Wednesday, 7 October 2009

Art 'n Lard II

I have a slightly better idea of what an Art and Lard festival is (thanks to Nic) than I had last time I mentioned it. A couple of events I particularly noticed are the "concours de tartes aux pommes" at 15heures and a Marché Gourmand. I am in a particularly noble frame of mind, so I am willing to make the sacrifice and experience an art and lard gourmand event on behalf of all those who can't make it for themselves.

Their publicity is pretty good; although the programme gives very little away, it is already available in all the shops in Preuilly sur Claise.

Simon

Tuesday, 6 October 2009

A Trip to Tours

We mentioned (about a month ago) that on our way to collect Célestine from her former home we stopped in Tours to exchange our UK driver's licences for French ones.

Last Thursday we received a letter from the prefecture (government administration office for our département) in Tours to say we could collect our licences, so yesterday morning found us on the 10.20 bus to Tours (a bargain at 1€50 each way, lest you should need reminding). We arrived at the prefecture at 12.15 and were served almost immediately. The lady behind the counter asked us to come back in a hour so she could type up the licences taking time not to make mistakes translating the information, and could we come back at 14h?

That suited us fine as it was lunchtime, and Tours has hundred of restaurants, all of which seem reasonably priced. We settled on a small Lebanese restaurant called la Bekaa in the rue Colbert. There we ate a really good 6 course mezze lunch for 9€ each, which to my way of thinking is a real bargain. We both like Middle Eastern food, and the hoummus here is really good - as were the lemon splashed chicken wings, the salad, and the falafel.

After lunch we wandered back to the prefecture, and lo and behold!! We both now have our French permis de conduire, and even better - it costs nothing and seems to last for ever! (Licences with expiry dates are being introduced soon though. Also, a word of warning if you are used to towing a large boat, caravan or horses - your ordinary (B) B category licence limits you to a coupled combination weighing no more than 3.5 tonnes. Permission to tow heavier loads will not be automatically transferred and you will have to do the French test to get category (E) B validated.)

A bargain day all around, including buying a pair of bio-cotton jeans, several shirts and some socks at C&A for under €50.

We will be posting more Tours photos later.

Simon

Monday, 5 October 2009

Clouds in the Sky!!

We are led to believe that it's going to rain today*. This would be a novelty for us, because apart from a 3 or 4 days in the 3rd week of September, the month was totally dry. The same apples to August, July and most of June as well.

On Saturday morning I glanced up at the sky as I was opening the shutters and thought "hmmm - clouds". Then I realised what it was I was looking at.

Contrary to what you might think, these are not planes out of Paris. We are 0°55′46″ east (and about 500km south) of London- and in this photo, north is just to the left of the larger tree right of centre.

Simon

*They're right. We woke up this morning and we had drizzle.

Sunday, 4 October 2009

Free French Classes in Preuilly

The Collège Gaston Defferre in Preuilly-sur-Claise runs French language evening classes for adults. They are free, being funded by our Région, Centre.

I popped over to the Collège administration office the other day to get the details of when the classes are held and how to register. They told me that the course is 4 months and lessons are once a week from 19.00 - 21.00, and will start in January or February. Advertisements will be posted in local supermarkets and bakers later in the year, but in the meantime, if you are interested, they encourage you to put your name down and they will get in touch with you closer to the time. The course will only go ahead if they have 10-12 people register.

Blue (or Southern) Hawker dragonfly (female)
Aeshna cyanea
L'Aeschne bleue
They expect to get a number of students who speak no French at all, but the classes are presumably flexible enough to cope with a variety of abilities. I conducted my enquiries entirely in French, and explained why I had arrived carefully cradling a dead dragonfly* in one hand. I was complimented on my level of French, but not discouraged from putting my name down for the classes. I did mention that what I really needed was the language skills to deal with Bâtiment de France architects, but when I said that the administrator laughed and said that even for French people that is a challenge.

Susan

*I found it in the street on the way there, and picked it up in order to take it home and photograph.

Saturday, 3 October 2009

Believing Your Eyes

An opportunity to show another photo of Célestine

It is very rare to find a view in France that isn't spoiled by power or telephone lines, which makes taking great photos difficult. Ofen you take what you hope to be a good photo before you see the power and/or phone lines. These days I am so used to seeing cables everywhere that I don't notice them until I come to prepare the photo for use.

I quite like the photo below, but the various posts and lines get in the way. I won't claim I didn't see them when I took the photo, but the brain seems to ignore them really sucessfully - until they appear in the photo.

Luckily, there is a solution. Of course, we have all known for years never to take a photo at face value, but if you know how to do it, technology has now made the process quicker and easier.

Talking of Célestine, she is still with the garage for about another week. The fuel tank has been drained, cleaned, treated and an epoxy lining applied. It takes about 8 days for the epoxy to go off, and then she can come home.

The garage looks awful big without her.

Simon

Thursday, 1 October 2009

Still Painting

I am painting the kitchen shutters this week.

These are a semi-louvered shutter, which I sanded back to the wood where the paint was flaking, but only sanded back to a good surface where the paint was still intact. Unlike the guest bedroom shutter, which I stripped back almost completely to bare wood, or the master bedroom shutters, which I just brushed down with a wire brush.

There are only so many ways you can
take a photo of "painting a shutter".
This is the "no flash, just using the worklamps
and a slow shutter speed" method.
I have now given them their first coat of undercoat. There will be two coats of undercoat, and two coats of topcoat. I hope the finish quality will be the same as on the guest bedroom shutters, but having spent only half the time sanding back as I did with them. Sanding back louvres is impossible to do completely, and no-one is going to be looking down the gap anyway.

I remembered almost all my rules for painting, which was good. I know if I wrote them down somewhere I would remember them.

Simon

Events in and around Preuilly for October 2009

Friday 2 - Descartes - Café Philo 20.30 - 22.30 at the Café du Commerce
Philosophy evening

Saturday 3 - Abilly - Soirée Théâtrale
One man show by Agnès Brion at the Salle des Fêtes

Saturday 10 – Cinéma

Sunday 11 - Le Petit Pressigny - Fête " l'Art and Lard"

Sunday 11 - Yzeures su Creuse - Randonnée des Vendanges
grape harvest walk

Friday 16 - Descartes - Atelier Philo 16.30 - 18.00 at the Maison Musée René Descartes
Philosophy workshop

Saturday 17 – Diner dansant – APE de écoles publiques
Dinner dance.

Sunday 18 - Forêt de Preuilly - Randonnée des Châtaignes at 14.00
A walk aroud the chestnut trees in the Communal forest. Meet at the Aire du Ribaloche

Saturday 24 – Diner dansant – ACPG (anciens combattants et prisonniers de guerre)
Dinner dance for the Old Soldiers and Prisoners of War

Market days in Preuilly are Thursdays and Saturdays. The market is held in Place des Halles in the morning.

On Saturday nights there is a pizza van in Place des Halles.

Also in October: Walnuts - pick them up for free from under any walnut tree on public land.

A female Roe Deer (doe or chevrette) at Montpoupon
Wildlife to look out for in October: Beware of deer and wild boar on the roads if you are driving at dawn, dusk or at night.

Wednesday, 30 September 2009

Buying a Poêle

Monsieur Douady the mason came round yesterday morning to discuss the wood fire we were thinking of buying and how we want it fitted. He will rebuild our chimney, fit the flue, and install a salvaged fireplace surround. As is customary in France, he will not connect up the stove itself though. That is a job for the plumber.

We have opted to buy our own poêle (wood burning slow combustion stove) and we went off to do that yesterday after checking with Monsieur Douady that the one we favoured was suitable and would fit in the fireplace. I have spent a long time - days and weeks of research - trying to decide which stove was right for us. There are many temptingly cheap poêles easily available, but after discussion with others who have installed slow combustion wood stoves, we realised that there was a reason they were so cheap. They just aren't as good quality, made of steel plate rather than cast iron, often single skinned with poor door seals and annoyingly small fireboxes .

The Invicta Carolo model we have bought is made in France of cast iron, takes 50cm logs and will burn 2 logs for 10 hours unattended overnight. It comes with a 5 year guarantee and we can choose to have the flue exit from the top or the back. We are going to have the flue come from the top so the stove sits almost flush with the front of the fireplace surround, and we are going to have a 30cm gap between the top of the stove and the mantelpiece, so we can put a saucepan or kettle on the stove if we want to. Best of all it was on offer at half price and only €399.

