Saint John's Baptistry, Poitiers

Saint John's Baptistry (Fr. Baptistère Saint-Jean) in Poitiers is an ancient Christian monument which dates back to the second half of the 4th century or beginning of the 5th century. Much altered over the centuries it is a building which demonstrates better than any other both the links between antiquity and Merovingian architecture, and their abandonment of classical principles.

 

Christ in Majesty fresco.

Saved from demolition in 1834 it has seen numerous archaeological digs and been the subject of many controversial theories. Since 1750 the building has divided those who believe it to be a Christian edifice, and those who favour a pagan origin. As a result it also serves to demonstrate the evolution of archaeology and its limits, from romantic and intuitive art history to the establishment of technical models.

The interest and the work undertaken on the building seems to show the will to safeguard this strong symbol of the Christian presence in the city since Antiquity. After the Revolution, saved from destruction, it became the object of scientific research, as well as being important cultural heritage.

 

Baptismal pool.

Situated in a district that was occupied from the 1st century by dwellings and tradesmen, little by little the area was transformed in the 4th century. The development of the town pushed the centre of spiritual power to the north, on the edge of the ancient town limits. A cathedral complex was constructed during the second half of the 4th century. At the moment when towns were christianising, the cathedral and the baptistry became indispensible.

The current building was constructed in the 5th century, over a baptismal room, to the east of the early cathedral.

 

Interior.

The baptistry was altered throughout the 6th and 7th centuries. Originally it was just a large rectangular room with a small annex to the east. The original design is not very typical of baptistries. There is a central baptismal pool which is fed by water through lead pipes, and emptied via a terracotta drain into a soak away.

In the 6th century the baptistry interior was divided into two by a wall, and two rectangular apses added. They went on to become trapezoidal, then semi-circular. 

 

 Frescoes.

We don't know how high the bapistry originally was, but it was raised in the first half of the 7th century and three annexes in front of the building were demolished. Windows were replaced by oculi and the interior dividing wall was decorated with three arches. Then the roof profile was modified and gables added.

In 1018 a fire ravaged the city and damaged a large part of the cathedral complex. A new cathedral in the Romanesque style was constructed to the north.

 

 Lapidary collection.

In the Carolignian era, when baptism no longer required immersion, the baptistry was turned into a church. The first mention of  the baptistry in the written records is not until 1096, and then it is not mentioned again until 1450, when a request is made to repair it as it is in very bad condition.

The wall paintings were added in the 11th and 13th centuries.

 

Baptistry front entry.

In modern times the baptistry was a tiny parish church, with 25 parishioners taking communion. Births, deaths and marriages were only recorded from 1638 onwards. The church was deconsecrated in 1791 and the building put up for sale as seized State Goods, but there was no buyer because of its delapidated condition. It remained the property of the State, and became a soup kitchen. In 1820 the space was taken over by a bell foundry and they used the baptismal pool, with a bit of modification, as a bell mould. In the early 19th century a big road building project to improve access to the city threatened the little baptistry, but its cause was championed by several learned societies, and it was saved. It is still managed by one of those societies, the Antiquarians Society of the West.

There have been a dozen archaeological digs on the site since the early 19th century. In 1803 the octagonal baptismal pool was discovered. The more recent studies have concentrated on the exterior.

 

Baptistry side view.