Tuesday, 15 September 2015

La Tour Saint Antoine, Loches

Nearly 500 years after its construction, this emblematic Renaissance building has not yet revealed all its secrets.

The tower looms over the old town centre.
The 52m tower has overlooked the town of Loches for half a millenium. Usually open 2 days a year, for the Journées du Patrimoine, it offers a unique panorama from the top. To get there you have to open a heavy wooden door, then puff and pant your way up the 143 dusty, narrow steps. But once you get there the story of Loches is laid out before you, in slate and terracotta.

 The tower from the flower market.
One of the mysteries yet to be solved is the tower's original function. It was erected in 1534. It's clearly a belltower, but was it for a church, was it an alarm, or did it cover both functions? The dual function seems unlikely given the competitiveness between the church and the municipal power during the 16th century. There was a chapel at the foot of the tower, but the motifs which adorn the tower are secular, relating to the municipality, such as the fish which are a symbol of the town of Loches.

The tower photographed from the Logis Royal.
If you want to visit the Tour Saint Antoine it will be open this year during the European Heritage Weekend 19-20 September.
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Our big Patrimoine day will be spent stuck in a traffic jam in Ste Maure de Touraine with some friends.
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Au jardin hier: With the very windy and squally weather we've been having it was time to ramp up the apple harvest. Yesterday I stripped the Melville, which is our second largest and most productive apple. The mystery Ballerina, the mystery cream and pink crisp apple and the Jonagored had all more or less been stripped by the wind so I picked up the useable ones. The few Granny Smiths that didn't drop in the dry are hanging on grimly and I've left them. The Reine de Reinettes need stripping but I've already picked lots of them so they are a lower priority. The Golden Delicious and the Canada Gris need to be picked but I didn't have the space or the time yesterday. The problem with the wild gusty wind is not that the apples fall off and get damaged -- the grass underneath the trees is soft and cushioning and so long as they are picked up within a day of falling they are fine. But if they stay on the tree they get damaged by being whipped around and hitting twigs and branches. At home the apples have been sorted into three categories: perfect ones for the fruit bowl; small and/or misshapen for things like jelly where no peeling or coring is required; and cookers for desserts. I left a lot of the 'small and misshapen' ones down at the orchard, so the 'cookers for desserts' is by far the largest quantity stored in the pantry waiting to be processed. Tarte Tatin is next on the list I think.

The Black Hamburg grapevine has suffered some damage in the wind, with one section coming loose from its trellis and some bunches dropping to the ground. They are ripe enough to pick but not at their peak yet so I just picked a few bunches.

I picked a few blackberries and immersed them in strong liquor (home distilled by friends of friends). This is the beginning of making a small batch of blackberry liqueur.

Monday, 14 September 2015

Milan's Drawing Room

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is a grand 19th century shopping mall right in the centre of Milan. Its principal glass roofed 4 storey arcade covers the street connecting La Scala to the Duomo. The building was opened in 1877.

The structure forms a cross with a dome at its centre. In appearance it's a bit like the Burlington Arcade in London, but greatly enlarged. The term 'galleria' for this type of shopping mall was coined for this building and became associated with this new style of shopping so that subsequent projects in other cities around the world also became 'galeries'.

Looking along the La Scala / Duomo axis towards the Piazza del Duomo.
The building's nickname is 'the drawing room of Milan' because of its popularity as a venue for promenading, to see and be seen. One doesn't have to spend any money in the fancy shops, but if one wants a treat, there are numerous cafés where one can stop for a drink and a gelato. Some of the oldest shops and restaurants in Milan occupy space in the Galleria.

Looking along the axis at right angles to the previous one.
The City of Milan owns the building and the tenants are all luxury goods vendors, selling jewellry, books, works of art and of course, designer fashion.

The accessories store Vigano caught my eye as we walked past.
The family owned and run Vigano specialises in glass bead costume jewellry and beaded fashion trims.

The Galleria photographed from a first floor café on the other side of Piazza del Duomo.

Sunday, 13 September 2015

Wild Roadside Grevillea

A lovely Grevillea sp growing wild by the side of the road in the Northern Territory.
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A la cuisine hier: Chocolate Pear Cream Pots, with local raw cultured cream and homegrown pears cooked in white wine from Quincy. Served in little ceramic yoghurt pots with a sponge finger. You don't need much.
Smoked herring, puréed and mixed with cream cheese and chopped parsley to make a delicious spread for wraps, sandwiches or tartines.
Grilled beef rib with a tian of ratatouille vegetables. I was going to make regular ratatouille but Ken's blog gave me a better idea.

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Loire Valley Nature: A new entry for Peach-leaved Bellflower Campanula persicifolia has been added. This lovely flower is rarely seen in the wild although you may be familiar with it in the garden.

Saturday, 12 September 2015

Marguerite de Valois, Queen of Navarre and France

Marguerite de Valois, also known as Margaret of France and in literature and film usually as La Reine Margot, was the youngest surviving child of Catherine de Medicis and Henri II of France. She was born, like a number of other French royal babies, in the Chateau of Saint Germain en Laye, near Paris, in 1553. She would be the last member of the Valois family and the end of a royal line.

Daughter of a king, married to another, with three of her brothers becoming King of France and a sister Queen of Spain her life seems impossibly glamorous. It was certainly high profile, but she was more interested in parties than politics. Growing up in the notoriously licentious French court of the second half of the 16th century, she was a fashionista known for her sense of style. She was also known for her many lovers, from all levels of society. As far as her family and spouse were concerned she was a loose cannon. Her mother lectured her endlessly in an attempt to get her to behave appropriately, her brother imprisoned her to keep her from causing him trouble and her husband did the same.

