Thursday, 5 February 2026

Chateau de Verneuil

We had an appointment with Simon's urologist a week ago and used the taxi-ambulance to get there. On the way the driver stopped to pick up a third passenger in Verneuil sur Indre. We got talking and she was able to give us the latest on the chateau in the village.

It is a particularly lovely chateau that was for many years a residential home for disadvantaged children. When they moved out the chateau was acquired by an investor who announced very grand plans, which included apartments, a country club style hotel, an equestrian centre and a camp ground. Unfortunately it turned out he was operating a Ponzi scheme, and it eventually fell apart.

Our taxi companion told us that the chateau has now been bought by a private individual who intends restoring it and making it his home. He already has a chateau in Morbihan, so we hope he has deep pockets. The Chateau de Verneuil looks lovely in the landscape, but it has suffered many decades of neglect, so to turn it into a comfortable home will take considerable investment. Nevertheless, everyone is very happy to have such a buyer turn up. It is the perfect solution. Apparently the new owner has fallen in love with the Touraine and with the Chateau de Verneuil.

These photos were taken by Monica in September 2024. 

Wednesday, 4 February 2026

Dovecotes in the Touraine

Dovecotes in French are colombiers, or more often, pigeonniers. They are buildings in which to house and raise domestic pigeons.

 

Chateau du Petit-Thouars, near Chinon.

Dovecote, France.

 

The word colombier comes from the Latin, but since the 18th century the term pigeonnier has more commonly been used and colombier has become obsolete. The term colombier is restricted to free standing towers, or housing for homing pigeons. They generally date from the Renaissance up to the 20th century. Modern changes in agriculture, especially the increasing cultivation of crops such as sugarbeet, have led to the raising of pigeons becoming obsolete (ie farms were not necessarily raising enough cereal to feed pigeons).

 

Chateau du Petit-Thouars, near Chinon.

Dovecote, france.

 

There is a third word in French to designate a dovecote -- sometimes, especially in the Touraine, they are called a fuie. The term dates from the early 12th century and implies a refuge. They are small scale and able to be closed with a shutter, mainly used more domestically for personal consumption of a modest individual household. These dovecotes are modifications to existing buildings rather than freestanding purpose built constructions.

 

Chateau du Petit-Thouars, near Chinon.

Dovecote, France.

Dovecotes come in quite a range of sizes and architectural styles. Amongst a dozen other areas scattered across France the Touraine is rather well known for its extant dovecotes. The most common style in the Touraine is the cylindrical tower, dating from the 14th to the 16th century. These were generally topped with tiles, but may have a cupola and a lantern. They have a single dormer entrance, and exterior ledges for the pigeons to land and take off from.

 

Chateau du Petit-Thouars, near Chinon.

Dovecote, France.

The interior of a pigeonnier has niches known in French as boulins. Each niche houses a pair of birds. The boulins can be made of stone, brick or daub, and made as part of the construction, or they can be ceramic or wicker and added later. There are several dovecotes in France with 2000 or more niches. The number of niches is a sign of wealth and indicates how much land the owner is cultivating. It was not unknown for socially climbing dovecote owners to add fake niches, to try to hoodwink the families they wished to marry into.

 

Chateau du Petit-Thouars, near Chinon.

Dovecote, France.

Inside the dovecote is a honeycomb of niches. Up to about 80 cm from the ground is empty, to prevent predators from climbing up. In the centre is a mechanism to which one or two ladders are attached, and it can be swung all the way around to give access to the nests at any height, so they can be cleaned, and the 4-5 week old squabs taken for the table. Troughs for water and food were placed on the floor. The entry window opening could be closed by a wooden grill operated from the ground by a pulley.

 

Chaumussay.

Dovecote, France.

It seems to have been the Romans who introduced the practice of raising pigeons in France. In the Middle Ages dovecotes supplied a luxury food, but also an important source of fertiliser, that could help enrich the local Lord. Pigeon guano was used up until the mid-20th century as fertiliser. At the end of the 19th century it was estimated that 2 million pigeons were consumed in the City of Paris per year.

 

Private garden, Chinon.

Dovecote, France.

Property owners had to apply for the right to erect a dovecote, and its size had to reflect the importance of the property. They were often placed over a chook shed, a kennel, a bread oven or a pantry. Generally the smaller ones were integrated into a stable, barn, or shed. Owners had to prove a minimum of 25 hectares of land was being cultivated if they wanted up to 120 niches.  

 

Boussay.

Dovecote, France.

Whilst the pigeons produced an excellent fertiliser, they were still viewed as a menace at seed sowing time. During that season the birds were shut up in their dovecotes.

 

Fortified farm, Vesvre (Neuilly Deux Clochers).

Dovecote, France.

After the Revolution raising pigeons by commoners became a symbol of what had been won, and niches were added to many houses.

 

 Les Louroux.

Dovecote, France.

Dovecotes need to be positioned away from large trees to prevent raptors from staking them out. Likewise they need features to discourage predation by rodents and mustelids (martens and weasels), for example smooth tiled or plastered surrounds to the entrances, or being elevated off the ground on a central pole.

