Friday, 18 July 2025

"I will rest pleasantly here"

Louise Marie Madeleine Guillaume de Fontaine, known as Madame Dupin after her marriage, was born in Paris in 1706 and died at the Chateau de Chenonceau in 1799.

Famous for her beauty and her lively femininity, Louise Dupin was a celebrity during the Enlightenment, and ran a glittering literary salon. She is the step-great-grandmother of the author George Sand (real name Aurore Dupin).

 

Approaching the Chateau de Chenonceau.

Chateau de Chenonceau, France.

Louise Dupin was one of the pioneers of the feminist movement. She worked tenaciously for ten years on a history which brought forgotten women back into focus, aided by her secretary, Jean-Jacques Rousseau. She advocated equality, access to knowledge and marital freedom. She suggested that marriage should be a temporary or renewable contract. She attacked civil marriage as unfair, and was in favour of priests marrying.

Louise was the first of three illegitimate daughters of the banker Samuel Bernard and Marie Anne Armande Carton Dancourt, known as Manon, who was the daughter of well known actors.

 

A portrait of  Louise Dupin by Nattier hanging in one of the salons in the Chateau de Chenonceau. I think this would have been painted to commemorate her betrothal so she is about 16 years old in this portrait.

Portrait of louise Dupin by Nattier, France.

Both sides of her family were wealthy and Protestant in origin, and her father's family were the descendents of Dutch merchants. Her mother's family came from Picardy and were Huguenot gentlefolk. Both families, who were rising rapidly in the world, could see which way the wind was blowing, and renounced their Protestantism well before the Edict of Nantes. Both her natural father and her mother's husband were happy to acknowledge Louise as their own, and she had half siblings who were the children of her mother and her mother's husband.

She and her sisters were known as The Three Graces, but Louise seems to have been the star -- the most beautiful, the most intelligent, the best liked and the least prone to getting into awkward scrapes. She was educated in a convent and was clearly an eager student. But any thoughts of an academic life would have been suppressed. She was always destined to become a wife and mother.

 

The tomb of Louise Dupin.

Tomb of louise Dupin, France.

Her natural father decided to offer her in marriage to his protegé Claude Dupin, from Chateauroux. The link between the two men came about because Dupin had offered hospitality to an elderly relative of Bernard's when she became ill whilst travelling. Dupin even went to the extent of accompanying the old woman back to Paris once she was well enough to travel again, and Bernard was much impressed. Dupin was in his forties and widowed with a six year old son. Louise was sixteen.

Thanks to his father in law Dupin's career took off, and he became one of Louis XIV's super rich tax farmers, and he was granted a minor noble title. The couple had a son, and invest in a good deal of real estate, including the Hotel Lambert in Paris and the Chateau de Chenonceau, which they purchased from the Duke of Bourbon. The most important property they acquired was the Chateau de Naillac in Le Blanc, which with its land, the entire town, and fishponds, was worth four times the Chateau de Chenonceau.

 

The tomb of Louise Dupin.

Tomb of louise Dupin, France.

 

Louise was the perfect society hostess, charming and beguiling both aristocrats and intellectuals. She welcomed many of the great names of the Enlightenment, such as Voltaire (who describes her in glowing terms), Montesquieu (with whom the Dupins eventually fell out), Buffon, and Rousseau (who embarrassed himself by declaring mad passionate but entirely unrequited love for Louise). Only the jealous hostess of a rival salon has anything bad to say about her. These salons provided an essential network for the diffusion of ideas and the progression of science, philosophy and politics.

Every year the Dupins spent the autumn at Chenonceau. Louise, being from a family of actors, was passionate about the theatre, and so she set up a small theatre in the southern end of the first floor gallery over the river. She also sponsored less fortunate women and children (including the wife of Rousseau and his abandoned children) and advocated for the education of girls. In her opinion women should have access to employment in the public service and to jobs considered exclusively for men.

Sadly her own son caused her considerable worry. He was a gambler and lost a fortune, obliging his parents to pay his debt. Finally they sent him away to a tropical island colony, where he died of Yellow Fever. His illegitimate daughter was lovingly raised by her grandmother and was one of Louise's principle heirs.

 

The Chateau de Chenonceau.

Chateau de Chenonceau, France.

Claude Dupin died in 1769 and Louise received the Chateau of Chenonceau, the Chateau de Naillac le Blanc estate, and a town house in Paris as her share of the estate. Later, because of the political upheaval of the Revolution she moved permanently from Paris to Chenonceau. Like most of her friends she left Paris the day after the storming of the Bastille, but unlike many of her friends she chose to stay in France. Tucked away in the Touraine countryside she dedicated herself to raising the children, legitimate and illegitimate, of relatives who had been executed. She also ensured that the Chateau was not looted or seized as State property.

In the last year of her life she sponsored a promising young local medical student called Pierre Bretonneau. He went on to become a household name in France, and one of the hospitals in Tours is named after him.

She died at Chenonceau at the age of 93. Her instructions as to what was to happen on the occasion of her death are very clear. She was not to be buried immediately, probably out of fear of being buried alive. She had chosen a place in the woods in the grounds of the Chateau on the southern side of the river Cher, and specified that her coffin was to be of simple pine. She felt that she could 'rest pleasantly here'.

Thursday, 17 July 2025

A New Toy

.... but an old passion.

Anyone who knew me back in the day would tell you that music was my thing. I played my first professional concert when I was 16, and didn't stop with the music in some professional or semi-professional capacity until 30 years later.

And then I stopped.

Recently though, I have thought that I really should use the skills (and equipment) I accumulated in that time. So naturally, the first thing I did was buy a new guitar, just to motivate me. Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy a guitar, and that's the same thing.


It's an acoustic bass guitar, made in either Indonesia or China. I am amazed at the quality of cheap guitars compared with 50 years ago. The materials are excellent, all the frets are in the right places, and it's put together well. It did need the standard fettling (truss rod adjusted, the bridge and nut recut, and the frets dressed) but even expensive instruments can need that. I didn't feel confident doing that work myself, so we visited the luthier in Loches. (More on that later).

I don't have any calluses on my fingers, and my muscle memory is a bit dodgy, but I'm surprised at how quickly it's coming back to me.

I'll let you know how it's going.


Wednesday, 16 July 2025

Through the Ages

Here are pictures of us at the Tour de France, as seen by the TV cameras.

2008

2009

2021

2023

2025

All the other times the camera has missed us, but I think we're getting better at choosing our locations.

Tuesday, 15 July 2025

Low Food Miles Apples

Our ComCom (Communauté de communes Loches Sud Touraine) has joined a network to allow small local producers to distribute within our local area more efficiently. The platform, which originated in Lyon, is called la Charrette ('the cart'). It connects and matches producers, distributors and social canteens (schools, aged care facilities, etc).

 

Tony at the market in Preuilly with organic apples.

Organic apples at a market in France.

In the Sud Touraine 80% of consumers do most of their food shopping at the supermarket. The supermarkets do sell local produce, 'playing the game'. However, most supermarket shoppers may like the idea of 'local' but are motivated by other concerns when spending. 

There are exceptions within the supermarket franchises, with several managers of local supermarkets convinced of the value of stocking local produce. They've done deals with nearby breweries, dairy co-operatives, orchards and graziers. They acknowlege it takes more time, and the products have to be carefully positioned, but they find it rewarding both personally and financially.

 

Sandy at the market in Preuilly with organic apples.

Organic apples at a market in France.

Buying 'local' is an act of political and social responsibility. Thus the local authority is keen to encourage and facilitate it.

I buy my organic apples from local orchardists Tony and Sandy, who own Fruit Ô Kalm, just outside of town. They deliver a small part of their production to the primary school canteen in Yzeures sur Creuse. Tony says that when he delivers €50 worth of apples to the school, it's not really financially rewarding, but it's about contributing to the education of the kids, and acting on his and Sandy's personal values. Tony and Sandy's fruit can now also be found at Saveurs Lochoises, thanks to the ComCom's new network. He's happy, but if he could sell enough in Loches he would not bother to go all the way to Tours to sell his produce. Distributing his own produce several times a week is really time consuming, and can be expensive. The new network can help with that, bringing producers together so they can share deliveries. At the moment there are 80 members of the network.