 Portrait of Marguerite in the Chateau of Blois,
 after a sketch by François Clouet of her at the age of 20.
Whilst languishing under house arrest in the Chateau of Usson in the wilds of the Auvergne she kept herself busy by writing a highly personal and candid account of her life. It's available here, translated into English. Her memoir is a jolly good read if you have the time. It was published about ten years after her death and scandalised the nation.

Although Marguerite's personal choice at the time would have been the handsome and charismatic Henri, Duc de Guise, leader of the Catholic faction in the Wars of Religion, she was married off to Henri de Navarre, the handsome and charismatic leader of the Protestant faction. Henri de Navarre came from the Bourbon branch of the extensive royal family and it was hoped that the marriage would both unite the two sides of the family, as well as bring Catholic and Protestant unity.

The wedding certainly brought Catholics and Protestants together, but not in the way her mother Catherine had hoped. Instead, just days after the wedding, with dozens of leading Protestants in Paris for the event, Marguerite's brother Charles IX engineered a massacre on Saint Bartholomew's Day. Marguerite showed her independent spirit by sheltering a number of prominent Protestants, including her new husband, in her chambers, and refusing to allow Catholic assassins entry, thereby saving their lives.

Despite the viscissitudes of their situation Marguerite and Henri de Navarre remained on surprisingly good terms all their lives, but their marriage was not a success. They quarrelled openly and often, and both took lovers, also openly and often. Henri ultimately became king, after Marguerite's last surviving brother was assassinated in 1589. Marguerite was queen, but still kept under house arrest. Henri converted to Catholicism four years into his reign in a pragmatic move to calm the kingdom down, and several years later divorced Marguerite on the grounds that she was barren. She was allowed to keep the title of Queen, and moved back to Paris, becoming a patron of the arts and involving herself in good works.

One of the few of Catherine de Medicis and Henri II's children to have a robust constitution, she died in Paris, a few weeks before her 62nd birthday in 1615.

For more portraits of Marguerite de Valois see the wonderful blog Les Derniers Valois
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Loire Valley Nature: The entry for Identify Your Orchid has been updated with some photos of orchid rosettes in the winter.
An entry has been added for the tricky to identify dragonfly the Moustached Darter Sypetrum vulgatum.
A photo has been added to the entry for Pyramidal Orchid Anacamptis pyramidalis. This orchid can form large and impressive colonies in quite unlikely places, such as motorway banks and roundabouts.
A photo has been added to the Monkey Orchid Orchis simia entry. Check out the caterpillar!
A photo of a male European Orchard Bee Osmia cornuta staking out a nest hole in the hopes of meeting a newly emerging female has been added to the entry on Megachilidae bees.
A section for Arable has been added to the entry for Agricultural Land.
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A la cuisine hier: A small batch of stewed greengages (Fr. reines-claudes) and a medium batch each of stewed peaches (of the sort known in French as pêches de vigne) and apples. Each batch is about 20 fruits. The greengages came from the market, the peaches from the Aged Orchard Neighbour and the apples are our own, several different varieties. I sweetened the greengages and the peaches, but not the apples.
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Au jardin hier: The autumn mowing programme has begun. I've done the potager and about a sixth of the orchard. It's fairly rough, but you can mostly see where I've been. I also picked up a big bucket of pine cones, which will be added to the kindling material for the wood stove over winter. On my return home I was careful to follow Ken and Sheila's advice about how to deal with harvest mites.

Friday, 11 September 2015

Cyclamens at Pouplouroux

We like to post photos of one of the many magnificent displays of cyclamen flowering in the autumn in the Touraine every year. This year the featured flower carpet belongs to our friends Yvonne and Edouard, who live over in Pouplouroux on the other side of the Claise to us. Pouplouroux is a sort of suburb of Preuilly, on the hill as you come into town from La Roche Posay or Yzeures sur Creuse.



In the course of our conversation when we visited on Wednesday Yvonne revealed that she had seen two wallabies in a field between Yzeures and Preuilly not long ago. It's a field where she often sees deer as she drives by, so the green pick must be good. My guess is they are escapees from La Haute Touche, the National Museum of Natural History's captive breeding facility which is not far away. Apparently there is a mob of wallabies in the forest at Rambouillet near Paris she tells us (this newspaper article in English confirms the story).
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Harvest Mites: The photos you see above came at some personal cost. We are both covered in harvest mites (Fr. aoûtats, known as chiggers in America). These microscopic mites clamber up their host from the ground and bury themselves in the skin making the itchiest welts ever. I have 'bites' behind both knees, around the line of my underpants leg elastic, on my shoulders where my bra strap crosses and worst of all, a more or less complete line under my breasts and circumnavigating my body along the line of my bra. I also have them on my scalp. I've never had them on my scalp before. Simon is suffering just as badly. There is nothing that I know of that you can do about them. The anti-histamine cream Onctose helps a bit, but briefly. I only hope that Yvonne did not catch any as that would be miserable for her. She wasn't crawling around on the ground doing arty shots though so she might have escaped.
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A la cuisine hier: Two rustic apple tarts, one for now, one for the freezer. I've never got the hang of traditional double crust apple pie, but this is an excellent easy substitute.