We purchased the stove at Bricomarché. To our amazement, the store actually had one in stock (it's pretty standard for French stores to advertise a good special, but have so few of the item in stock that if you are not there beating down the door on the first day of the offer you will miss out). Susan filled out the paperwork for the guarantee and paid, then we drove round the back of the store for the stove to be loaded into the car. The stove was on a pallet and they used a forklift to get it into the car as it weighs 118kg.

The Poêle in the car. It is also wine fair time at
the supermarches
When we got it home, John came down to help unload it. There was much discussion about how to get it over the rim of the car boot. After about an hour of theorising about how to slide it down a ladder (reminiscent of the bath episode) and what size lumps of wood we would need to jack it up, we decided to see if we could lighten it by removing some pieces such as the door and the fire grate. At this point Pierre-Yves arrived home from work and was able to provide extra muscle.

Once we had three people lifting a considerably lightened stove the job was an easy one. Easy, of course, being a relative term!

Now we await M.Douady's arrival to measure the flue so he can make sure he buys the right diameter tubage and then his return to do the chimney.

Next move for me is buying wood - and a chainsaw. Vroom vroom!!

Simon

Tuesday, 29 September 2009

The Last of the Summer Swallows

For the past couple of weeks the swallows have been preparing to leave for Africa. First it was the young birds all lined up on the telephone wires and on the ledges of the house opposite ours, then it was the adult birds.

We filmed these birds at the verger, getting in last minute supplies before leaving



The new banner photo was taken last Saturday (26th September 2009)

Simon

Monday, 28 September 2009

L'art et Lard

There are some thing that just cannot live up to the inner 15 year old's expectations, and this is one of them.

I will be visiting the fête in anticipation of seeing at least one copy of Michelangelo's David made out of pig fat, but I feel I may be disappointed.

Simon

Sunday, 27 September 2009

Some time in England

I've been away in Stratford-upon-Avon at a conference.

Conference bags ready to be handed out.
The conference went extremely well. Everyone agreed the food was particularly good this year.

Lamb shank in a red wine sauce.
The lamb was delicious, although there was a perfectly horrid mint sauce to go with it, which I am sure had been made with the contents of a box of mint teabags.

Conference delegates getting down to the serious
business of playing Scalextric.
Yes, they are dressed as cows...

I didn't get any free time in Stratford, so there are no photos of charming timberframed black and white buildings.

I did get a couple of hours in London, so there are some photos of office blocks.




Susan

Saturday, 26 September 2009

The Angel Inn

A handy hint for people travelling beyond the Loire Valley:

The Angel Inn is in St Giles High Street London, very close to Charing Cross Road and Denmark Street. This is a perfect location for us, as Denmark Street is where you buy guitars and Charing Cross Road is where you buy books, thus covering two of our interest quite nicely. Its location is a real bonus, because like many a London pub and/or restaurant that is half a block away from a main shopping street, the tourists stay away in hordes. (The same thing happens either side of Oxford Street.) We were introduced to this pub by a friend of mine one evening a couple of years ago on our way to a John Hammond concert.

Inside and out, this is a traditional London pub, unreconstrected, ungentrified, and unadorned. It looks like it hasn't changed in 100 years, and unlike most pubs that give that impression there is no artifice involved. I went there in the beginning of May with Kippa, and again with Susan on our last weekday in London when we had to visit our bank and sort out that sort of stuff.

The food is good value, especially considering the sort of prices you can pay in London - main courses about £6 including steak and kidney, fish pie, some Indian dishes. The beer is good, too - Samuel Smith's on tap; a good strong Yorkshire brew, the bitter is particularly recommended if you have an educated palate.

So - if ever you're in London and in need of sustinance, or even just some rehydration, try the Angel. Get it while it lasts, because I fear this pub is one of a disappearing breed.

Simon

Friday, 25 September 2009

An Update

A slow day in Preuilly - Bengt and Suzanne popped in to say hi, and apart from that nothing much happened much except for some painting.