 

Bus stop advertisement for Centre-Val de Loire produce.

Advertisment for Centre-Val de loire produce, France.

Tony and Sandy are already used to working with similar networks and use the regional network Bio Centre-Val de Loire to get their produce to Paris. It costs them €150 per pallet, but it's worth it when that is transporting €2000 worth of produce.

The schools and other social canteens (Fr. restauration collective) are important drivers of the project, as since the beginning of last year they have to be working with good quality ingredients that are at least 50% from sustainable sources, and 20% organic.


Information from the ComCom newsletter No 12 été 2025.

Monday, 14 July 2025

Tour de France 2025

Yesterday the Tour de France came through Preuilly-sur-Claise. The town had decorated itself with banners, sculptures and beer tents, and was looking really festive. There was a number of costumed people, including Danes (of course) and Knights (!?). Everyone else but us was wearing free velux hats, as we obviously arrived too late.

We started the day with an early and somewhat hasty lunch at the guinguette with Niall, Antoinette and some of Niall's family. We then headed up to the abbey in time to see the caravan pass and gather some plunder. The caravan wasn't as extensive as previous years, but that means we have less tat to deal with. Having said that, I gained a really useful combination key-ring/supermarket trolley token holder. Hooray for useful tat!



After that excitement we rehydrated and had a sit down, and watched the approaching cyclists on TV. You can either participate these events or take photos. This year we participated, so no photos of caravan or cyclists. Susan had our Australian flag, and I had a message for my Dad.

Susan, flag wrangling with assistance from Olivier's grandson

Beer tents and Danes. Not coincidence, I suspect.

Once the excitement was over we headed home, arriving just in time to watch the race on ITV's +1 service. Just as the bikes reached Preuilly they went to a life long ad break, only returning as the cyclists reached Bossay. Booo!!!!

Luckily, France TV came to the rescue. You should be able to see me, but they missed Susan.


We had an ace - but 34°C - hot day. Not as hot as it was for the cyclists, who averaged over 50km an hour for the 174 km race.

(If you click on the video, then click on the little square box bottom right, you should get the video full screen)

Saturday, 12 July 2025

Lamington

This is a proper sized lamington (don't worry, that's a side plate) photographed in Tenterfield, New South Wales.


As much as the idea appeals, we're not making lamingtons as snack food for watching the Tour de France tomorrow. Look for us and our Aussie flag as the Tour passes through Preuilly sur Claise.

Friday, 11 July 2025

What is so Special About the Tours Trams

When you are designing public transport, nothing is left to chance. Lighting warmth, the colour of metal grab bars, the texture of the seats, everything is considered and carefully designed. Passengers are 'nudged' into the desired behaviour by clever science and design. 

Tram in Tours, France.

The lighting in the trams in Tours is set to more 'warmth' in winter, and 'colder' in summer, which influences how comfortable passengers feel. Studies show that manipulating the light makes people perceive the temperature as nearly two degrees warmer or cooler.

Tram in Tours, France.

The trams in Tours are intended to look radical and different. They don't have headlights for example, but instead they've been fitted with two big vertical strips of lights, which act visually like an extension of the rails. The trams are the very incarnation of the City. The mirror surface created by polished steel and tinted glass is intended to play with the water flowing alongside in the Loire River, and reflect the surrounding landscape. 

Tram in Tours, France.

Inside there is a nod to the former industrial heritage of the City, which was one of the first producers of silk in France. The interiors reference a special silk called Gros de Tours, which was a particular shade of red. The red interiors of the trams give a sort of special Tours heritage corporate look, but they also create a warm and comfortable feeling.

Tram in Tours, France.

Tram design is not just about making them attractive. It must also correspond with the identity of the City. It's a subtle piece of territorial marketing.

Wednesday, 9 July 2025

Train!!