Thursday, 10 September 2015

Another Batesian Beauty

In June Tim and I spotted a large winged brown and yellow insect sitting quietly on a nettle leaf along his millstream. Hornet Vespa crabro! But no, not quite right. Must be a Volucella sp hover fly, which are hornet mimics. Wrong again! Closer inspection revealed four wings, so it had to be hymenopteran (a wasp, bee, ant or sawfly). Neither of us had ever seen anything like it before, but our money was on sawfly, and female. And so it proved to be.

Looking in Chinery revealed some members of the family Cimbicidae which looked similar but not close enough to be our beast. A little digging on the internet and some time learning how to distinguish two very similar species and we had a proper name.

She is a Large Alder Sawfly Cimbex connatus. This is by far the biggest sawfly I've ever seen. The species is found around alder Alnus spp trees, and perhaps hawthorn, in the summertime. The green caterpillar like larvae, which grow to 50 mm (that's really big for a sawfly!) eat the leaves of alder trees. There are plenty of those along the river at Tim's place, so it was in the right place at the right time.

Sawflies, unlike their hymenopteran brethren in other groups, have no weaponry to defend themselves -- no stings, no powerful jaws, no squirty acid. Thus, they often rely on camouflage or deception to stay out of harms way.

This species shows the typically deeply furrowed thorax of a sawfly. Cimbex spp also have clubbed antennae (which tell you that it is not the hornet it is mimicking) and a creamy white first abdominal segment. C. connatus has a dark underside, a dark dorsal line down the abdomen (not always very marked), and a downy scutellum.

Adult Large Alder Sawflies are not commonly encountered although they are probably not really rare in France. 
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Loire Valley Nature: A photo has been added to the Lady Orchid Orchis purpurea entry. This is a closeup of newly opened flowers, showing the 'lady in a crinoline' form.
An entry has been added for Lesser Celandine Ranunculus ficaria. These glossy yellow flowers are amongst the earliest to flower in spring and are always a welcome sight.
A photo has been added to the Large Blue Maculinea arion entry showing the butterfly on the larval host plant Wild Oregano.
A photo has been added to the Narrow-leafed Helleborine Cephalanthera longifolia entry, clearly showing the yellow 'throat'.
A new entry has been added for Crescent-cup Liverwort Lunularia cruciata, a very common and easy to identify bryophyte.
A new entry has been added for Map Araschinia levana. This attractive little butterfly was particularly abundant this year.
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A la cuisine hier: 5 jars of blackberry and apple jelly, from homegrown and wild foraged produce (well, the sugar came from the supermarket, but the fruit from our orchard and rural tracks surrounding Preuilly).
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Winter Preparations: It's that time of year already. Yesterday Pascal came to sweep the chimney. I've cleaned out the garage and had 3 stères of wood delivered and I've been sorting out kindling from fallen branches and prunings in the orchard.

Wednesday, 9 September 2015

Removing Water Primrose from the Cher

Since last Wednesday an Agglo Tours boat has been pulling out Water Primrose Ludwigia spp (Fr. jussie) along a 4 kilometre stretch of the river Cher. The work is being done in conjuction with the Anglers Federation. (Agglo Tours is a local authority for the city of Tours and surrounding communities, officially known as Tour(s)plus these days)

Water Primrose on the banks of the Vienne between the road and rail bridge at Chinon.
Viewed from the foot bridge it's like watching an abundant harvest being brought in. It's a result of the exponential growth of this North American invasive alien aquatic plant in the last few years. It is now preventing native plants from growing. In 2010 the Anglers Federation sounded the alarm with a report to the Prefecture (the equivalent of County or Shire). The Prefecture acknowledged the situation but did nothing with the data provided. Finally it was the Agglo that intervened, first under their climate change policy and then applying the EU Freshwater Directive. Last year the Agglo bought a boat and barge for €180 000. This year the equipment is being used to gather up the Water Primrose at 7 locations along the river between the weir at Savonnières and the railway bridge at Tours. The locations are those frequented by anglers or riverside residents. The 4 towns on this stretch of river are Savonnières, Ballan-Miré, Joué-lès-Tours and Tours. The Water Primrose will be disposed of at the municipal composting station at Chanceaux sur Choisille.

 Water Primrose, making an impenetrable mat for animals and native plants.
The Anglers Federation is totally behind the eradication of this weed and there is no question that there is a need for the intervention to control it. Volunteer members work on the bankside to pull the plant out by hand then it is loaded onto the boat which ferries it out to the barge. The Anglers Federation have given €60 000 to the project. They note that nearly 60% of the river bank has been invaded by the plant. They recognised that the state would have had difficulty managing the task alone, both financially and in terms of other resources such as labour, so they have taken on some of the responibility. They have previously dealt with 7 kilometres worth of riverbank in 10 communities, where 80 tonnes of Water Primrose have been removed.

The Anglers Federation hope that by setting an example they will encourage other organisations with a vested interest in the river to join in the programme of destruction. They say they will only stop once the plant is beaten, but as it grows and multiplies all the time they look to be in it for the long haul.

There is an article in the local newspaper about this project. It's in French of course, but worth looking at for the pictures even if you don't read French.
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Loire Valley Nature: A photo of Ivy Broomrape Orobanche hederae has been added to the Broomrape Orobanche spp entry. This is a confirmed identification for a species in a difficult group.
A photo of a hypochromatic Bee Orchid Ophrys apifera has been added to the entry for this species. The flowers are white and yellowy green because they have a mutation which has caused the pink pigment to be missing.
An entry for Identifying and Surveying Mosses and Lichens has been started. This will be added to over time.
A photo of Honey Bees foraging in a sunflower crop has been added to the Eurasian Honey Bee Apis mellifera entry.
A photo of the striking red and black flower longhorn beetle Stictoleptura cordigera on Wild Parsnip has been added to the entry for the beetle species. These are reasonably large beetles and with their black heart shape on red background pattern I usually can't resist photographing them.
A photo of the pale and pretty Heath Spotted Orchid Dactylorhiza maculata subsp. ericetorum has been added to the entry for this species.  These orchids are not all that common here as they don't like limestone or chalk.
An entry has been added for Yellow Brain Fungus Tremella mesenterica. This jelly fungus doesn't look much like a brain, but it does look like yellow jelly.