This is the house as it looked in May 2006
and yesterday evening at sunset
It will be nice when the external walls have been repaired and rendered, but I am guessing that wont be for another 12 months or so. I am pleased with the shutter colour though.

Simon

Thursday, 24 September 2009

I am learning all the time!

I mentioned yesterday that Célestine and I were having some issues.

I decided to have a shot at sorting them out, so after a cup of coffee I fitted up my work lights in the garage, and started having a think whilst jiggling things on the motor (sometimes it works).

The "old" fuel filter. In three weeks
it totally blocked up
My first issue was why there was no fuel being pulled into the new filter I had fitted, so I got bold, removed the line out from the filter and started sucking. I managed to get fuel coming into the filter without getting any in my mouth (a miracle), then refitted the hose.

I then tried starting the car - no luck.

At that stage I emailed the garage in Descartes who fitted the alternator. Twenty minutes later I received a reply about priming the pump, and also saying that if I emailed back, he would come out to Preuilly.

My next step was to remove the air filter and splash some fuel directly into the carburettor. HOORAY!! Car started, but then stopped. I was amazed at this because I had been trying to 24 hours to start the car, and the battery still wasn't dead.

I kept splashing fuel into the carburettor in the hope that the pump would force some fuel in and all would be well. It wasn't.

I mailed this information back to the garage, and after lunch M. Musseau arrived. He did all sorts of stuff, including cleaning and rebuilding the carburettor, cleaning out hoses and testing the pump. He got the car working, but only by putting a fuel line into a jerrycan - the fuel tank was seized solid.

And that is how I drove it to Descartes: jerrycan strapped to the front passenger's seat, with the fuel pipe sneaking across my legs, and through the heater vent to the fuel pump.

It was a nice day for a drive though - even if I did have an open jerrycan sitting next to me while I was doing it. I found that I was grinning like the Cheshire Cat even in those conditions. I also learnt that if you leave the ignition on for a long time the ignition coil overheats, and the car won't start - and that the old coil in the boot still works.

When we got to descartes the car went straight over the inspection pit. We checked out the noisy exhaust as well as the fuel tank fittings. M. Musseau will be removing the tank, cleaning it, and treating the inside with a "product" (not sure if it's an epoxy or something more modern). He will also weld a crack in the exhaust pipe. I like M. Musseau's attitude: he likes the car, therefore I am allowed into the workshop and into the inspection pit, and even if I don't fully comprehend, he tells me stuff.

Célestine's underside. Marvel at that huge flat floorpan
I have to say a huge thank you to John, who followed me to Descartes and bought me home again.

Simon

Wednesday, 23 September 2009

On My Own Again

For the past couple of years, most of the time I have spent in Preuilly I have been on my own. Susan was working in London and I was working on the house. Then we moved here permanently, and since then it has been Susan and I all the time. Well - this week she is back in the UK working (at Stratford upon Avon) and I am at home.

I have been busy, too - I dropped Susan off at Tours airport on Monday afternoon, and since then I feel like I havent stopped. I have made huge amounts of pasta sauce to freeze and a batch of peach jam. I also tried (unsucessfully) to dry some tomatoes. Ever since Susan washed the numbers off the temperature knob of the oven it has been difficult to know what heat you are using. Whatever heat I was using was too much. In addition I found time to go down to the potager and pick up a couple of wheelbarrow loads of windfalls and put them on the compost heap.

It's a bit sad - a compost heap of apples and peaches.
I also took the opportunity to change the fuel filter on Célestine. This was not as straightforward as I hoped, and at the moment I can't get her started (again). The fuel pump is mechanical and only works when the engine is running, and because I have broken the vacuum in the fuel line I can't get the fuel flowing again. This is peeving, but hopefully it will be a quick fix when I work out what to do. I will be changing the fuel filter fairly often, as the fuel tank has a rust issue I hope will sort itself out after a couple of changes.

Under the bonnet. You can see the
old fuel filter centre left
Alex came over and mowed the potager yesterday afternoon. This really needed doing a couple of weeks ago, but we were waiting until after the rain. Then we were waiting until the sun came again, and luckily today we had a lovely afternoon. While Alex mowed I picked courgettes, tomatoes, peaches, apples, chillies and grapes.

