Wednesday, 18 November 2015

Effigy

This late 12th century effigy is carved from limestone and came from a tomb in the crypt of the Abbey of Notre-Dame in Issoudun. It was discovered in 1853 when the building was demolished to make way for the courthouse (palais de justice). It is now housed in the former hospital ward of the Hospice Saint Roch, which is now a wonderful museum.

The very high quality carved slab rested on an arcaded support under an arch of a chapel. According to records of the find the tomb contained a skeleton dressed in silk and linen, which disintegrated when the tomb was opened.
 
The cover of the tomb has a representation of the deceased, shod in sandals, bare headed, tonsured. He holds and wears the insignia for his office. His chasuble is studded with jewels, he has a stole around his neck, a maniple on his left arm and holds a crozier in his right hand. This last is formed by an undulating shaft finishing in a smooth node topped by a volute with the head of a reptile. It is an external realisation of the enamelled crozier discovered within the tomb.

The abbot is depicted at the moment of his resurrection, with an angel on each side of the coffin swinging their censors to accompany the ascension of the soul of the deceased towards heaven. His left hand is placed on his chest in a sign of acceptance.

According to a recent scholarly examination this masterpiece of the end of the 12th century could be attributed to a workshop in Sens, which worked on effigies at Nesle-la-Reposte and then at Chartres.

Tuesday, 17 November 2015

Hotel de Ville, Loches

The Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) in Loches dates from 1543 and is built of limestone.

In 1519 the King François I gave the authorisation by letters patent to the town councillors of Loches to construct their town hall. The work was delayed due to financial issues and because five proprietors, having lodgings on the site, had to be removed. Directed by the master mason Jean Baudoin the work dragged out between 1535 and 1543.

The Hôtel de Ville is the L-shaped building on the left, with the French flags flying.
The master mason was confronted by two principal technical problems. First, the plot envisaged, whilst long, did not allow the town hall to be constructed with the gable on the street, the King having forbidden the demolition of the Porte Picois (Picois Gate) next door. Jean Baudoin therefore constructed two ranges parallel to the street. Second, the interior space wasn't big enough to construct a straight ramp staircase. The master mason in the end built a square tower backing on to the Porte Picois, to serve as the stairwell.

The decoration is sober, comprising two levels of double transverse mullioned windows bordered by voluted capitals, the heads of lions and putti. The spandrels of the first floor are delimited by a frieze of circles and lozenges. At the summit a dormer window is ornamented with the salamander, the symbol of François I.

The building has retained its function as the town hall since the date of construction, which is exceptional.
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Loire Valley Nature: A new entry has been added for the Deathcap mushroom Amanita phalloides. This common mushroom is the most deadly of them all.
A new entry has been added for Devil's Fingers Clathrus archeri. You may smell this distinctive stinkhorn fungus before you see it.
A photo, probably of Peltigera polydactyla, has been added to the Dog Lichens Peltigera spp entry. The fruiting bodies are bright orange.
A section for Fairy Inkcaps Coprinellus disseminatus has been added to the Inkcaps Psathyrellaceae entry. These are lovely little toadstools.
A new entry has been added for Caesar's Mushroom Amanita caesarea, uncommon here but one of the most prized of edible mushrooms.
A section for Lentinus tigrinus has been added to the Bracket Fungi Polyporaceae entry. This species has gills, so is an unusual member of the family.

Monday, 16 November 2015

Visconti and Sforza Arms

The Visconti family of Milan used a great serpent or basilisk known as a biscione (grass snake) as their family emblem. It is depicted with a person in its mouth, either a Saracen which it is swallowing, or a child, which it may be swallowing or giving life to. Their motto was Vipereos mores non violabo ('I will not violate the customs of the serpent'). The snake is blue on a silver background (azure on argent in heraldry speak). After the Visconti family died out the emblem was kept by the Sforza Dukes of Milan who succeeded them and it remains closely associated with the city (Alfa Romeo use it on their badge for example).


The 'EST' is for Beatrice d'Este, wife of Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan.
 Nearby on the same colonnade ceiling in the Castello Sforzesco is the serpent eating a Saracen, representing Ludovico himself.
 The classic Visconti arms, showing the serpent combined with a red cross (just like Alfa Romeo use). The date on this one is 1977, by the way.
 This version with the Imperial eagles must date from the end of the Sforza reign, when they ruled courtesy of the Habsburg Charles V.
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Loire Valley Nature: A new entry has been added for Clouded Funnel mushroom Clitocybe nebularis. You probably don't want to try eating this mushroom, no matter what your old field guide says.
A photo has been added to the entry for Ceps Boletaceae. The two mushrooms in the photo are the most prized edible species in the forest. 
A new entry has been added for Dead Moll's Fingers Xylaria longipes. This rare club fungus turns out to have all sorts of surprising uses.