Tuesday, 8 September 2015

A Medieval Window Restoration

This exceptionally well restored medieval window is in a house in Le Grand Pressigny. I love everything about it -- the stone mullion, the little faces carved into the subtle ogee lintels, the small panes of leaded glass, and above all the superb shutters with all their careful detail.
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A la cuisine hier: I cooked up a few apples and hung them to drain through the jelly bag. The resulting liquid will be combined with the same from some blackberries from a few days ago for blackberry and apple jelly. I also poached some little homegrown pears in white wine and sugar in preparation for making a pear and chocolate mousse.

Dinner was pork chops served with sautéed zucchini, steamed cauliflower, baby carrots and blue cheese sauce. Followed by roasted caramel peaches with (shop bought) vanilla icecream.
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Au jardin hier: I had the pleasure of Antoine Chaboisson's company yesterday in the orchard. He's the local tree surgeon and I had asked him to visit to inspect the trees and advise on any work that he could do. He said not too much needed doing, just une toilette as he put it. We discussed the fact that some of the trees are struggling (pears, plums and yellow peaches especially) and he reckons it's lack of water. He thinks that because of the slope and the composition of the soil the orchard is extremely free draining. The trees don't get a chance to suck up enough water in dry spells. He advocates 1. cutting back the main trunk of certain trees and allowing a vigorous new shoot from the base to take over as the main trunk; 2. planting a mixed wild hedge around the boundary; 3. concentrating on the trees that do well ie work with what nature has given me. The trees, which are about 20 years old, are reacting to a period between 2003 and 2013 when annual rainfall was always in deficit. He says they will have enormous spreading root systems and cutting them back will be better than planting a new tree with a small root system. I will lose the crops for a few years, but gain in the long run. He's not the first to suggest a hedge and it wouldn't cost anything. It's a simple enough matter of digging up volunteers and planting them in more suitable places. He says the more varied the species the better and the aim is to create a windbreak, that will lead to a microclimate within the orchard that will retain more moisture. The hedge would also be a biodiversity sink. According to him people greatly underestimate the ecological value of a hedge such as this.

Antoine munched his way through a windfall apple as we talked, and later we checked the grapes for ripeness. They are ripe enough to begin picking, but will improve.
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Loire Valley Nature: A new entry has been added for the rare Ground-pine Ajuga chamaepitys, found occasionally in the Touraine on hot dry almost soiless limestone slopes.
A section for Violet Ground Beetle Carabus violaceus has been added to the Ground Beetle Carabidae entry. These big slug eating beetles are the gardeners friend both as adults and larvae.
Photos have been added to the Greater Butterfly Orchid Platanthera chlorantha entry. This common orchid is easy to see in the Touraine, often growing on roadsides.

Monday, 7 September 2015

Bruce

Bruce belongs to Ramon, the son of our Milanese friend Stefania. He isn't yet a year old and was rescued by Ramon as a puppy. He was found locked in an abandoned car in Rome when just a football sized ball of white fluff.

He's probably a Maremma, a breed of dog used for centuries in the mountains of Tuscany to protect sheep from wolves. It seems likely that Louis XV owned a number of these dogs, imported from Abruzzo to hunt wolves in France in the 18th century.

Mostly Bruce appears none the worse for his early bad experience and is a friendly and cheerful character. He doesn't have any really bad habits, but Stefania says he appears to be frightened of men in suits and ties and reacts by aggressively barking at them.
Like most Italian Bruces (we have been told), he is named after Springsteen, not Lee or Willis.

Earlier I had been intrigued to notice that the young male conductor on our train over the Alps was wearing a name badge that said 'Bruce'. He was clearly French, and I double checked the name badge. I wouldn't have been surprised if his name had been Brice, but I've never met a French Bruce before. I didn't like to quiz him about his name though.

Sunday, 6 September 2015

A Serpent Gourd

At the time of photographing this pretty frilly white flower with its vine-like leaves on the top of the cliffs above the Katherine River in the Northern Territory I was told it was Stinking Passion Fruit Passiflora foetida, but it clearly isn't. It took me quite a while to identify it, and it involved switching Google to .au rather than .uk, which is our default. It's amazing how much difference 'switching countries' makes to internet searches. Hurrah for the Top End Native Plant Society website, which enabled me to identify this plant just by scrolling through their gallery of white star shaped flowers.

The plant is Trichosanthes holtzei, no English name although keen native plant gardeners in the Top End seem to grow it. Trichosanthes spp from other parts of the world are generally known as serpent gourds. It's a member of the curcurbit family. Perhaps the confusion about the identity in the field arose because Trichosanthes holtzei leaves apparently have an unpleasant odour when crushed. It is endemic to the Northern Territory, Cape York Pennisula and North East Queensland, growing in vine thicket, monsoon forest and drier, seasonal rain forest.
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A la cuisine hier: Simon made a big batch of tomato sauce. We didn't grow the ingredients. The tomatoes came from friends of friends and the zucchini came from Tim and Pauline. The FoFs also gave us peaches, a cucumber and some beans (not green but the sort you let mature and pod, then cook just the fresh seed). T&P had given us in addition some superb green beans, but they've been eaten now.

I cooked up another batch of apple jelly, 8 more jars for the pantry.
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Orchid News: The last orchid species of the season has responded to the recent rain and popped up to flower. A close inspection of John and Alice's lawn revealed 3 little Autumn Ladies Tresses Spiranthes spiralis flower spikes. Not many, only about a tenth of the orchids in this colony, but more may appear yet.

Saturday, 5 September 2015

Caterina de' Medici

Caterina de' Medici was born in Florence in April 1519, the only child of Lorenzo II de' Medici and his French wife Madeleine de la Tour d'Auvergne. Although the de' Medici family ruled Florence and Caterina was a direct descendent of Lorenzo the Magnificent, her father was not a titled aristocrat until his uncle, Pope Leo X, gave him the lifetime title of Duke of Urbino.  

 A portrait medallion of Catherine at the age of 35, Chateau of Chenonceau.
According to a contemporary chronicler, her parents were as pleased with her as if she had been a boy when she was born. But within weeks both her parents were dead. Her mother probably died of that great killer of childbearing women, puerperal fever, her father of syphilis. The couple had only been married for a year. The ceremony had been at Amboise and very much had the blessing of the French King, François I. Florence as an ally was all part of his machinations against the Habsburgs, who encircled France with their empire. When Caterina was orphaned he wanted to bring her to France but the Pope placed her with her Florentine grandmother.

In 1527 her family's enemies seized Florence and she was placed in the care of a series of convents, essentially as a hostage. As the conflict over Florence escalated she was very lucky to escape being murdered. Finally, a deal was struck and she was sent to her uncle in Rome, Pope Clement VII. She was 11 years old and it was time to find her a husband. Suitors popped up from all over, but the winner was François I's proposal of his second son, Henri, Duc d'Orléans. The marriage took place in Marseille in 1533. Catherine, as she must now be called, was described as small and thin (to the point of looking malnourished), not pretty and with the characeristic Medici slightly protruberant eyes. Later, as a mature woman, she would be described as imposing, with a shapely and magnificently dressed figure and exquisite hands and feet. Later still, she had put on a lot of weight, and being very short (under 5'), it was very noticeable. Her double chin features in many later portraits.

 Enamel triptych of Catherine at prayer, from the 1560s, Chateau of Blois.
The 14 year old newly weds survived the indignity of François witnessing the consummation of their marriage and cracking jokes about it afterwards. However, it was very soon clear that Catherine was not to Henri's taste, and he rarely spent any time with her. Instead he took mistresses and 18 months after their marriage he was involved with Catherine's much older second cousin, Diane de Poitiers, who would remain his mistress for the rest of his life. To add to Catherine's discomfit, Uncle Clement died and the new Pope failed to deliver her dowry. Father-in-law François was most put out.

For the first 10 years of Catherine and Henri's marriage there were no children. Henri never went near Catherine, so it is hardly surprising. Initially it wasn't too much of a problem, but when Henri's older brother, the Dauphin François died, Henri became the heir to the throne. Without a 'spare', those around the King started to get edgy. Henri was clearly fertile. One of his early mistresses had produced a child. As usual in these situations, talk began to grow of annulling the marriage on the grounds that Catherine was barren. Fortunately for Catherine, she became pregnant in the nick of time.

 Funerary monument depicting Catherine in her coronation robes, Basilica of Saint Denis.
Henri had been coaxed into doing his duty a little more often and Catherine proved to be extremely fecund. After the first baby (a boy, no doubt to everyone's relief) she could look forward to a pregnancy every year or two until Henri's untimely death. No doubt the ease with which it turned out that she conceived was a relief to Henri too. In the end she had at least 9 pregnancies and ten children, seven of whom made it beyond infancy. She would outlive all but two of them.

François I died in 1547 and Henri and Catherine duly became King and Queen of France. It is clear that right from their wedding day Catherine had wished for a more intimate relationship with Henri. She was a capable and intelligent woman, but he simply sidelined her to a nominal role. The place she wanted in his life was occupied by Diane de Poitiers and he had no qualms about letting the whole world know it.

 Portrait of the widowed Catherine, Chateau of Blois.
When their eldest daughter Elisabeth was 13 she was betrothed to Phillip II, King of Spain. Much feasting and celebratory jousting ensued. The King insisted on participating, despite having complained of dizziness earlier in the day. Gabriel de Lorge, Comte de Montgomery, a capitain in Henri's personal bodyguard known as the Garde Ecossaise (Scots Guard) nearly unseated him in one round and he insisted on a re-match. This time Montgomery's lance caught him on the helmet and splintered. A piece of 'goodish size' as an eyewitness termed it penetrated his visor and went into his eye. He died 10 days later, leaving Catherine the widowed mother of a new teenaged king.

With Henri's death Catherine at last came out of the shadows and into the centre of the political limelight. Initially too shocked and consumed with grief to effectively act as regent she allowed the Guise brothers, the uncles of the new Queen, Mary of Scotland, to take control. The young King was technically an adult and could have reigned independently, but he had never been in robust health and was considered too delicate for the task.

 Catherine as a corpse, depicted on her funerary monument in Saint Denis.
As soon as Catherine had recovered sufficiently to act decisively, she took her revenge on Diane de Poitiers. Catherine ensured that Diane returned royal jewellry and was forced to exchange the Chateau of Chenonceau for the Chateau of Chaumont. Diane, who was nearly 20 years older than Henri, was by this time an elderly lady. She simply retired to her private chateau and very sensibly lived quietly after Henri's death.