 

Chateau de Valencay, Antan.

Dovecote, France.

Nowadays, small dovecotes are erected by municipalities who want to encourage pigeons to nest somewhere convenient and not on street lights and window ledges. The municipal dovecotes are usually managed so eggs are systematically sterilised, in order to reduce and control the urban pigeon population.

Tuesday, 3 February 2026

Look Out for Snowdrops in the Touraine Loire Valley

Galanthus nivalis, commonly known as the Snowdrop (Fr. perce-neige, which translates as 'snow piercer') is one of those plants that people look forward to seeing, and it has many folkloric associations. The scientific name translates as 'milk flower of the snow'. The English name probably comes from a German word 'schneetropfen', which is the name of the teardrop shaped pearl earrings popular at the time snowdrops were introduced to Britain, in the 16th century.

Snowdrops galanthus nivalis, France.

It is native to central and southern Europe, from the Black Sea to western France. The natural northern distribution limit is debatable, because there has been so much cultivation and naturalisation, but it's probably southern Belgium.

In France it is classed as rather rare in the West, Centre (Loire Valley) and Pyrénées. Elsewhere it is rare, or naturalised, especially in the East. The flowers appear in early spring, no matter what the temperature. Thanks to the natural 'anti-freeze' in the plants they can withstand frost and snow, and push through regardless. Snowdrops can flower as early as December and as late as May, but generally flowering will be around Candlemas (Fr. Chandeleur) in early February up until the vernal equinox in March. Snowdrops are threatened in their natural habitats due to habitat destruction, illegal collecting and climate change.

Snowdrops galanthus nivalis, France.

When it's sunny the flowers open and the interior reflects ultraviolet light, alerting the few early emerging pollinators. Along with hazel and willow catkins, they are the most important source of pollen (food) for early flying solitary bees. You can find them on the edges of cool damp woods or sometimes open grasslands with nitrogen rich soil. I often find them in ditches.

The species is widely cultivated, and there are many varieties as well as other species. The bulbs have been known since antiquity as both toxins and antidotes.

Snowdrops galanthus nivalis, France.

Symbolically the plant is associated with heralding spring and hope, as well as purification and the Christian festival of Candlemas. Conversely it is also associated with sorrow, and considered a harbinger of death, possibly because it was widely planted in cemeteries. Some people are superstitious about bringing the flowers inside for this reason.

Snowdrops galanthus nivalis, France.

Snowdropping, by the way, is Australian slang for stealing women's underwear off clotheslines.

Monday, 2 February 2026

Creme Caramel

Homemade creme caramel.

Crème caramel is a truly classic French dessert, served in restaurants from the humblest workers canteen to the fanciest high end classical French cuisine establishment. They are also made at home by those who enjoy cooking for their family or entertaining. A crème caramel is welcome on any dining table, and it is in many ways an archetypal French dessert -- small and dairy based, a few creamy sweet mouthfuls to properly round off your meal. The few ingredients necessary will be in everyone's pantry and kitchen -- sugar, milk, eggs and vanilla. It's not difficult to make perfectly edible crème caramel. It does take practice not to over cook them and make perfect crème caramel.

Homemade creme caramel.

Here are a couple of recipes that I've used and I know work. They give you a classic crème caramel. If you are nervous about turning them out, don't bother. The caramel will still be there in the bottom of your dish.

https://www.deliaonline.com/recipes/international/european/french/creme-caramel

https://www.pardonyourfrench.com/creme-caramel-recipe/

 

Homemade creme caramel.

 

Friday, 30 January 2026

The Foundry in Abilly

We were saddened to learn that the foundry in the middle of Abilly will close permanently in a weeks time, with the loss of around 30 jobs. In a small community that is significant. Also significant is the loss of technical knowledge and skill. 

 

The village of Abilly.

Abilly, France.

Joseph Pinet established the foundry in the town in 1820 to manufacture agricultural machinery parts. In 2020 it was still going strong and employed 27 people, making parts for tractors and trailers for 150 clients. The workers skills in metallurgy are no longer supported by the State Education system, so on the job training is really important now. The management was very conscious of the impact a foundry has on a small village, both in a positive sense as an important employer, but also the potential negatives such as pollution. The factory by this time was recycling all its waste and reusing the sand used to make moulds. They had also installed chimney filters and caps to capture particles, and replaced the old furnaces with induction furnaces using clean energy.

Many foundries closed in the 1980s, victims of Chinese competition. The foundry at Abilly survived by diversifying into home decor, making candelabras for the North African market. They also successfully promoted their park benches and rubbish bins to municipalities. They made parts for locks and hydraulic pumps, but rarely the complete product in these sectors.

Thursday, 29 January 2026

Retromobile 2026

Retromobile opens today in Paris. The headline news for us is that once more we're not going to be there. We were last there in 2018, then we had a planned break. The plague got in the way in 2020 and 2021, and we fell fell out of the habit. The past two years we've had plans to visit until and then my prostate intervened. It's about time we went again.

In the meantime, some random cars from past years.





Other Retromobile pix can be found here: