Monday, 9 October 2023

Fruit at the Market

The new season's apples and pears are in, as well as grapes. I buy most of my fruit from Fruit O'Kalm, my local organic orchard, who have a stall at the Saturday morning farmers' market in Preuilly sur Claise. 

 Quinces, donated by a parent and available at the primary school for whatever you wished to pay, proceeds go to the school.

Quinces, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

Sandie choosing apples for me. I know her well enough that I would be allowed to choose my own apples, but it is traditional in France to allow the vendor to choose the fruit and for the customer not to touch it prior to purchase. The big apples are Melrose.

Apple producer, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

This year for the first time Fruit O'Kalm has an almond crop. They planted the trees several years ago, but they take a while to produce a crop. Also in this photo, Chasselas grapes and the last of the blood peaches.

Organic locally grown almonds, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

Two pear varieties, Beurre Hardy and Harrow Sweet, along with the last of the figs.

Organic locally grown pears at a market, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

New season Gala and Pilot apples.
Organic locally grown apples at a market, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.


Saturday, 7 October 2023

Eglise Saint Severin, Paris

The church of Saint Séverin in Paris is in the 5th arrondissement, near the Seine. It has been the parish church for this part of Paris since the 9th century, and there has been a chapel on this site since the 6th century. After being razed by the Vikings in the 9th century, a new church was built in the 13th century, then added to in the 15th. The bell from this period is the oldest in Paris and the gargoyles are rather marvellous.

Eglise Saint Severin, Paris, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

Its main claim to fame is that it is the last intact charnel house in Paris. The cemetery opened in 1250 and in 1430 was formed by galleries on three sides of the courtyard. Today the bones have been removed, and the galleries look like a cloister. The priests lived in rooms above the galleries. 

Eglise Saint Severin, Paris, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

There were two ways you might be interred in the cemetery. If you were poor you would be tossed into a communal pit. If you were rich your body would be laid out to rot until there was nothing but a skeleton. Then your bones would be stacked up in one of the galleries.

Eglise Saint Severin, Paris, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

But in 1674 the charnel houses were banned because of the collapse of parts of the Cimetiere des Innocents due to the weight of bodies, and the galleries did indeed become cloisters. The bones were removed to the Catacombs and by the 18th century the galleries were even closed in with glazing. In the 19th century the western galleries were demolished.

Friday, 6 October 2023

Money Bags on the Window

Carved window embrasure, Chateau Royal d'Amboise, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

In the Cupbearer's room in the Chateau Royal d'Amboise there is a rather surprising carved window.

Carved window embrasure, Chateau Royal d'Amboise, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
 

The window embrasure, decorated with pilgrims' staffs, purses full of coins and a saddlebag, is a reminder that Amboise was a stopover for pilgrims on their way to Saint-Martin-de-Tours before continuing on to Santiago de Compostela.

Carved window embrasure, Chateau Royal d'Amboise, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

The window embrasure also features fleurs de lys and ermine tails, the symbols of Charles VIII and Anne of Brittany, who transformed the chateau from a fortress to a late medieval luxury country residence.

Thursday, 5 October 2023

Walking Around Abilly

On 20 September I joined Joel, Denise, Tilly, Helene and Jean-Jacques on a 8.5 km walk taking 2 hours. We walked up from the greenway, through the forest, past the medieval fortified farm of La Chatiere and back down to the greenway.

Sheep dogs guarding a barn full of sheep.

Sheep dogs guarding sheep in a barn, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

A small abandoned vineyard. The variety looks like gamay to me.

Abandoned vineyard, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

Common Heather Calluna vulgaris (Fr. Callune). I showed Jean-Jacques how to use the PlantNet app [link] to identify this plant.

Common Heather Calluna vulgaris, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

Sweet Chestnut Castanea sativa (Fr. Chataignier) fallen leaves (Fr. les feuilles mortes) and chestnuts in their prickly husks (Fr. les bogues).

Sweet Chestnut Castanea sativa fallen leaves and chestnuts, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

This view will change in the next few years. The 29 ha site will became a 40 000 unit solar farm, with sheep grazing beneath the photovoltaic panels.

Proposed site for solar farm, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

Wild Privet Ligustrum vulgare (Fr. troène commun), growing in a hedge.