For the next thirty years Catherine worked tirelessly to ensure that her boys retained power. One after another her sons came to the throne but died young and childless. The Wars of Religion raged. She married her youngest daughter Marguerite to the leader of the Protestants, Henri de Navarre, in the hopes it would bring the two sides together. Instead by bringing Protestants and Catholics together in Paris for the wedding it inflamed the situation. Violence between the two sides escalated out of control and several days after the wedding Protestants were massacred at the orders of Charles IX, her second son. Catherine herself must have been a party to the decision and the Saint Bartholomew's Day Massacre has played a great part in her reputation as a ruthless, untrustworthy and downright evil disciple of Machiavelli. At the same time Henri de Navarre's staunchly Protestant mother, who had reluctantly come to Paris for the wedding, took ill and died suddenly. This is the beginnings of stories of Catherine as a scheming Italian poisoner, but the reality is that she worked to keep France stable and she was prepared to negotiate almost any compromise to keep a lid on the civil war. She was considerably more politically savvy than her last two surviving sons, Henri III and François, Duc d'Anjou, who between them nearly lost the kingdom on several occasions.

 Catherine de Medicis and Henri II, effigies in coronation robes at Saint Denis.
In the end, all her efforts came to nothing and when she died in 1589, her son Henri had just had the powerful and popular Catholic Duc de Guise assassinated and she was estranged from her daughter Marguerite. All her other children were dead. She knew her son's foolish actions would have disasterous consequences and that the Valois family would lose the throne.

Curiously, it is Henri IV, the incoming Bourbon king and her son-in-law, who best recognises her intelligence and tenacity in truly frightening times. He is reported by Brantôme as saying:
I ask you, what could a woman do, left by the death of her husband with five little children on her arms, and two families of France who were thinking of grasping the crown—our own [the Bourbons] and the Guises? Was she not compelled to play strange parts to deceive first one and then the other, in order to guard, as she did, her sons, who successively reigned through the wise conduct of that shrewd woman? I am surprised that she never did worse.
For more portraits of Catherine de' Medici see the wonderful blog Les Derniers Valois.

Friday, 4 September 2015

Buckwheat

Buckwheat is an annual grown for its seeds and as a green manure. In France buckwheat is called sarrasin or blé noir. It is not a wheat at all, not even related and so is gluten free. However recently it has emerged that some people can have a severe allergic reaction to buckwheat and go into anaphyllactic shock.

The plant is native to Sichuan in China, where it was domesticated. It arrived in France in the 14th century. The leaves are heart-shaped and the flowers pale pink. The seeds are highly nutritious and rich in protein.

 Buckwheat grown as a cover crop between Le Petit Pressigny and Le Grand Pressigny
Once widely cultivated on poor soils in France, especially in areas like the Auvergne and Brittany, it had almost disappeared as a crop. But now it is staging a modest comeback.

It's sown from May to July (or even August if it is an inter-crop cover), to avoid frost and is harvested from mid-September to mid-October. It's not an easy crop to harvest for seed as they don't all mature at the same time. A lot of seed is lost as a result. In the 19th century 700 000 ha were under buckwheat in France annually. The soil it grew in was deficient in copper, making it impossible to grow anything else except rye. By the mid-1960s and the widespread use of artificial fertilizers to make up the deficits of trace elements, buckwheat and rye had been replaced with the more profitable wheat, barley and maize. Currently there is about 30 000 ha planted with buckwheat annually. It has become popular with those practicing sustainable agriculture as when used as a cover crop, especially between main crops, it can function to replace phosphorus in the soil. Despite being in the top ten buckwheat producers France is a net importer of the grain. The price per tonne is around €470.

Buckwheat honey from a local apiarist.
In France the most famous dish using buckwheat is the galette, a thin savoury pancake. It is also popular with beekeepers, who will sometimes plant a patch just for the bees to make miel de sarrasin. The honey they produce is dark and strong and much admired by connoisseurs.

Thursday, 3 September 2015

A Batesian Beetle

The other day I was in our garage. There is a bucket half full of sand in the garage, left over from mixing up potting mix. I happened to glance into it and noticed a black and yellow stripey insect, obviously dead but in good condition, just laying on top of the sand. Aha I thought. A wasp. My interest was piqued because it clearly wasn't a regular wasp. I picked it up and discovered it wasn't a wasp at all.

The creature turned out to be Plagionotus arcuatus, a type of longhorn beetle Cerambycidae. The species doesn't have an English name but in French it is called le Clyte arqué. 'Clyte' refers to the particular taxinomic tribe of longhorns it belongs (Clytini) to and 'arqué' means bowed or arched, clearly a reference to the shape of the yellow markings.

The beetles can be anything from 8 to 20 mm in length. Mine is at the larger end of the scale, measuring 17 mm long. It is lustrous black with bright yellow spots and stripes. The legs and antennae are orangey brown. Apparently they like to hang out in the sunshine on dead oak and beech. Even dead their colouring makes them look like wasps, but to add to the effect in life they move like Vespula spp wasps. This is known as Batesian Mimicry, where a harmless species evolves the characteristics of a dangerous species when both have a common predator. The idea being that the predator thinks twice about attacking the harmless species, giving it the opportunity to escape. This phenomena is named after the 19th century English naturalist Henry Walter Bates, who described the process from observations made in Brazil.

