Thursday, 31 July 2025

Merovingian Sarcophagi in Poitiers

Merovingian sarcophagi, France.

The Society of Antiquarians of the West and the City of Poitiers considered that the Baptistry of Saint John was an appropriate place to keep their collection of Merovingian sarcophagi and the State agreed. In 1838 the Baptistry became the Museum of Antiquities of the West and was opened to the public. 

Merovingian sarcophagus lid, France.

Most of the sarcophagi were added to the collection in 1885, and come from Vienne and Deux-Sèvres, dating from the 6th, 7th and 8th centuries. The intention had originally been that they should go to the Museum of French Monuments in Paris, but the transfer never happened.

Merovingian sarcophagus lid, France.

So the little Baptistry is blessed with a rich and extensive collection of Merovingian sarcophagi. Many of them are decorated with the three barred cross in the Poitevin style. Scholars are still debating what this symbol means. Does it stand for the Trinity, or is it purely decorative? A few rarer pieces have zoomorphic or anthropomorphic decorations, with birds and people visible on some examples. There are lots of heavily worked geometric patterns, vegetative designs and rosettes ornamenting the sarcophagi covers.

Merovingian sarcophagi, France.

The sarcophagi are made from local stone, and usually trapezoidal in shape. Any that are rectangular are reused ancient coffins. Perhaps the most unusual piece is the double sarcophagi found at Saint Pierre des Eglises, decorated with cushions cut into the stone. 

Merovingian sarcophagi, France.

Further Reading: My blog post on  The Merovingian Necropolis at Civaux.

Simon's blog post on  The Baptistère de Saint-Jean, Poitiers.

Wednesday, 30 July 2025

What sort of Salle?

This is the salle polyvalente in Sacierges-Saint-Martin. Why it is that rather than a salle des fêtes or a salle des associations I don't know. What I do know is that Sacierges-Saint-Martin is a small village with a new salle polyvalente that has a medieval arrow slot built into the wall.



Tuesday, 29 July 2025

Saint-Benoît-du-Sault

Saint-Benoît-du-Sault is a medieval village, perched in a curve on a rocky butte overlooking the Portefeuille River in the former province of Berry. Since 1988, it has been a Plus Beaux Village de France.

We went there last Thursday, after our damp picnic lunch. This means we weren't 100% in exploring mode, and it started to rain soon after we arrived. Thus, we only have photos of a few of the buildings, but we will be going back.

The gatehouse into the centre of the medieval town, which has a belfry attached.



There are dozens of medieval houses. This one caught the eye.


This is the rue du Portugal, although in the direction away from Portugal.


Some of these photos are courtesy of my cousin Linda. She was able to take photos because she was wearing a raincoat, whereas I was doing umbrella wrangling.

Monday, 28 July 2025

Picnic in the Rain

Last Thursday we visited some of the painted churches of the Anglin Valley. We packed a picnic just in case the weather was ok, and were in Prissac when lunchtime arrived and we thought we'd take a chance.

Prissac has a lovely picnic area next to an etang, with plenty of picnic tables, so we chose one under a tree (there was the possibility of a shower, but no storm) and set out our food. At which stage the rain hammered down. We waited at the table just long enough to get soaking wet, then packed up and ran to the car. (In the process of packing the table tipped up and deposited me on my back, but no damage was done except to my dignity).

Anyway - here's our picnic. You can't see the bread, but we had four types of cheese, tomatoes, olives, pickled onions (home made), smoked beef, terrine, hummus, and fresh fruit. And lashings of ginger beer.


We located to a picnic shelter that was being vacated by a couple of white van men (and their microwave oven). We would have started there but there was only one table in the shelter, and you hate to impose. It's an excellent shelter, with running water, a sink, and a couple of working power points.



Apart from soaked clothing it was a most successful picnic. The shelter needs more tables - and it would be nice if they were stable - but apart from that, excellent.


Sunday, 27 July 2025

Memorial to the Rafle de Loches

This memorial plaque has been a long time coming. It says:

"Remember the French arrested by the Gestapo on 27 July 1944 in the canton of Loches dead for their country in the German camps.

In this school, 58 men and 6 women lived their first day of suffering with calm, courage and dignity.

49 of them gave their life for your future, your happiness and your freedom."

 

The new memorial.

Memorial to the deportees, loches, France.

"27 July 1944:  Loches roundup.

On 27 July 1944, at dawn, Gestapo agents, accompanied by militiamen and German soldiers, came from Tours and took over the town. More than 200 people were arrested, at home and in the street. Suspected of helping the Resistance, they were gathered in the courtyard of the girls' school, on the corner of rue Alfred de Vigny and rue des Jeux.