Sunday, 15 November 2015

Reflections on an Act of Terrorism

We have twice rented apartments in rue Amelot. That's a street that runs at the back of the Bataclan Theatre. It's also only a couple of streets from the former Charlie Hebdo offices which were attacked in January. Last time we were in the area was in early February this year, soon after the Charlie Hebdo attacks. We were very moved to see the great piles of flowers and messages at several sites in the streets, where people had left tokens of their support and sorrow at the events.

 The Bataclan Theatre in February 2015.
Now this area has once again been the ground on which the members of a cult have shown themselves for what they are. Killers, willing to die themselves and completely lacking in human understanding of community or freedom. I can't identify with these people at all. Their cause seems nihilistic, not sacred, and designed to concentrate power in the hands of a few megalomaniacs. The perpetrators of the violence come across as pawns, their victims randomly and tragically unlucky.

The Cirque d'hiver, which served as a first aid station in the early hours of 14 November.
I suspect the terrorists are young, lack self esteem, are often intelligent but easily influenced by emotional arguments. They clearly see no real future for themselves and so are willing to die for a cause they have been carefully groomed to see as glorious. Once that grooming process is underway it is incredibly difficult to rehabilitate these people. All over the world we need to somehow let them know that they do not need to go down the route of extremism and that violent death is not glorious.

 The monument in the Place de la République, which today sports a banner made by locals which says 'J'être humain'.
There is much criticism of organised religion, especially Islam, being bandied about, but I think we need to be careful not to throw the baby out with the bathwater. I am not attracted to organised religion myself, but those involved are not necessarily bad or stupid people. Often quite the opposite. I was relieved to see that many senior Muslim figures have unequivocally condemned the killings and disassociated themselves and their religion from the event. That has not always happened in the past when similar events have taken place.

Unfortunately the way of the moderate is not glamorous, not loud, not dramatic enough to hold the attention of some bored hot-blooded passionately politically minded youngsters. We need to be very careful to try to direct that passion positively, for good, and to demonstrate how much we value our young people and their ideas and energy. Above all we need to work to create situations where young people can be meaningfully involved in their communities and the wider world. The media, teachers and the authorities are particularly important for setting the tone, but we all need to support them (and let them know we are watching). It can be hard and seem pointless, but I don't know how else we end the violence.
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A State of Emergency has been declared France wide. The prefecture has created a Crisis Unit and departmental security has been stepped up. Special temporary exhibitions have not been closed, but bags will be searched on entry and jackets must be removed. Police and security patrols have been increased around exhibitions, stations, shopping centres and places of worship. The public have been asked to avoid spontaneous gatherings in the street, apart from the officially sanctioned gathering to support the victims of the attack at 6.30 pm in Tours. Cultural venues and sporting facilities have been closed for the weekend, games and events cancelled. Some public libraries are closed.

Saturday, 14 November 2015

Griffon

This unique and handsome bronze griffon was discovered in 1974, isolated from any archaeological context when work to install the town sewage system in Issoudun was undertaken. It is probably 13th century. It is now part of the collection in the Musée de l'Hospice Saint Roch in Issoudun.

The animal, half eagle, half lion stands solidly on all four feet. Alert, head up and looking forward, it holds a small ball in its beak. Its short tail terminates in a flat round ended tuft with two volutes either side. This type of stylised finial can be frequently observed on medieval sculptures or enamels.

The animal must have been part of a more complex object, as evidenced by the threaded point hidden behind the back swept wings. It is probably part of a candelabra.  It's either the support for the candle holder or a decorative grip mounted on the other end of the candle holder. There are some similar objects in the Cluny and the Louvre which came from workshops in eastern France and Lower Saxony.