The larvae eat the wood of freshly cut oak and beech, so I assume my beetle emerged from our firewood. The adults can be seen in France from May to August. The species was evaluated in 2010 for the IUCN European Red Lists, but is not considered at risk (listed as 'least concern').


Wednesday, 2 September 2015

A Special Day

Monday was a special day for me: for the first time we used both Célestine and Claudette for work.

It was a great opportunity for me to be reminded what owning two classic cars actually looks like - because we usually have one at home and one in the garage near Tours my mind is usually more occupied with matters of logistics rather than aesthetics.

Unfortunately I was unable to take a photo of a epic view I glimpsed - the view of Célestine in Claudette's rear view mirror, driving in bright sunlight away from a extremely threatening storm cloud -  so instead, a photo of the two ladies at repose in Chenonceau's car park.

Tuesday, 1 September 2015

Decision Time

Last Sunday was the last day of swimming for the year - the pool will now be shut until June 2016. This is one of the notable dates of the year, along with lighting the fire for the first time, the first BBQ, and the flights of the cranes.

This year my thoughts have turned to retirement - not for me, but for my beach towel. I know where I bought my beach towel (Queen Victoria Market, Melbourne), and because I have only been to Melbourne for any length of time once and I know what else was happening that day, I also know when it was.

This is what was happening that day, so I know I have had my beach towel for over 30 years. That is more an indication of how often I care to visit the beach - I wouldn't be surprised if the towel has never seen the sea - than anything else.

Still - a bloke needs a beach towel even if he doesn't do beaches except from a bar with a view, so I may have to see what else is living in my wallet besides moths.

Monday, 31 August 2015

Travelling around Milan

Milan isn't a big city - or at least the bit most people are interested in isn't terribly large. The Roman walls enclosed an area of about 215 acres (87 hectares), and most of the sights you are likely to visit would have been inside the Roman walls or immediately outside them. This means that most of the time you will be most concerned with getting to and from the middle of town, because once you're there, just about eveything is walkable.

There is a wide range of transport available: trams, trains, metro, buses, trolleybuses, bike and car hire. We used the trams, mainly because two lines ran right past the front of our apartment: one to the middle of town, and the other to the Castello Sforzesco (Sforza Castle), the main metropolitan museum. The other reason we used the trams is that although they are slower than metro travel, you can actually see something of the area you are travelling through. And we like trams. (We also like trolleybuses, but they never seemed to be travelling somewhere we wanted to go, being run mainly on the city ring road).

You may have noticed that some of the trams look old. These aren't museum pieces trotted out for a special day, but Type 1928 trams (named for the year they were introduced) in regular service on half a dozen lines. Line 2 (the tramline from our apartment to the Sforza Castle) is run entirely with these old trams. Not fast or especially comfortable, but full of character.

There are also modern trams
(in a not so modern setting)
Using the public transport is simple - buy a ticket at a tobacconnist or a ticket machine, which gives you 90 minutes on the bus/tram network, or 1 ride on a train. All at 1€50 per ticket, or 13€80 for 10 rides (they call it a carnet, but it's just one ticket you repeatedly stamp). There is also a 1 day pass for 4€50, ideal for those days when you're buzzing backwards and forwards doing organising stuff. To ride a tram or bus, stamp your ticket in the machine when you board the first vehicle, and as long as you get on the last vehicle of your trip before the expiration of 90 minutes, you don't need to stamp it again. For the metro, you use the ticket in a turnstile to access the platform.

We were particularly taken by how comprehensive the transport system is - and how inexpensive. The longest we had to wait for a metro was 4 minutes, and a tram 6 minutes. Truly excellent.

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Weather News:

Yup - it's that confused. This screenshot was taken yesterday lunchtime.

Sunday, 30 August 2015

Katherine River Valley

Somewhere down in all those trees is a large river. Three weeks before this photo was taken the river flooded and rose 19 metres, causing a state of emergency to be declared by the Northern Territory government. The river and the spectacular gorge it has created form an important tourist attraction in this isolated area. The Northern Territory Tourist Office bill it, with considerable justification, as 'where the outback meets the tropics'. Aboriginal culture and heritage, outdoor activities, especially kayaking, and wildlife watching feature heavily on the agenda if you visit this area.
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A la cuisine hier: I had a litre and a half of aging raw milk kicking about so I decided I needed to make some sauces. First I made custard, which promptly curdled (grrr!) then I used the rest for a blue cheese sauce. The blue cheese in question was a Stilton with a best before date of 1 June. It was perfectly fine in sauce. 

Also on the list of things that needed using was half a punnet of tiny teardrop shaped tomatoes from one of our local producers. I decided to tweak Jean's recipe for stuffed zucchini, and made smoked salmon and blue cheese stuffed zucchini. The zukes turned out well, even Simon voted them OK (although he was careful not to sound too encouraging in case I am tempted to make stuffed zucchini again...). If I do make something like this again I will use tuna. Smoked salmon is wasted in this with the blue cheese.

Also taking up a great deal of space in the pantry are trays of apples. You'd never know I'd picked any if you look at the trees in the orchard, but I have hundreds of apples in the pantry. So yesterday I made two big spiced apple and rhubarb crumbles and boiled up a ten litre pot of apples for jelly. They are currently sitting in the jelly bag to extract the liquid.

Saturday, 29 August 2015

Mary I of Scotland, Queen Consort of France

Mary Stuart, or Mary Queen of Scots as she is more widely known, was born in Scotland in December 1542. Her father was James V of Scotland and her mother Marie de Guise, a member of a powerful French Catholic family. Within six days of her birth she was Queen of Scotland and her father dead.