Wild Privet Ligustrum vulgare, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

Wednesday, 4 October 2023

Botany Outing to the Loire Sands at Ile Perchette

Dominique Tessier led an outing on the Loire sands at the Ile Perchette near Noizay on Saturday 16 September. 

The Loire sands in the riparian zone are a repository of acid sand loving plants in a sea of the calcareous clay which is the usual soil type in the wider Loire Valley. Along with seven species of willow on the banks, there are also all sorts of rarities. But the habitat is increasingly threatened by invasive Paspalum and water primroses Ludwigia spp (Fr. Jussie), which choke native species out.





Compact Dock Rumex thyrsiflorus (Fr. Patience à fleurs en thyrse), with leaves munched by Green Dock Beetle Gastrophysa viridula (Fr. Chrysomèle de l'Oseille) I assume, although I never saw one in action.
Compact Dock	Rumex thyrsiflorus, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Licorice Milk-vetch Astragalus glycyphyllos (Fr. Astragalle réglisse), uncommon and not found much in the Touraine away from the more calcareous banks of the Loire.
Licorice Milk-vetch	Astrogallus glycyphyllos, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Greater Musk-mallow Malva alcea (Fr. Mauve alcée), a calcareous soil lover that is typically found on the higher levels of river banks.
Greater Musk-mallow	Malva alcea, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Red Bartsia Odontites vernus (Fr. Odontite rouge), a hemiparasite which despite the name, flowers in the autumn.
Red Bartsia	Odonites vernus, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Water Mint Mentha aquatica (Fr. Menthe aquatique), which was attracting several species of bees, including some which normally specialise in other plants.
Water Mint	Mentha aquatica, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
A faded and worn Common Carder Bumble Bee Bombus pascuorum (Fr. Bourdon des champs).
Common Carder Bee	Bombus pascuorum, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Common Carder Bumble Bee.
Common Carder Bee	Bombus pascuorum, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Female Shiny-vented Sharp-tailed Bee Coelioxys cf inermis.
Shiny-vented Sharp-tailed Bee	Coelioxys inermis, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
 
Dominique talking about Tape Grass Vallisneria spiralis (Fr. Vallisnérie spiralée), very rare in the wild here. Boats and coypu rip the weed up and it washes up on the shore.
Botanist talking about Vallisneria spiralis, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel..
Male Bellardia sp, a type of blow fly.
Bellardia sp, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Hawthorn Crataegus monogyna (Fr. Aubépine), covered in berries.
Hawthorn	Crataegus monogyna, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

Tuesday, 3 October 2023

Growing My Hair For a Good Cause

Two years of hair growth. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
My hair in July 2022, three months before I got it cut.

Last year I donated two years worth of hair growth to a charity called Fake Hair Don't Care. Basically, I couldn't go to the hairdressers during the Covid lockdowns, and simply never got round to it once I was allowed to afterwards. Finally, once it was waist length and really starting to annoy me, I emailed Christelle at Zen Coiffure in Preuilly and booked a slot.

Getting hair cut for wigmaking charity, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Washed, dried and ready to cut.

Christelle was familiar with the procedure, but she was dealing with rather a lot of hair, so the whole appointment took over an hour. Even though I'd spent the summer swimming, she said my hair was in really good condition. Barely any split ends, and tangle free. I never dye or treat my hair with anything other than a twice weekly wash with Head and Shoulders 2 in 1. It never gets dried with a hair dryer, and I made Christelle laugh by telling her I did own a hair dryer, but it lived in the downstairs toilet and had been bought for thawing the pipe to the cistern when it froze.

Hair for donation to wigmakers, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
My hair cut off and ready to send to Fake Hair Don't Care.

Fake Hair Don't Care mostly give the hair to wigmakers who supply wigs to people living with cancer, but they also ask if you are willing for them to sell your hair to raise money for cancer charities.

Haircut, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
The new haircut.

Monday, 2 October 2023

Reine des Reinettes Apple

Reine des Reinettes is a variety of apple that has been cultivated since at least the 18th century. It seems to have appeared in the Netherlands around 1770.


 Reine des Reinettes in our orchard.
Reine des reinettes apple, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

It is a type of pippin and today is one of the most popular apple varieties in France, considered top quality.