Alex mowing the orchard. After a foggy
start the day turned really nice.
Hopefully that will be the last mow of the year. Next job in the orchard is to prune the cherry trees and pick grapes.

No rest for the wicked...

Simon

Tuesday, 22 September 2009

The Poterne

Last weekend I managed to visit the Potern museum for the first time. Simon visited exactly a year ago and wrote about it here.

The Poterne was the gatehouse to the château in Preuilly-sur-Claise. It is now the town museum, run by the Société Archaéologique (local history society). At the moment it is funded by the Society, but that responsibility is apparently due to be transferred to the Commune soon.

A different view of the Poterne.*
The Société Archaéologique has done a marvellous job of displaying and preserving a multitude of objects from Preuilly's past. There is a large collection of flint tools from the prehistoric, carved capitals from the middle ages, clog makers tools, apprentice and journeyman pieces from earlier generations of wood carvers and metal workers and assorted domestic objects. The pride of the collection are the Touraine bonnets, with their delicate hand stitched needlelace and incredibly finely goffered (steam pleated over metal rods) lace brims.

The museum is staffed entirely by volunteers, many of them teenagers, who open up and give guided tours (in French - if you speak English there is a written guide).

Susan

*everyone and his dog world has taken a photo of the poterne from below - except Simon. Otherwise we could show you the "usual" view as well.

Monday, 21 September 2009

The Mediaeval Feast

On Saturday night we attended the mediaeval feast put on by the local history society to coincide with the Journées du Patrimoine. The entertainment was provided by a re-enactment troupe of musicians and singers who acquitted themselves rather well.

The evening started by gathering at the front of the abbey, then moving on to the terrace of the Poterne (château gatehouse and now museum). Apparently the dinner itself was held on the terrace last year, but it was freezing, so it was moved indoors this year.

We were introduced to a number of people, including several connected to the Communauté des Communes. This is a voluntary intermediary level of public administration which is funded by the businesses of the area and whose focus is to improve the physical and economic environment of the member communes. I made slightly more of an impression than is strictly necessary on the man responsible for tourism in the area by hitting my head on a low beam and bouncing backwards into his arms. He was perfectly charming about it and made sure to check on my well-being several times during the evening.

I was really impressed by how many grown men were prepared to dress up in tights and dresses and walk around town. They were clearly having a great time, and it wasn't the alcohol fueling the bonhomie, although we all had a glass or two of spiced red wine at the Poterne.

From there we progressed to the function room at l'Image, which Simon and I have never been in before. It's a long room, with nicely restored pierre apparente walls decorated with traditional hunting trophies (deer skulls, legs bent to form hooks for garlands, hooves with the leg hide braided). There is also a large fireplace, decorated with a Protestant text from the aftermath of the Wars of Religion, when Preuilly's richest citizen and a significant number of local families were either imprisoned, forced to abjure their faith or go 'underground'.

Chef Jean-Michel Chedozeau created a special menu for the night (I suspect he really enjoys this sort of event, where he can do something a bit different).

First course was a pork and vegetable terrine flavoured with nutmeg, dressed with saffron flavoured swede and accompanied by stewed potimarron (a type of small pumpkin, very popular in France), flavoured with ginger and topped with pickled cherries. The pumpkin cherry combo was absolutely delicious. Following this was sturgeon in a rich sauce seasoned with juniper and cloves (very tasty), served with cumin spiced green lentils and leeks wrapped in bacon. Both the lentils and leeks were left by many people, who said the lentils were too spicy and that the portion was too big. We thought the leeks were delicious, and were interested by the 'too spicy' comment about the lentils. As far as we were concerned, the lentils were much as I would normally cook them (I'm a big fan of cumin). In fact, the sauce on the fish was spicier, and far more dominant than the touch of cumin in the lentils, but the fish got a very positive review from everyone. Then there was fromage frais with herbs, served with a perfectly ripe half fig. Once again, many people felt the herbs in the cheese (the chives, in particular) were too strong. The woman opposite me said that she really only liked fromage frais nature (plain). I'm sure Jean-Michel had done his homework and was presenting as good a representation of the mediaeval diet as he could, but modern Tourangelle food, whilst it is often robust and hearty, is also quite delicately flavoured and many people do not like more than a hint of herbs and spices.

