellow traveller - their knowledge is most likely gained either from a book or another traveller further down the track.
This also means that places that you or I might look at and think "not bad" suddenly gain iconic status: Rue Cler is a place that no American worth their salt would miss on a trip to Paris, simply because it gets mentioned in a guidebook that Americans seem to rate above all others (and no-one outside the North Americas has ever heard of).
Simon
5 comments:
Simon,
What a good read. We've done Paris 6 times (coming and going) now and the Loire twice, but we can still learn from your experience.
Our last stay in Paris was in the 11th, not a tourist area at all but just as interesting from another point of view.
We will be visiting Tours for an overnight stay in March - any advise?
Enjoy your blogs. How is Celestine?
Leon
The time to travel in Paris, and the cheapest way is --in the past.
Few decades ago I was heading for Paris in the winter and a friend said, "Believe it or not, in the winter you can stay at the George Sank for ten bucks a night."
That was hard to believe, but it turned out to be true.
Today you can stay at the George V for the about the price of a late-model BMW. :-)
Leon & Sue
Rue Colbert (as mentioned in this thispost) has plenty of good inexpensive restaurants. Tours is a university town, so there are plenty of inexpensive eats and drinks to be had
Berowne. That's only £2 per George!! I hope you made the most of it
Thanks for the tips. I have to make two confessions to you Simon. I so much enjoy depending on TripAdvisor (recent trip to London) and do completely adore Rick Steves. Yikes. I have done a decent amount of traveling and when I first "met" you and Susan it was in researching for our stay in a gite near Preuilly. I think for me they have been helpful jumping off info. bases into a sea of travel info. where I am the only guide, as we do not know anyone living abroad nor anyone who has travelled much abroad besides ourselves. I don't go strickly by "the book" though and we have become more adventuresome in our planning. Like Rue Cler...another confession, yeah, we went, took a few minutes to take it in and discovered we were more delighted with the Avenue Junot Montmartre neighborhood of our apartment instead. Lessons learned.
Jenny - I have no problems with guidebooks - excpet maybe having enough bookcases to store them. That is the secret though: have plenty of guidebooks, and use them the way you do - as a guide, rather than an sacred text
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