The trees blossom around the same time as Golden Delicious and can be fertilized by that variety and Granny Smith. French orchards often grow it because of its use as a cross pollinator.

This year our little old Reine des reinettes trees are so loaded the branches are drooping to the ground.
 
Reine des reinettes apple, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

In the kitchen it is particularly used in tarte Tatin. The fruit is yellow skinned, with red striations. The apples have pale yellow flesh, juicy and sweet with a good acidic balance.

Eat them between December and March. The trees have a tendency to fruit in alternate years only.

Saturday, 30 September 2023

Mountain Singers

In Cauterets on the eve of the Tour de France stage that finished there on 6 July, we were charmed by Eths d'Azu, a male choir which had reformed to perform their repertoire of traditional Pyrenean mountain songs for the first time in 15 years.

Pyrenean mountain choir, Hautes Pyrenees, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

Mountain singers (Fr. chanteurs montagnards) are part of a popular choral tradition dating back to the 19th century. The idea of the original movement was to encourage social harmony based on practicing musical harmony. The choirs promote conviviality and a way of integration into the mountain culture for incomers.

We noticed with some amusement that every song mentioned mountains, sheep and shepherds, and how great it was to be outdoors in the mountains. A couple of songs acknowledged that women existed and were quite nice to have around ie they cooked well or pleased the male eye. Some of the songs were not in French but in the local dialect of Bigourdan Gascon. We assume their themes were similar. 

Friday, 29 September 2023

Diana the Huntress

Diane de Poitiers was born in late 1499 or early 1500, the daughter of Jean de Poitiers and his wife Jeanne de Batarnay. Her mother was the daughter and only surviving child of Imbert de Batarnay, the remarkable negotiator and diplomat who served four French kings. She was born in the Dauphiné in the south-east of France, where her father held territory. For more than twenty years she was the mistress of Henri II, King of France. Clever and well educated, with a head for business and politics, she strongly influenced the king. She was clearly his soulmate, despite the twenty year gap in their ages.

 The tomb of Imbert de Batarnay in the church at Montrésor. He is the effigy in the foreground.

Her family operated in the most intimate royal circles. Her paternal grandfather had married the illegitimate daughter of Louis XI. In medieval times illegitimate children of noblemen were acknowledged openly and shared all the privileges of their legitimate half siblings.

 Diane de Poitiers, portrayed as Diana the Huntress by Francesco Primaticcio. She is also discreetly exposing one breast, telling you she is the King's mistress, and her hair is bleached blond.

Diane's mother died  when she was six years old and she went to live in the household of the formidable Anne de Beaujeu, daughter of Louis XI and regent of France in the early years of her brother Charles VIII's reign. At the age of fifteen she was married to Louis de Brézé, the grandson of Charles VII and Agnès Sorel. He was nearly forty years her senior, and she gave him two daughters. It seems to have been a successful union, despite the age difference.

In 1524 Diane's father and Anne de Beaujeu's brother-in-law were accused of treason, and Jean de Poitiers became the principal scapegoat of the affair. He was only saved from the scaffold by her intervention and reminding the king of her husband's loyal service. Louis de Brézé had in fact been the person who alerted the king to the plot. I think it is likely that Diane inherited her maternal grandfather's diplomatic skills and political savvy. Nevertheless, the affair was serious enough that her father spent the rest of his life imprisoned, in the chateau-fort of Loches (in some comfort, it has to be said...).

 Jean de Poitiers was imprisoned in the tower on the right.

Diane served as lady in waiting to François' queen, Claude, then when she died, the king's mother Louise of Savoie, then finally to his second wife, the Hapsburg Eleanore of Austria. It is during this time that some biographers claim that she became the mistress of François I, but there is no real evidence of this and I am inclined to think she managed to keep herself free of the lecherous king's clutches.

Louis de Brézé died in 1531 and Diane adopted the garb of a widow from that time on. I suspect that the combination of black and white with gold stripes suited her and gave her a defined style and elegance that people remarked upon. Later, Henri II was to adopt the same colour scheme for his household livery. She also took the opportunity to gain control of Louis' lands and titles in her own right, and to manage them on behalf of their daughters. François I was clearly benignly disposed to her as he granted her the letters patent to achieve her goals and giving her the right to the income from her daughters' inheritance.