I think everyone loved the dessert though. It was a glass cup with stewed apple on one side and stewed rhubarb on the other, topped with chestnut cream, a slice of pain d'épice and dried fruits. Scrumptious.

Simon and I were seated between two men both called Jean-Paul, opposite a woman called Jeanne and our friend John. To facilitate conversation the Jean-Paul to my right said that he would be Jean-Paul Un and so the man to Simon's left became Jean-Paul Deux. John was dubbed Jean Simple. Jeanne said that her husband's name was also Jean-Paul, but because it was such a common name, he never used it, and was just Jean. Simon drank enough to attempt complicated French with Jean-Paul Deux, who reads the blog and wanted to know all about Célestine. I was mindful that I had hit my head hard enough to possibly be concussed, so didn't drink anything but water.

Jeanne and her friend Mme Blaszyk (seated opposite Jean-Paul Un) are members of the choral group that was providing the entertainment, and although not part of the troupe working that night, sang along for their own pleasure, including taking parts in the rounds and harmonies, which was lovely. Jean-Paul Un plonked a great big cast iron key on the table and explained that it was his front door key. I expect he didn't want it wearing a hole in his coat pocket - it was at least 15cm long with a shaft thicker than a pencil. There was the inevitable round of jokes about chastity belts and someone asked if it was the key to paradise.

A lot of people (particularly Bernard de la Motte and Marc Dimanche) worked very hard at making this event the enjoyable occasion it was. We look forward to attending and being more involved next year.

Susan

Sunday, 20 September 2009

Support your local Mediaevalist

This weekend is Journées européennes du patrimoine, two days of heritage events in all 49 states that are signatories to the Cultural Convention of the European Union. In the UK it is most noticable in the Open House events, but in Preuilly last night it was most noticeable in the group of people in Mediaeval costume parading the streets.

Last night was the Mediaeval Feast put on by the Archeological Society. As new members this was our first time at the annual event, and we had a blast: parading the streets and holding up traffic, singing and dancing, a great meal...

If you're anywhere in the zone today get out there and check out the local heritage. You don't have to travel far, but you might find yourself amazed at what there is to see.

Simon

Saturday, 19 September 2009

The Peaches Have Given

Our neighbours often check which of our trees or vegetables are 'giving' (donner), meaning which we are picking or harvesting. The last few days we've had some very welcome steady rain, and yesterday afternoon there was a long sunny spell, so we nipped down to the orchard to see how everything was responding to suddenly receiving adequate water after months of dry.

It's too late for the big nectarine by the potager gate, which had huge numbers of fruit, only to drop almost all eventually. The few we picked were small and dry, with tough bitter skins. The peaches have fared a little better. They've been small, but cook reasonably well. The rain has had an almost instantaneous effect on them. Suddenly, they have doubled in size, but the shock has been too much and they have all dropped off the trees. Fortunately, they are perfectly usable and I have been blanching, peeling, stoning and roasting or stewing them as fast as I can so they can go in the freezer.

Next to 'give' will be the apples. They are starting to be significantly targeted by birds, so I am planning to strip at least one of the trees today. Then the table grapes will come in. They are still a little sour, but edible. We don't know what we are going to do with all those grapes though. Sadly, the white table grapes have succumbed to a fungal disease, so it's just the dark ones.

Susan

Friday, 18 September 2009

Another Slow Day

It rained most of yesterday, which is good. (I know, it's like déjà vu all over again!)

Susan went to the market in the rain, while I sat at home nursing my cold. We have had the heater on in the front room, which is quite cozy and comfortable, but we are looking forwards to the day when we have a proper fire in the room. We rang M. Douady to see if we can get a firm date for the work, but only got as far as his answering machine. (I say we, in this case that means Susan).

A photo from last week: the Loire River
from Chaumont sur Loire
In the afternoon Susan spent most of her time sorting out produce; peeling and stewing Peaches, making apple things, and I chipped in with cracking another couple of hundred hazelnuts.

Today we are off to Loches to register Célestine in our names, and try to sort out building permission for our garden wall. It sounds rather masochistic that we should attempt two branches of bureaucracy in one day, but we're young and strong...

Simon