Susan often laughs at how excited I am when I see a train, and she is probably justified in doing so.

So imagine my surprise when she got excited and called "train!!" as we were driving to the dermo's about a month ago. She was justified though - it was a train travelling from Loches to Tours, and although we have lived here for over 16 years, we have never seen a train on the line. The lack of trains has been a source of discontent for many years.

However, we have now seen a train on the line to Loches, and here is a photo to prove it.



Last year SNCF experimented with a hydrogen powered train on this line, but that only lasted a month. This train consisted of two X73500 class diesel railcars.

Tuesday, 8 July 2025

Changeable

Normally we would be expecting weather like this in April. These photos were taken 25 minutes apart yesterday afternoon. Just as it looked as if the heavy rain was setting in, it stopped.




Which is a pity, because we could do with some rain.

Monday, 7 July 2025

A New French Phrase

 A new term for me: "Sans exhausteur de goût" = "no added flavour enhancers".

Cordon bleu, France.

Although I could guess from the context I was curious enough to ask the checkout operator what an 'exhausteur de goût' was. Her response was that 'c'est quelque chose qui ramène du goût'. Then a shrug, and she added 'c'est chimique'. Literally, 'it's something that brings back flavour. It's chemical.'

The product in question, for those of you wondering, is thin slices of turkey breast wrapped around slices of ham and cheese, then crumbed. It's really intended for children I think, not really considered a grown up's meal in this cheap and cheerful version. The portion size is certainly small anyway. I buy them occasionally because I can do them in the air fryer and have a quick light cheap meal for the two of us, served with steamed veggies.

Sunday, 6 July 2025

Saturday, 5 July 2025

Aussie Moth

In contrast to yesterday's moth, photographed in our salon, this is an Australian Hawk Moth.

Hippotion scrofa is about twice the size of yesterday's moth, a fairly hefty beast with a 70mm wingpspan. It's found in Australia, New Caledonia and Vanuatu. Susan photographed this one in the Australian Alps last year.


I identified it using ChatGPT. If you use the right prompts, it's quite a useful tool.

Friday, 4 July 2025

Night Visitors

During the recent warm spell we have had our windows open at night to cool the house down. This works really well, but it does get fluttery.


I don't know what this medium sized (about 3cm across) moth is, but it's quite pretty. Most of the other moths (and there are a lot of them) are quite plain.


Thursday, 3 July 2025

The Pieta of Jean Fouquet

Nouans Les Fontaines is a tiny village in the middle of nowhere. And yet it holds a great medieval treasure. In the church, behind the altar, in the space it was created for, is a large 15th century painting. The church is open to all who know of the painting's existence and who want to see it. 

 

The church in Nouans les Fontaines.

Church, Nouans les Fontaines, France.

Just recently I was passing and had time so I popped in. I was not the only person who had done the same. The two men already there knew it well and we had a lovely chat.

 

Detail of the priest's hands.

Detail in the Pieta by jean Fouquet, Nouans les Fontaines, France.

Jean Fouquet was a native of Tours. He was a painter, illuminator, miniaturist and highly regarded portraitist. Today, in art historian circles, he is recognised as one of the greatest creatives of his age. Outside of art history though he is forgotten.

 

Detail of the priest's robe.

Detail of the priest's robe in the Pieta by Jean Fouquet, Nouans les Fontaines, France.

At the confluence of influences coming from the Flemish and Tuscan artists who dominated European painting at this time, his art profoundly changed French painting of the 15th century.

 

Detail, showing Joseph of Arimathea, Christ, John the Evangelist and the Virgin Mary.

Detail of the Pieta by Jean Fouquet, Nouans les Fontaines, France.

Several versions of the story of the origins of this painting exist, but it was probably commissioned by the unknown white robed canon (priest) on the right in about 1450. It was rediscovered in 1911 by Paul Vitry, Curator of Sculpture at the Louvre, who came from the Touraine. The painting at that point was situated in the tribune of the church.

 

Pieta by Jean Fouquet (dimensions 2.36 m x 1.47 m).

Pieta by Jean Fouquet, Nouans les Fontaines, France.