The battle of Pavia in 1525 had been a humiliating defeat for François, and he had to send his two young sons as hostages to Charles V, King of Spain and Holy Roman Emperor. Prince Henri was seven at the time, and they were accompanied to the border with Spain by their grandmother Louise of Savoie. In the absence of their dead mother, Diane, one of Louise's ladies in waiting, kissed the young prince farewell. The boys were prisonners for four long years, held in isolation and uncertain of what the future would bring. Henri immersed himself in chivalric stories and in his fantasy world Diane was cast as la dame par excellence. When he was finally returned to the French court, his father put Diane in charge of his education, and during the celebratory games when François married Eleanore of Austria, Henri saluted not his new stepmother from the jousting lists, but Diane.

Henri, Duke of Orléans, as he was then, married Catherine de Medici in 1533. Diane approved of the match and had promoted the idea, despite Catherine being considered 'trade' by many at the French court. Catherine's mother was French and she and Diane were in fact cousins. The young royal couple did not produce the expected string of heirs and Diane was on hand to advise. Despite ensuring that Henri spent sufficient nights in his wife's bed, it seems likely that Diane and Henri became lovers around 1538.

When in 1547 Henri became king, Diane was showered with gifts, including the crown jewels and the chateau of Chenonceau. He took as his personal symbol the crescent, the symbol of Diana the Huntress, and he used it everywhere. It's difficult to tell if their relationship was sexual or not, but certainly she was his friend and confidante, and was his 'lady' in the chivalric sense.

The queen Catherine resented Diane deeply, but while Henri was alive had to keep her feelings in check. Diane was one of her ladies in waiting, and served her during the birth of all of her children. It was Diane who occupied herself with the matters of the royal children's education, nourishment and living quarters. She also made sure Henri slept with his wife often enough that she produced ten children in twelve years. During his reign there was a lot of comment on the fact that his monogram of two interlaced Cs back to back over an H looked more like two Ds and an H. Catherine reclaimed and reworked it after his death, making sure the ends of the Cs went beyond the uprights of the H so it was more clearly two Cs.

Ambassadors visiting the French court report that every evening after an ambassadorial meal the king would repair to Diane's chamber to talk over the day's events with her. It is always assumed that she advised the king, probably wisely, during these sessions, and therefore had considerable influence at court. However, there is no record whatsoever of the conversations that took place between them and no real proof of her affecting the king's decisions or the course of events (except that certain members of her family rose to high office). For modern romantics it can be very easy to over estimate the influence of Diane and under estimate the influence of the Constable of France, Anne de Montmorency.

However, the rise of the hardline Catholic Guise family was assisted by Diane's position and her daughter's marriage into the family. Montmorency did his best to mitigate Diane's influence, ensuring for example that the king was encouraged to spend time with another woman during a period when Diane was absent from court while a broken leg caused by a fall from a horse healed. But as the Guise family became more and more powerful Diane and Montmorency put their rivalry for the king's attention aside in order to make sure the Guises did not gain too much control.

Diane was a significant patron of the arts and commissioned many works from painters, sculptors and architects. She also supported the Italian goldsmith Cellini and the poet Ronsard

 The Chateau of Chenonceau. 
Diane added the bridge from the back of the chateau to the southern bank of the Cher.

When king Henri II was mortally wounded in 1559 she refrained from exposing herself to the possible humiliation of being barred from his sickroom, by simply not visiting. She was barred from attending the funeral. When he died she returned the crown jewels to the new king, as was customary.  By the end of the year Catherine de Medici had forced her to accept the chateau of Chaumont in exchange for Chenonceau, but surprisingly, Diane was left with the majority of her assets intact. She very sensibly retired to her chateau of Anet in the north and lived in obscurity until her death in 1566.

A 17th century woman* as Diane chasseresse.

In 2008 her remains were forensically examined and it was discovered that she had an unusually high concentration of gold in her bones. It is believed that this was caused by her drinking colloidal gold as an elixir of youth and to maintain her extremely pale skin.