Found throughout the ancient East this fantastical animal was a guardian of treasures for the Greeks, symbolising eternal life, but more often a demon in the Roman and Medieval Christian world.
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Loire Valley Nature: A new entry has been added for Blusher mushroom Amanita rubescens. This mushroom is technically edible, but you wouldn't catch me doing so.
A new entry has been aded for Panthercap mushroom Amanita pantherina, one of the most dangerous mushrooms in the forest.
A new entry has been added for Blackening Chanterelle Craterellus melanoxeros, an edible but rare mushroom.
A new entry has been added for Green Elfcup Chlorociboria sp. The blue stained wood this species produces has been used for centuries by furniture makers.
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A la cuisine hier: A whole salmon, poached and divided up into 200 g portions for the freezer.
Some quinces cooked up and strained through the jelly bag in preparation for making jelly and paste.
Vegetable chilli, with black eyed peas, carrots, zucchini and swede.
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A Paris hier: As you will all know by now terrorists attacked multiple locations in Paris last night and killed well over a hundred innocent people in bars, the theatre and the street. It happened after I had gone to bed, but Simon woke me to tell me what was unfolding, so I would not be too shocked when I got up this morning and saw it on the news. The president has declared a state of emergency and border controls are being stiffened. Schools, museums, swimming pools and markets are closed. The Republique and Bastille area where the attacks mainly took place are familiar to us (Simon tells me we have a photo of the Bataclan theatre). The last couple of years this is the area we have taken to staying when we go to Paris.  It's also the area where the Charlie Hebdo killings took place. It's so difficult to deal with attacks like this. The killers have no respect for their victims and feed off the fear they create in the community. Mostly at the moment I just feel numb and bewildered at how anyone could justify randomly killing people in this way. We must find some common ground and work to bring it to the fore.

Friday, 13 November 2015

Manoir de Sansac, Loches

Loches is and was a town with a small population, but important despite its small size. It was (and is) a centre for tax collection, and situated on a major national crossroad.  In the 16th century, when the Manoir de Sansac was constructed, the population of Loches was about 3000 inhabitants. Today it is around 7000 inhabitants.

The Manoir de Sansac stands in rue du Docteur Martinais in Loches. It was built of tuffeau (limestone) in 1529 for Louis Prévost de Sansac, Grand Falconer of France and loyal personal friend of François I. He participated with distinction at the Battle of Pavia in 1525, and was taken prisoner by the Spanish alongside his monarch.

The glazed terracotta portrait of François I above the front door.
Sansac is hidden from the road and only open to the public a few days of the year. Even then it's just access to the grounds. Simon spotted that there would be a free guided tour in early September, so Niall, Antoinette and I turned up at the appointed hour. We were quite surprised by the size of the crowd that had already gathered. A guide from the heritage department spoke about the history of the house and Loches at the time of Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor's stopover here, when he met François I and they travelled together to Paris. Tradition has it that it was at Sansac that Charles and François met on the night of 12 December 1539, although they seem to have slept at the chateau.

In 1539 Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor, needed to get to Ghent in a hurry. He was based in Madrid, so despite the fact that he and François I had issues (over Pavia, Milan, Burgundy...) Charles applied to François to travel through France as the quickest way of getting to his troublesome territories in the Low Countries. François, unwell and unable to ride, grudgingly agreed. He travelled down as far as Loches to meet Charles. The locals were told to put on a spectacular to impress the Pope's appointed defender of the Catholic faith and they set up a fabulous pyrotechnical display of burning effigies of phoenixes and salamanders (the emblems of the two kings). The citizens of Loches were well rewarded financially for their efforts, receiving 400 livres. On the other hand, François and Charles did not exchange gifts and there was no banquet, due to the personal coolness between the two men.  

The Manoir de Sansac photographed from inside the grounds, situated on one of the channels of the Indre River between Loches and Beaulieu-lès-Loches.
The manor building originally comprised just a single range between two gables set at either side of a rectangular footprint. It was then enlarged by the addition of two short wings. The facade is broken by six mullioned windows surrounded by pilasters with capitals ornamented in volutes, cornucopia and the heads of angels. A twin curved staircase gives access to the front door, over which is the head of François I and an inscription which reads 'François de Valois, roi de France, premier de ce nom, âgé de trent-quatre ans'. The original medallion in glazed terracotta is reputed to be the best likeness anywhere of the king. It was probably made by the workshop of the potter Girolamo della Robbia. The one you can see today on the house is a copy. The original was sold and sent to the United States in the early 20th century. It was gifted in 1941 by George Blumenthal to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. He was described by the guide who led the visit as 'un grand collectionneur américain'.

The house was listed as a historic monument in 1927 and is currently privately owned.  I gather it was the current owner who had the copy of the terracotta portrait of François made, in 1991. The copy is not entirely true to the original, as it was made from a drawing rather than the real thing. The crown is not there on the original and there are some errors in the inscription. Nevertheless the copy is considered rather good. The original can be seen next autumn, on loan to the National Museum of the Renaissance in the Chateau of Ecouan. The Chateau of Fontainebleau also has a copy, made from a mould of the original.

Central internal staircase tower. 
The design is similar to the Chateau of Azay-le-Rideau.
An engraving from 1841 shows there were no angels either side of the front door like there are today. They hold shields with the Bridieu family arms on the right side and the Luzarche family arms on the left. The Luzarche family are connected to the nearby Chateau of Azay-le-Ferron and presumably married into the Bridieu family. The Bridieu family were the 20th century owners prior to the current owners. They installed the stained glass, which came from the well known workshop of Loubin in Tours. The intitials LB in the window by the entrance stand for Louis Bridieu.

Mullioned windows with leaded lights are not original, 
but the frieze with blank rondels is.
Also in the 1841 engraving there are no mullions in the windows. Were they replaced or has the house been 'enhanced' and romanticised? Service stairs have been added at the back but there were 19th century alterations too and it is not clear from existing drawings of the place exactly what work the Bridieu's undertook and what is earlier. Whoever is responsible we are left with an overlay of typical 19th century style pastiche on a genuine early Renaissance building that stylistically was a crossover between the late medieval (asymetric facade) and the renaissance (straight ramp on ramp internal staircase).
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Loire Valley Nature: An entry has been added for Beefsteak Fungus Fistulina hepatica. This edible fungi is best eaten raw and marinated in vinaigrette according to my friend Paul, but it is not a species he rates very highly for the table.

Thursday, 12 November 2015

Apple Cider Jelly

In the unending quest to use up the billion trillion apples in our pantry I have reprised a jelly recipe that I came up with to use a surfeit of strawberries in a previous year. The campaign to use apples is slowly showing results and I am down to three big trays and three small trays.

Ingredients
8 leaves gelatine, soaked in 2 tbsp cold water
1 cup sugar
1½ cups hot water
½ cup clear apple juice
2 apples with red skin
1 tsp lemon juice
1 cup sweet sparkling cider, chilled

Method
  1. Mix the gelatine, sugar and hot water together until everything is dissolved.
  2. Add the juices and the cider.
  3. Put in the fridge and wait for gelling to commence (about an hour, but check every 20 minutes).
  4. Quarter, core and thinly slice the apples.
  5. Stir the apples into the gelatine mix and spoon/pour into a glass serving bowl or 6 individual glasses.
  6. Chill until set.

Yum

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Loire Valley Nature: A photograph has been added to the Brown Hare Lepus europaeus entry. Hares are active all year round, so it is not uncommon to see their footprints in the winter snow.
A new entry has been added for Fungi Forays. If you want to learn about gathering fungi in the forest, join a group with experts on hand to teach you how to distinguish the edible from the toxic (and all the not toxic but not very interesting to eat ones in between).
A photo has been added to the Association de botanique et de mycologie de Sainte Maure de Touraine section of the Resources entry. It shows a basket full of Wood Blewit Clitocybe nuda, a common edible mushroom here.
A new entry has been added for Forest and Woodland, one of the richest and most important habitats in central lowland France.
A new entry has been added for Hornbeam Carpinus betulus, a common forest tree.

Wednesday, 11 November 2015

Mud and Misery

This highly evocative object is in the World War I galleries of the Musée de l'Armée in les Invalides. It is the mud-caked greatcoat and cape of Lieutenant Henri Gastaldi of the 72nd Infantry, killed at Hattonville in 1915. The items were donated to the museum by his family.

The coat is purposefully displayed horizontally and the mud has been deliberately left on the garment. It's what conservators sometimes call 'sacred dirt'. The acidic mud will eventually destroy the woollen fibres of the coat, but nevertheless curators have made the decision that to clean the item destroys something else of equal value -- the capacity for this garment to bring home the horror of the trenches in a way that a picture or text could not.
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Loire Valley Nature: An entry has been added for Yellow Woundwort Stachys recta. This is a species of warm chalky grassland slopes.

Tuesday, 10 November 2015

La Dame de Beaute Gets a Facelift

On Thursday afternoon we spent an interesting half hour or so checking out the work that has started on the tomb of Agnès Sorel in the church of Saint Ours in Loches. Agnès was the mistress of Charles VII and the first French royal mistress to be publicly acknowledged and given an official position. The Lady of Beauty, as she is known, is being conserved on site, with a corner of the church transformed into a workshop. The idea is to clean and conserve the effigy and return the tomb to something more like its original appearance.

The team of conservators is being managed by Olivier Rolland, who has also been supervising the stone conservation at the Chateau of Azay le Rideau. When we showed an interest and indicated that we knew a little about the subject he very kindly spent a few minutes chatting with us. He couldn't talk about the project in hand, because all public statements about the work need to come from the Loches authorities, but he was happy to talk to us about stone conservation in general. Where I have quoted him below it is taken from newspaper reports on the project.

 Sculpture conservation student Hoel Gaboriau at work on the black marble tomb.
He also picked our brains about the nuances of the terms conservator, curator and restorer in English. He said he'd just submitted an article for a British conservation journal and wasn't sure how he should translate his professional title of conservateur-restaurateur*.

 Olivier Rolland discussing the work with someone from the Loches works department.
According to Olivier one of the greatest problems he has to deal with in stone conservation in the Touraine is the widespread use of plaster of Paris to repair external tuffeau (limestone) walls in the 19th century. He took us round to a wall by the side of the church to show us what happens after time. The problem is even worse than the use of concrete on tuffeau. The effect is similar, with the stone crumbling behind and around the hard layer of plaster, but plaster of Paris is much harder to identify and often requires a laboratory test.

When we visited the effigy of Agnès had been lifted off the top of the tomb and was laid out on some trestles. Olivier was engaged in making an inch by inch inspection of the junction between the alabaster figure of Agnès and the slab of white stone she had been attached to in the 19th century. He says the work was restored in Paris between 1806 and 1809. It had been shattered by Revolutionaries who, coming from Indre, mistook her for a saint. The nose, the hands (which were originally holding a book) and the right elbow have been reconstituted.

 Olivier investigating the junction between the effigy and the stone slab.
The conservator's job is to mitigate the effects of time, and to clean up the results of 'certaines incivilités'. For example, Olivier says someone thought it was a nice idea to place a candle on the effigy and it has scorched the head of one of the angels leaning over Agnès' face. I often come across flowers that visitors have placed on her as well, and these could easily leave stains. Even if they don't leave objects visitors are prone to touching her and even the cleanest hands leave a slight residue which is acidic, oily and will attract dust which can make an indelible mark over time, especially if many people touch the same place.

 Olivier showing the work to one of the curators from the Logis Royal and a companion.
When both the tomb and the effigy are cleaned the sculpture is going to be replaced on the tomb, positioned centrally in the way shown in old drawings. This will be quite close to the way she looked originally, with the white sculpture contrasting with the black marble. She is going to be detached from the 19th century slab of white stone. Olivier wants her to give the impression she is floating, a bit like a ghost.

The sides of the tomb are going to be inverted, as they were accidentally installed the wrong way up when the tomb was returned to the church in 2005. Finally, they will reconstruct the canopy above the head of Agnès and the two angels. According to Olivier the sculptor will work in the same manner as a medieval craftsman, using the same tools. The canopy won't be of alabaster, to avoid giving visitors the false idea that it is original, but perhaps in white limestone, to best evoke the original and not merely create a pastiche. A slab of marble will be placed in front of the canopy, as shown in the old drawings as well. My guess is that this reinstatement of the canopy will cause some disappointment if the angels are not moved to a position more like they are shown in the drawing. Visitors are already disappointed at how obscured Agnès' face is but my suspicion is that the drawing is not strictly accurate (the angels appear to be at two different points on either side) and they will not be moved up to enhance the view.

A detail of a drawing of the tomb in the late 17th century, courtesy of Gallica, the Bibliotheque nationale's brilliant online service.
The team of four conservators have estimated the work will take six weeks and they are expecting the unforeseen complications that are always inherent in these very delicate conservation projects. Olivier was dealing with one when we visited, and at least four interested parties from the Loches authorities and the Citadel came to have a look while we were there.

Gypsum plaster and the damage it causes on a tuffeau wall near Saint Ours.
Olivier clearly loves this monument. He says despite working on funerary memorials all the time you never lose your sensitivity to them. He finds such tombs very touching, and mentions the tomb of the children of Charles VIII in Tours cathedral, which he worked on prior to it going off to an exhibition in Paris, as similarly affecting him.

Facts and Figures:

Conservation Work - the team of four undertaking the work are Olivier Rolland, who is in charge, two independent sculpture conservators, Fabienne Bois and Emmanuelle Sédille, and a trainee, Hoel Gaboriau, a sculpture conservation student at the Upper School of Fine Arts Tours-Angers-Le Mans.

A Much Manhandled Tomb - at her death in 1450, the remains of Agnès Sorel were deposited in a triple coffin of oak, cedar and lead and transferred from Jumièges (Seine Maritime) to the collegiate church of Saint Ours in Loches. Her coffin was placed in a tomb of black marble.

Even though Agnès had left a great deal of her estate to the canons, they asked Louis XI to move the tomb, which was situated in the middle of the choir of the church. Curiously (given that it seems likely he had her murdered) Louis ignored them, and it took until Louis XVI for the clergy to achieve their aim, in 1777.

The tomb was then placed in the nave, but desecrated during the Revolution. The effigy was restored in Paris between 1806 and 1809, then installed in the Donjon up until 1970, from where it was transferred to the Logis Royal. In 2005 it was brought back to the church of Saint Ours.

Financing the Project - the conservation of the tomb is an initiative of the town of Loches authority. The technical and scientific survey was overseen by Gilles Blieck, Curator for Historic Monuments at DRAC Centre-Val de Loire (regional cultural affairs department).

The work will cost €38 429.40 and at the last council meeting the heritage deputy requested a vote on asking for a grant from DRAC of 60% of the project funds. The remaining €15 371.76 has been donated by Loches Patrimoine et Culture so the project should break even for Loches council.

Definitions
*Conservator = conservateur-restaurateur
  Curator = conservateur
  Restorer = restaurateur
Conservators and curators are specialists usually working with museum quality collections or objects, often in the public sector. A conservator's work is to consolidate and stabilise the condition of heritage objects, using the lightest possible touch, careful scientific methods and using only techniques that are reversible should best practice change with further research. A curator is responsible for the display, historical research and interpretation of museum objects. The monetary value of the objects they work with is secondary to the heritage value. Restorers are usually working for private collectors and their aim is often to return an object to 'as new' condition or maximize the auction value.

Further Reading (not directly related to the project at hand, but worth reading if you are interested in heritage building and sculpture conservation).
The Use of Lime and Cement in Traditional Buildings (Historic Scotland Information for Historic Building Owners).
Decorative Lime Plaster (by Trevor Proudfoot, Cliveden Conservation, for www.buildingconservation.com). Trevor is an ex-colleague of mine and I owe everything I know about stone and statuary conservation to him.
Traditional Lime Plaster: Myths, Preconceptions and the Relevance of Good Practice (by Ian Constantinides, St Blaise, for www.buildingconservation.com). Sadly, I don't recall ever meeting Ian, but colleagues worked with him from time to time.
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A la cuisine hier: A creamy chicken and bean casserole, with some of Simon's homemade homegrown tomato sauce, and served with his homemade naan bread.

Caramelised figs with raw cultured cream and raspberry coulis. The figs came from Antoinette, who brought round a bag of twenty ripe little green figs from her garden.

Monday, 9 November 2015

Sgraffito

This fine sgraffito decorated cornice and external wall is on one wing of the Castello Sforzesco in Milan. I'm guessing that it is part of the post World War II restoration, but it is a technique of wall ornamentation that was common in Italy in the Renaissance. It is related to fresco, in that it is a technique that manipulates layers of renders and pigments while they are damp so that the final design is chemically bonded to the wall, not just a surface layer.
This particular wing of the Sforzesco houses among other things the last, unfinished, work of Michelangelo. Unfortunately the interior is such a maze that we never found his Pieta. We did see lots of other fab things though, so we weren't too disappointed.
For more about the technique of sgraffito see my post on the Villa Rose in Saint-Aignan.
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Au jardin hier: Garlic planted. This year I've used my own garlic cloves, the best and fattest cloves collected from the best bulbs from my very good crop harvested in the summer. I still have plenty left to cook with until the new season's crop is in.

A small black and white woodpecker turned up and investigated the paulownia by tapping on some of the upper branches. It was a bit bigger than a sparrow so I think it must have been the Middle Spotted Woodpecker. The call matched the recording I listened to on the internet.

Sunday, 8 November 2015

Aboriginal Rock Art

A naturalistic wallaby.
The Aboriginal rock paintings in various caves and rock overhangs in the Kakadu National Park are some of the best in Australia. Kakadu, despite its remote location, is famous enough to be relatively easy to get to and the rock paintings on fairly easy walking trails. The creation of the paintings is a sacred act in Aboriginal culture, so it is a great privilege to be able to view them here.

