Monday 11 October 2021

How to Cook Ceps


Ceps (also known as porcini in Italian and cèpes in French) start popping up in the forests in October. Many locals collect their own, and those with a license to do so collect them commercially, so you can buy them in the market during the season. Bay-brown Bolete retails for about €600 per kilo. Depending on the weather, some years they are abundant, some years they are scarce.

Bay-brown Bolete.
Bay-brown Bolete Xerocomus badius.  Indre et Loire, France. Photographed by Susan Walter. Tour the Loire Valley with a classic car and a private guide.

There are three main species, closely related, that are the most prized -- Edible Cep Boletus edulis (Fr. Cèp de Bordeaux); Bay-brown Bolete Xerocomus badius (Fr. Bolet bai); and Dark Bolete Boletus aereus (Fr. Tête de negre). There are other related species, also edible, but generally referred to as boletes, and usually just used to bulk out the better species.

Bay-brown Bolete, showing the spongey underside of the cap.
Bay-brown Bolete Xerocomus badius, showing tubes and pores under cap.  Indre et Loire, France. Photographed by Susan Walter. Tour the Loire Valley with a classic car and a private guide.

To prepare them to eat, brush the caps off, remove the stems and discard (or use in a dish where they will be pureed with other things), check for slugs. Remove the spongey pores and tubes under the cap by pushing at it gently with your thumb. This sponge is full of water and not very nice to eat.

Slices of Bay-brown Bolete laid out to dry.
A Bay Bolete sliced and drying before cooking.  Indre et Loire, France. Photographed by Susan Walter. Tour the Loire Valley with a classic car and a private guide.

Slice the mushrooms and discard any bits that have maggots. Spread out in a single layer on a tea towel or paper towel and leave overnight. This dries them out a bit and means they don't produce too much water when cooked. At this point they can be bagged and frozen, dried on low heat in the oven or in a dehydrator, or cooked immediately.

Dark Bolete.
Dark Bolete Boletus aereus.  Indre et Loire, France. Photographed by Susan Walter. Tour the Loire Valley with a classic car and a private guide.

To cook fresh or from frozen, melt a knob of butter and a dash of olive oil in a frying pan on medium high heat. Add the mushrooms to the pan, along with a pinch of salt, some ground pepper and crushed garlic. Fry for 3-4 minutes, tossing or stirring frequently. Tip off any liquid the mushrooms have released. You can add some cream and chopped parsley at this point, and serve with grilled steak.

Edible Cep in the Forest of Montgoger.
Edible Cep Boletus edulis.  Indre et Loire, France. Photographed by Susan Walter. Tour the Loire Valley with a classic car and a private guide.

A basket of boletes gathered in the Forest of Preuilly.
A basket of boletes gathered in the forest.  Indre et Loire, France. Photographed by Susan Walter. Tour the Loire Valley with a classic car and a private guide.

Ceps foraged in the Forest of Preuilly waiting to be prepared in our kitchen.
Ceps foraged in the forest waiting to be prepared.  Indre et Loire, France. Photographed by Susan Walter. Tour the Loire Valley with a classic car and a private guide.



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2 comments:

Jean said...

You lost me at slugs and maggots.

bonnie groves poppe said...

Very timely! I bought some at the Carpentras market last week and very sensibly look up how to cook them, so didn't totally mess up. A couple of days ago I did a little foraging, mostly on my own property, and found a couple of different boletes. Again, being very sensible, I took them to the pharmacist .... and .... not edible! Not deadly, but better not to eat them. I find the boletes difficult to tell apart, depending on which ones they are.
bonnie near carpentras

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