 Paul Vitry only brought the painting to the attention of the authorities in 1931, and it was very quickly classified as a historic monument. Then in 1932 it was shown in London as part of a major exhibition of French art.

 

The interior of the church, with the painting behind the altar.

Church interior, Nouans les Fontaines, France.

The painting was fully restored in 1980 by the Museums of France Research Laboratory, before an exhibition at the Louvre of the works of Jean Fouquet in 1981.


Wednesday, 2 July 2025

The Origin of la Carotte de Tabac

Most newsagents in France have a bright orange red elongated diamond shaped sign with flashing lights hung above their door. In white letters down the middle it says 'TABAC'. What does it all mean?!

Since 1906 bureaux de tabac (shops selling tobacco) have been obliged to display the carrot sign to show they sell tobacco. But why?

 

The 'carrot' in Veigné.

'Carrot' tobacco sign, France.

 

One of the explanations of the origins of this symbol that you will often hear is that being stored with a carrot allowed tobacco to keep better. And it is true that people did put a piece of carrot in their tobacco tin to keep it fresh. But this isn't the real explanation for the sign.

The 'carrot' has evolved over time. Initially it wasn't necessarily orange. It was sometimes brown. Today it has to be shiny and illuminated.

 

The 'carrot' in Preuilly sur Claise.

'Carrot' tobacco sign, France.

 

The number of newsagents selling tobacco is decreasing, and especially in rural areas the 'carrot' is disappearing. Newsagents today often want to modernise their offerings and don't necessarily want to sell tobacco. Today there are 24 000 newsagents in France, down from 49 000 in 1970. Those that still exist have done so by following the trends of what their customers want.

The real origin of the shape of the sign comes from how tobacco was sold in the 16th century. In those days tobacco was sold as leaves that you chewed or smoked. The leaves were not attached to their stalks, but in rolls that were wrapped in calico and tightly wound round with string in a way that made them resemble carrots. In order to use the tobacco one grated the 'carrot'. Later, the form changed to cigars and cigarettes, but the carrot symbol for shops stuck.

The first tobacco shops in France opened in 1716. The French ambassador to Portugal, Jean Nicot, had introduced it to France and grew it in his own garden more than a century earlier. He gave powdered tobacco (snuff) to Catherine de Medici, to give to her son François II to cure his migraines in 1560. At the time, tobacco was often called the 'Queen's herb' or 'Nicot's herb', and was considered medicinal and drunk as a tisane (herbal tea).

In 1906 it became a legal obligation to display a 'carotte de tabac' outside any shop selling tobacco. The 'carrot' must be illuminated and in the shape of a diamond. It has to be either red, or tricolour (red, white and blue), and can contain the word 'tabac'.

These days the carotte de tabac is part of French cultural heritage.


Tuesday, 1 July 2025

The Noisiest Time of the Day

I was up at 6:30 this morning, opening up the house in an effort to get it cooler before the sun kicks in. As I went around opening the ground floor doors and windows it occurred to me how noisy it was.

In addition to the usual suspects - sparrows, collared doves, poultry, blackbirds and the like, there is at least two sets of farm machinery working the fields above town, and the roofers who are working at the top of the street have just rattled past. 

Preuilly, this morning.

By midday all of this will have stopped. The birds will be hiding, the farmers will be inside, the roofers will have stopped work, and all our windows and shutters will be firmly closed against the heat. I haven't yet seen any prohibitions on farm work, but they can't be long in coming.


At the moment (7:00am) it's about 20°C outside, with the slightest of breezes. Inside it's slightly warmer, but once the outside temperature reaches 21° we'll be shutting the house up in attempt to keep the house bearable.



Only another two days of this, and the maximum temperature will drop to mid 30s. It'll feel like a cold snap.

Monday, 30 June 2025

Oysters at the Guinguette

Our guinguette (riverside summer pop up bar) Le Lavoir knows how to pull in the crowds. Recently we went down for their special oyster service. The oysters themselves were amongst the best we've ever had, and the condiments were good too. Normally I just have oysters nature (plain), but the shallot vinegar and the citrusy dressing were both excellent and both enhanced rather than overpowered. 