In my opinion one of her most important legacies was as the creator of a new ideal of womanhood. In medieval times women were expected to aspire to be like the Madonna. They were encouraged to cultivate traits such as obedience and piety and concentrate on their maternal and domestic duties. But by the late 15th century young aristocratic and middle class girls were being educated as well as their brothers. Clever, capable women like Diane wanted more, and she adopted an alter-ego of Diana the Huntress. This allowed her to demonstrate much more challenging traits such as independence, intelligence, sportiness and most interesting of all, the power to choose who she slept with and when. This last quality is associated with the legend of Acteon and Diana, where the goddess transforms a peeping Tom into a stag and hunts him down. Young women were attracted in droves to this new ideal of womanhood, and many copied Diane's habit of having herself portrayed as Diane chasseresse.


*When I first saw this painting the woman was identified as Gabrielle d'Estrées, the mistress of Henri IV. Then the identification was changed to Laure Victoire Mancini, the second Duchess of Vendôme, before going through a period as unidentified, then back to Laure Victoire Mancini. I wouldn't mind betting that it is in fact one of Laure Victoire's sisters. I always doubted the identification as Laure Mancini, as I think the slight dip in the neckline is an extra subtle way of telling us she is somebody's mistress. Laure Mancini died very young in childbirth and as far as I know was sincerely attached to her husband (or at least, continually pregnant from the age of 18 to 21).

Thursday, 28 September 2023

In Memory of Babeth

Recently our friend Babeth died. We were all members of Phoenix en Claise, a group which very successfully brings together all nationalities living in the area who like to walk, dance or make music. We participated in the walking together.

Babeth and Fabrice walking near Neuilly le Brignon.

Walking, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

A few years ago she started having back problems, which just got worse. Eventually she was diagnosed with inoperable pancreatic cancer. Immunotherapy doubled her life expectancy, but in the end no further treatment was effective. 

An animal lover, Babeth could never resist offering a handful of grass to any horse we passed.

Feeding horses, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

She is a sad loss to the group. Much too young to die, for a start, and enjoying retirement. She was immensely houseproud and a tireless housekeeper. Kind and gentle, with a ready smile, she loved to chat with anyone walking beside her on the trail.

Babeth and Aline walking under a distinctly dangerous looking tree near Oyré.

Walking, Vienne, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

She will be missed by everyone in the group, and our hearts go out to her husband Fabrice and their (adult) children.

Wednesday, 27 September 2023

Saving a Stone Stag

On a recent visit to the Chateau Royal d'Amboise I encountered a young stone conservator busy working on the limestone stag's head from the frieze over the door of the Chapel of Saint Hubert.

It takes a lot of concentration...

Conservator working on a carving, Amboise, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

She was carefully removing a layer of plaster from part of the stag's head with a dental drill. She explained to us that the plaster was a 19C repair, to join the face of the stag on to the back of the head. At some time in the 19th century a pair of metal antlers were inserted into the head too. Both these materials were guaranteed to give future problems because they react badly with the limestone. As part of the current major restoration of the Chapel she was tasked with sorting it out a hundred years later.

 

This is the type of material being removed from the old join...

Conservator working on a carving, Amboise, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
I asked her how she was going to reinsert the antlers. She told me that the head would be glued back together and the antlers would be sunk into a pocket of resin. The new materials will not react with the old so there shouldn't be any more damage caused by rusting metal.

 

The pieces go back together like this...

Conservator working on a carving, Amboise, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

Tuesday, 26 September 2023

A Gobelins Tapestry

By far the most famous of the French tapestry weaving workshops is Gobelins. Originally, in the mid 15th century, Gobelins was not a weaving manufacturer but a family of textile dyers who set up an establishment in what is now the 13th arrondissement of Paris. In the early 17th century Henri IV moved a team of Flemish tapestry weavers in and 1662 Jean-Baptiste Colbert bought the place on behalf of his royal master Louis XIV.

Colbert transformed the workshops into a multidisciplined affair, housing every possible trade required for making ornate highly decorated furniture for royal residences and gifts. After 30 years the money ran out and after a brief closure the factory reverted to just making tapestries.

The kidnapping of Helen of Troy, Gobelins tapestry, Chateau of Cheverny, Loir et Cher, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.

In effect the factory still exists, as the state run Mobiliers national (part of the Manufacture nationale network) which showcases the French heritage of decorative arts and trades, provides training for weavers and conservators and perhaps most important of all, is one of the few places you can send a tapestry for cleaning and repair.