A child on the throne is always a recipe for unrest, and in addition, civil war was brewing in Scotland just like it was in France, in the guise of the Reformation. Henri II was on the throne in France and just about keeping a lid on it. Henri suggested a betrothal between his infant heir and Mary, so when Mary was five years old her mother sent her to live with the French royal family. Marie de Guise felt the situation in Scotland was just too dangerous for little Mary to stay, but Marie herself stayed behind and ruled in Mary's sted as regent. 

Portrait medallion of François II and Mary, on display at the Chateau of Chenonceau.
On arrival in France Mary formed immediate friendships with the two oldest of Henri II and Catherine de Medici's children, the Princesse Elisabeth, later to become Queen of Spain, and the Dauphin François, her betrothed. Like the French royal children, Mary's education was put into the capable hands of the King's mistress, Diane de Poitiers and Mary became close to her too. The Chateau of Amboise served as the children's principal residence.

Mary grew into a lively and intelligent young woman. Her looks were striking as she was red-haired, pale skinned and extraordinarily tall. At 180cm (5'11") she towered over most people at court, including her husband to be, who was rather short. Average height for men at this time was 168cm (5'6") and average height for women 157cm (5'2").

She and François were married in May 1558. Secretly, Mary had signed an agreement that would have France control Scotland should she die childless. Later that year her second cousin, the Protestant Queen Elizabeth I ascended the throne of England. For Catholics, she was illegitimate, and Mary, the granddaughter of Henry VIII's sister, was the legitimate heir to the English throne. The plots were thickening. In July 1559 Henri II was killed in a jousting accident and François and Mary found themselves the teenaged king and queen of France. Her powerful uncles stepped in to control the tangled web of intrigue that was being woven all around Mary.

The Protestants increased their political agitating in both Scotland and France during 1559-60, culminating in France in what is known as the Tumult of Amboise. Huguenots planned to kidnap young François and arrest the Guises. Word of the plot reached the ears of the Guise brothers and they hastily moved the young king and queen from the Chateau of Blois to the Chateau of Amboise as it was easier to defend. The conspirators stormed the chateau but were defeated and well over a thousand Protestants executed and their bodies hung from the Chateau. It caused such a stench that the court decamped and Amboise never regained the status it had previously enjoyed.

 17th century copy of a François Clouet portrait of Mary in mourning, hanging in the Chateau of Blois. She wears white as it was the royal colour of mourning.
1560 was a year of unmitigated misery and trouble for Mary. After the Amboise conspiracy in March her mother died in June, then her husband in December. Left a childless widow at 17, with her mother-in-law, Catherine de Medici making it plain that she was no longer welcome in France, due to her close relationship with Diane de Poitiers, and Scotland at grave risk of being overrun by its southern neighbour England, Mary made the inevitable and fateful decision to return to her country of birth in 1561.

Well out of her depth politically now, and without the close presence of her uncles for protection and advice, nothing went right for her from this point onwards.

Friday, 28 August 2015

Max Ernst in Amboise

Although German born the surrealist artist Max Ernst lived most of his adult life in France. He produced the fountain on the Mail in Amboise in 1967. The creature on the top is known as the genie and is looking in the direction of Clos Lucé, the home of Leonardo da Vinci.

The sculpture was restored in 2014, a process that took longer than expected. When I photographed it in June 2015 the local authority was still engaged in landscaping and restoring the surroundings. Whilst the fountain was away an exhibition about Ernst was set up in a nearby church.
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A la cuisine hier: Ten jars of apple jelly, from windfalls after the big storm a couple of days ago. Also a batch of stewed apples and blackberries.

Thursday, 27 August 2015

Timanoix and Trappe Echourgnac

Trappists and Trappistines are monks and nuns of the Cistercian Order who follow the strict rule of Saint Benedict. Trappists are famous for restricting their speech to that which is strictly necessary (although not a vow of silence as many believe) and the wonderful artisanal products such as beer, liqueurs and cheese that they make.

A selection of cheeses set out for a tasting session at Les Fromages du Moulin.
Timanoix and Trappe Echourgnac are two unusual cheeses made by two Trappist monastic institutions, one monks in Morbihan (southern Brittany), the other nuns in the Périgord area of the Dordogne. The name Timanoix is derived from the name of the Abbey in Brittany, Timadeuc, and noix, the French word for walnut. Echourgnac is the name of the Abbey in the Dordogne.

The rind is washed and brown and the cheese has a distinct walnut aroma. It's a cow's milk cheese, quite soft and pale. The reason for the walnut aroma is that the solution used to wash the rind is a mixture of brine and a walnut liqueur from a Périgord distiller. There is no sensation of residual alcohol, it's more like the cheese has been wrapped in walnut leaves or rubbed with green walnuts. After aging for a couple of months the cheese is a perfect blend of walnut and mild creamy smooth dairy flavours.

Rodolphe talking about some Comté.
Timanoix is a 21st century cheese, created when the sisters of Echourgnac could no longer meet the demand for their walnut flavoured cheese. They offered their brother monks the opportunity to make the cheese and satisfy what was a growing niche market. Both religious houses use the cheese as a means of supporting their local dairy farmers, by buying their milk and working with them to improve the quality of the raw material and the value added product.

Timanoix.
I'd never heard of either cheese, but earlier this year cheese refiner Rodolphe le Meunier offered a Timanoix as part of a tasting session I had arranged for some clients. It's a cheese I will look out for and buy if I see it again.