An x-ray style wallaby.
These particular paintings are at a site widely referred to as Nourlangie, but strictly speaking this place is called Anbangbang. They are a mixture of x-ray and naturalistic styles and include spirit figures and prey animals. The pigments are naturally occuring local iron or manganese rich clay and kaolin made into powdered ochres and mixed with water. Brushes are made from hair, feathers, fibrous bark and other plant materials. The paintings in the park date back 20 000 years, but the main images in these photos were painted in 1964. Because the act of painting is more significant than the painting itself many images are overlaid with completely different paintings done at a later date. Others are faithfully refreshed as required by local Aboriginals who have the traditional right to do so (usually the right is handed down through kinship). Paintings serve to record events, ensure animal abundance and educate children.

Lightning Man (on the right, holding an arc) and other Creation Ancestors.
These paintings have many levels of understanding and stories attached to them. As a visitor you are told the 'public' level, but Aboriginal elders would know other stories too. The more knowledge you have about the message the images convey, the more responsibility you have within the culture they belong to.

Saturday, 7 November 2015

Pulling the Parsnip

Over a few days at the end of October, beginning of November we had some remarkable weather, with the maximum temperatures getting up to 20°C, mild nights and sunny days. I took the opportunity to prepare the potager for onions and garlic.

Wild Parsnip pulled from the potager.
Our potager has a tendency to get over-run with certain native plants which are a nuisance in the garden so I consider to be weeds. These include Bristly Oxtongue Picris echioides, Creeping Thistle Cirsium arvense, Dandelion Taraxacum agg, Field Bindweed Convolvulus arvensis, Wild Carrot Daucus carota and Wild Parsnip Pastinaca sativa. Of that list the two that annoy me the most are the first and last. As friends and regular readers will know, I am extremely tolerant of weeds, but Bristly Oxtongue and Wild Parsnip are vigorous, tall, stiff, deep rooted and self-seed enthusiastically. They are a complete pain in a working garden. I'm also sensitive to Wild Parsnip, which leaves me with phyto-photodermatitis (burns caused by skin contact with compounds in the plant that then react to the UV in sunlight to redden and blister).

Often I deal with weeds in a quick and dirty manner, by chopping them off at ground level. This gets them out of my way and prevents them seeding if I time it right, but doesn't kill the plant. When I eventually get round to pulling them out entirely they can put up quite a fight. The one in the photo above was right on the edge of a fallow row, so had been chopped off several times and lived through several seasons because I hadn't needed to remove it. Now the row is back in service and planted with onions, that parsnip had to go. 

Looking at that impressive tap root you can see why some enterprising Roman gardener looked at Wild Parsnip and started cultivating it deliberately for the table though. Even on a wild plant there is obviously considerable carbohydrate potential.

Friday, 6 November 2015

Fungi and Friends

A couple of Sundays ago (October 25 to be precise) I invited our friends Rosemary and Jean-Michel to take the trip down from their home in Blois to visit us. It enabled me to unload a couple of dozen apples on them, along with some saffron bulbs and some garlic. Plus it meant we could pop over to Maison Perrin and order our fresh foie gras, to be picked up in early December and processed by us ready for Christmas, at a workshop held at Rosemary and Jean-Michel's, like we did last year.

Jean-Michel being tutored by Paul in sniffing out the characteristic odour of the False Death Cap mushroom.
Just as importantly it allowed me to take Rosemary and Jean-Michel on a mycologie outing in the Forest of Loches. Rosemary and Jean-Michel are keen mushroom foragers for the table and are already very knowledgeable but had never been on a science focused fungi foray before. Jean-Michel was particularly looking forward to meeting my fellow members in the Association de botanique et de mycologie de Sainte Maure de Touraine, who were leading the outing.

I made sure we hooked up with Paul, one of the real experts and Jean-Michel had lots of questions. Paul loves to pass on his knowledge and all sorts of snippets of information were exchanged. I lurked around in the background and took photos and notes. The False Death Cap Amanita citrina (Fr. La citrine) for example has a strong and characteristic odour of raw potato and radish. Ironically, the False Death Cap isn't toxic, but isn't especially tasty, whilst its lethal lookalike the Death Cap Amanita phalloides, smells sweet and tastes pleasant. The latter is so poisonous that even the spores dropped accidentally on edible mushrooms can lead to symptoms of poisoning that if not treated can result in liver damage.