The Gobelins tapestry above hangs in the Arms Room at Cheverny and depicts the kidnapping of Helen by Paris. Apparently it has never been restored, so it is certainly a remarkable survival and a credit to the diligent collections care the family and staff undertake. Normally tapestries require considerable conservation work to ensure that aged fibres weakened by exposure to light do not simply tear themselves apart due to the tapestry's own weight.

Although this tapestry shows the typical overall yellowing that is the visible clue that the fibres are degrading, the dye colours have proved quite robust. All the dyes used in tapestries up until the mid 19th century are made from naturally occuring substances - mostly plant based, like indigo, but occasionally animal based, such as coccinelle. These dyes vary considerably in their fastness, and their effect on the wool threads they colour. The various mordants used to fix the dye can affect the lifespan of the weft differently too. Some colours stay bright and the fibre strong, others fade or rot very quickly.

Gobelins perfected hundreds of dyes, but one of the reasons tapestries often have a blue caste is because there was no good natural leaf or grass green. Bright greens were produced by overdying blue and yellow. The yellow vegetable dyes were not particularly lightfast, and soon faded. The blue however, was indigo, and very persistant. The more foliage in a tapestry, the bluer it looks today.

Because of the 'stop - start' way tapestries are woven each colour forms a discrete unit. The slits between the colours are hand stitched together, but if this stitching fails the tapestry develops 'fault lines'. Tapestries are tremendously heavy and any weak areas tend to just rip apart because of the stresses. Workshops like the modern Gobelins have the facilities to take these huge objects and consolidate the fragile textiles so they can be enjoyed on chateaux walls for another generation.

Monday, 25 September 2023

Cheats Confit de Canard


Cooked and photographed by Susan from Loire Valley Time Travel. https://tourtheloire.com

Traditional confit de canard (slow cooked duck) requires large quantities of duck fat. Although you can reuse the fat because it hasn't been heated up very much, I find it is far more than I would normally use and it tends to just go off in the fridge before I get to it. I've also on one occasion had a disaster where the liquid fat overflowed on our wood stove, ruining a rug and causing a fire hazard. So for many years I have used Sally Schneider's 'revisionist' technique, where the duck is cured overnight in the traditional way to reduce moisture and impart flavour, but is then cooked in its own juices, sealed in a foil parcel in a low oven for two hours. The flavour and texture is very similar and I don't have all that fat to deal with.

Cooked and photographed by Susan from Loire Valley Time Travel. https://tourtheloire.com

Curing Ingredients
2 tbsp coarse salt
10 juniper berries
1 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
3/4 tsp dried thyme
A bay leaf
6 allspice berries
1/2 tsp coriander seeds
1/2 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp dried garlic flakes
1 tsp eau de vie

Method
  1. Grind all the dry ingredients of the curing mix in a mortar and pestle. 
  2. Rub the duck legs with eau de vie, then with the curing mix. You will need a tablespoon of curing mix for every 500 g of duck legs. The eau de vie will help dry the skin out, and it is a technique you can use for enhancing the flavour of any poultry (very useful for turning industrially farmed chicken into something more savoury and farmhouse).
  3. Leave to cure overnight in the fridge (can be left for longer).
  4. Heat the oven to 150C.
  5. Pat the duck legs dry with kitchen paper towel and prick the skin in a number of places.
  6. Arrange the duck legs on one half of a long piece of foil, fold over the other half and fold the edges to seal.
  7. Put the parcel on a baking tray and cook in the oven for 2 hours.
  8. Take the duck out of the foil. You can use the duck immediately or store in the fridge or freezer for later.

Cooked and photographed by Susan from Loire Valley Time Travel. https://tourtheloire.com

I tend to make in batches so some is eaten immediately and some frozen. One batch of curing mix will do 4 - 6 duck legs. 

Cooked and photographed by Susan from Loire Valley Time Travel. https://tourtheloire.com

Duck legs are one of the by-products of foie gras production and are often very reasonably priced.

Cooked and photographed by Susan from Loire Valley Time Travel. https://tourtheloire.com

I harvested the juniper berries for the curing mix from wild juniper growing locally on the hillsides here.

Cooked and photographed by Susan from Loire Valley Time Travel. https://tourtheloire.com