 

Opening oysters as fast as he can. The bowls contain condiments -- 'caviar', citrus, shallot vinegar.

Oyster bar, France.

The oysters came from the Ile de Ré, off the Atlantic coast, raised and served by the Dealer d'Iode (chasseur d'huitres) https://dealerdiode.com/. Guinguette Sommelier Louise was taking orders and serving a carefully chosen white wine. The oyster farmers are fifth generation and the family have been producing oysters since 1920. As ever when I've had really good oysters, they were not large. These ones had a very impressive algal fringe too.

 

 Louise taking orders, customers taking their oysters. The little bottles contain smoked vinegar.

Oyster bar, France.

COVID was a real turning point for the business, and they decided to develop oyster bars and host events and visits.

To keep up with the guinguette's news, follow Guinguette Le Lavoir on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/guinguettelelavoir/

Friday, 27 June 2025

It's Hot

And it's going to be hot for a week to come.

This past week the daily high temperature has been somewhere between 30°C and 38°C, and the minimums between 17°C and 22°C. To keep the temperature in the house tolerable we keep the windows open overnight, and close them in the morning when the outside temperature is higher than the inside temperature. This is working well, the temperature in the house remaining between 22°C and 24°C.

The forecast for the coming week at 08:50 this morning

The western wall of our house is also unfortunately the longest wall. It absorbs a lot of heat directly from the sun, and as there is no shade and we're surrounded by roads and buildings, heat reflected from hard surfaces. The temperature there can be really toasty, and unfortunately this is the temperature of the air that enters the house if we open the back door.

This was the back door temperature on Friday last week.

The insulation installed last year is really doing its job. Whereas in previous heatwaves the heat absorbed by the western wall has raised the temperature in the bedroom to the level where we can't sleep, this year (with the aid of a fan) the temperature hasn't yet been an issue.

For those of you still dealing in the old money here's a converter.

Thursday, 26 June 2025

Twelve Months Ago

A year ago today I had my prostate removed. No photos, because no-one needs that.

My treatment continues because the operation didn't 100% solve the problem. Now my kidney stones have been attended to I have another trip through the atomic donut scheduled, followed by 7 weeks of radiotherapy.

Gentlemen, get checked. It may seem undignified, but the alternative is much worse.




Wednesday, 25 June 2025

Tour de France Banner

 

Tour de France banner, France.

Local textile artist Daniele Deletang has produced a 4 metre x 5 metre banner in patchwork to celebrate the passage of the Tour de France through Preuilly sur Claise on 13 July this year. It is hanging from the front of the gallery she and her husband curate. Very conveniently it is situated directly in front of the bridge the riders must cross, before they turn hard right around the Abbaye and head for Bossay sur Claise. 

Tour de France banner, France.

It's in lovely bright colours and very much in the spirit of the race. I hope it gets lots of air time when the helicopters come through to do their travelogue shots.

Tuesday, 24 June 2025

Christ is Re-Risen

Back in April I was out with Les Galoches walking group from Yzeures sur Creuse and we passed a large stone cairn at an intersection. I asked what it was, which resulted in gales of laughter.

The plinth in April.Plinth for crucifix, France.

The cairn is a plinth for a crucifix. Yzeures sur Creuse hosts a very successful rock festival every year in the summer. I'm told that last year, during the festival, a somewhat inebriated young man seeking to impress his girlfriend climbed the plinth and hung off the cross, which promptly came crashing to the ground.

The newly repaired crucifix.Roadside crucifix, France.

Local social media groups apparently had a good deal to say about it, of the 'young people today!' variety, but it seems that the young man was instantly mortified, and first thing the next morning, turned himself in. He went to the town hall to 'fess up, and they were completely sympathetic. They commented that the metal rod fixing the crucifix to the plinth was so badly rusted that they already had it on their list to deal with. In their view the young man was just unfortunate and they were glad no one was seriously hurt. The crucifix has now been repaired and is in tip top condition for further festival highjinks next month...