Rosemary on the left and Jean-Michel on the right take in every word as Paul explains how to identify a particular mushroom.
Paul showing me some Candlesnuff Fungus Xylaria hypoxylon (Fr. Xylaire du bois), still white and immature.
Inside a ripe black Candlesnuff are the spores. Paul deftly cut this tiny fungus the diameter of a piece of string to reveal the surprising structure .
Candlesnuff fungus has quite complicated life cycle. If you are interested in the details, see here.

Not everyone was focusing on fungi. 
François was collecting botanical specimens, in his typical chaotic but brilliant manner.

Thursday, 5 November 2015

Flagging Up the Orchids

Just recently I received the most splendid gift imaginable. It came suitably wrapped in a gold plastic bag, with a bundle of wires sticking out the mouth of the bag.

A Lizard Orchid Himantoglossum hircinum flagged near the potager fence.
Tim had been putting an order in to NHBS for some new toys (err, I mean equipment...) and spotted some marking flags in the catalogue. He got some for himself and very kindly got some for me too. The flags come in red or yellow vinyl and are for use by botanists to mark individual plants in the field. To avoid adding further to the environment's contamination with heavy metals they do not contain any lead. Routinely added to plastics intended for the outdoors to provide UV protection, lead just as routinely leaches into the environment as these plastics break down. It will be interesting to see how long the flags last, as they will have to be out in all weathers all year long. 

A little group of Ophrys spp orchids flagged in the potager.
Every orchid in the orchard that has poked its leaves above ground so far for the coming new year has been given a flag, carefully and consistently placed just to the west of each plant. I've also marked a couple of Glanville Fritillary Melitaea cinxa caterpillar nests and a Praying Mantis Mantis religiosa egg sack, so that they are not stood on or mowed over.

I reckon it's up there in my list of top 5 best presents ever. Thanks Tim!

Wednesday, 4 November 2015

The Saint Ours Trunk

Local readers will probably have seen the strange object to the left of the door in the porch of Saint Ours church in Loches. Until recently there was no explanation of its history, although there were instructions for using it.

Say a prayer or make a vow, then hammer in a tack. Put a coin in the 'urn' on the door (it's a box with a slot in fact). €1 + €1 + €1 + ... = the amount collected which helps the work of the French agency of Caritas International (Fr. Secours Catholique), the Catholic Church's confederation of aid agencies. 

It used to be €1 for three tacks, the number presumably a reference to Christ nailed to the cross. Secours Catholique works internationally to help those in need and is currently involved in trying to improve conditions at the notorious unofficial refugee camp near Calais known as the Jungle. They are also in Nepal since the earthquake in April and gearing up to help communities all over the world combat climate change. Last year they worked in Réunion after a devastating cyclone and just last month they were in the south of France working to help people cope with the really extraordinary recent floods there.

Secours Catholique don't just makes sure people are fed and housed. They also ensure people know their rights and they assist with legal procedures and insurance claims for those whose life situation puts them at a disadvantage when dealing with these sorts of issues.

One of our clients hammers a tack in.
Launched in 1962 by Jean Rodhain, founder of Secours Catholique, the idea of setting up 'trunks' in churches to fundraise for the poor was copied in Loches as it was in numerous other French towns. 

Only two 'trunks' have stood the test of time. One is in Lourdes, and the other is this one in Loches. It has been in the porch of Saint Ours for over fifty years.

Should you be unable to visit Loches and use the trunk in person, I am sure Secours Catholique would be grateful for anything you can give via their website.

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I spent the most frustrating morning yesterday - all in the name of trying to check our phone bill.

Every couple of months we receive an email from Orange for our fixed line telephone. This month there was 4€ of calls on the bill, unusual as we always use Skype. So I thought I would check what calls were made. I followed the link on the email that said "Votre facture du 4 Novembre 2015 est disponible sur orange.fr > espace client " which took me to a page that refused to recognise my password.

After a while, I reset the password, then logged on. Could I find the bill?? No - when I clicked on the access facture link - it took me back to the previous page. Continually. I followed every link on every page. The Orange website is a great place if you want to be sold something, but apparently they have no interest in telling what you previously spent your money on.

So I logged out, closed firefox, and started the process all over again. Guess what - my reset, brand new, I even wrote it down, password is wrong.

Why are Orange determined to live up to every stereotype about French customer sevice?

Simon