Civilians, members of the police force, the Loches sub-préfet, gendarmes from Loches and the surrounding area, who had been ordered into town several days earlier, were taken captive. They were interrogated for part of the day.

The courtyard of the girls' school was turned into a prison. By the evening, 58 men and 6 women had not been released. They were taken to the detention centre in Tours then deported to the Nazi camps of Neuengamme and Ravensbrück, where the majority of them would meet their death.

This stele is a place of memory and recollection. It's also the last memorial grave of these victims of Nazism condemned to disappear in the 'Night and Fog' (Nacht und Nebel decree) in the deportation and extermination camps.

We must remember and never forget."

 

This side street is now called rue des Déportés.

Rue des deportées, loches, France.

The subsequent list of names and their professions shows first those who died, and then those who returned. 

Further Reading: Link to my previous blog post about the Rafle de Loches  https://daysontheclaise.blogspot.com/2024/08/le-rafle-de-loches.html

Saturday, 26 July 2025

Bleu d'Auvergne

I was excited to see this in the Coles supermarket in Manly. I was also "excited" by the price.


$84 per kilo is about 47€. We often buy exactly the same cheese at home in France for about €12 a kilogramme. It's makes a fairly regular appearance in our household as a very reliable inexpensive blue cheese - especially if it's in the anti-gaspillage (anti - waste food nearing it's end of display date) section at 30% off.

Friday, 25 July 2025

Berrichonne Churches

Yesterday we took cousin Linda and explored some churches south-east of le Blanc. Here's three photos.

The seven deadly sins

I don't know why, but this made me smile


The Three Living. The Three Dead have disappeared 



The plan is to write about each church in turn at some stage in the future.

Thursday, 24 July 2025

Dinner at the Guinguette

My cousin Linda is in town, so in celebration of two special events we had dinner at the guinguette. Here is a slightly unkind photo.



Wednesday, 23 July 2025

Four-spotted Antlion

Twice this summer we have had pleasure of a visit by an uncommon and striking insect called a Four-spotted Antlion Distoleon tetragrammicus (Fr. Fourmilion longicorne). The adults look a bit like damselflies, but are much more sedentary. The juveniles are tiny ferocious predators that look like bits of bark with oversized jaws.

Four-spotted Antlion Distoleon tetragrammicus, France.

Antlions belong to the insect order Neuroptera, which includes lacewings and owlflies. The Antlions make up the family Myrmeleontidae.

Four-spotted Antlion Distoleon tetragrammicus, France.

Four-spotted antlions are present in southern Europe up to about Paris in the north, and in North Africa. 

Four-spotted Antlion Distoleon tetragrammicus, France.

They can be found during the day in open oak or pine woodland on dry calcareous hillsides, as well as nearby fallow land.

Four-spotted Antlion Distoleon tetragrammicus, France.

 The adults appear from June to August. The larvae, unlike other antlion species, do not dig funnel traps, but live in the dry leaf litter.

Tuesday, 22 July 2025

The Man Who Drew Angkor Wat

 

 There is a street in Loches named after him.

Street sign, France.

The naval officer, explorer, talented draftsman, curator and native of Loches, Louis Delaporte was the first to bring the temples at Angkor Wat and Khmer art to the attention of the French general public. Nowadays the temples are famous the world over and the site is UNESCO World Heritage listed. This year there is an exhibition honouring Delaporte in Loches, on the centenary of his death.

 

Louis Delaporte's Navy Lieutenant's uniform. This is for an adult, but it is modern young adolescent size.

Louis DeLaporte's uniform, France.

 

It was in Cochin, in 1866, when Louis Delaporte was recruited by Commander Doudart de Lagrée to join a mission up the Mekong. His skill with a pencil was surely what led to the young 24 year old sailor being appointed as cartographer and official artist on the mission. The aim was to establish the navigability of the river with a view to a possible commercial link with China. The French Navy convoy made a detour via the ruins of the temple of Angkor Wat. It was a revelation for the young man from Loches. Little did he know that these vestiges of the past virtually buried under the jungle would transform his life.

 

A cast made by Delaporte's team in 1881-82 of a low relief frieze from Angkor Wat. It shows a scene from the battle of  Lanka. The central character is the demon Ravana in his chariot. He has kidnapped Rama's wife and is being attacked by Rama's allies the monkeys.

Cast of a relief frieze from Angkor Wat.

The exhibition underlines how Delaporte's role was to record in 'photographic' detail the sculptures, the people, their way of life, the landscape, in pencil and watercolours. His talent was recognised from the age of 13, when his artistic skill permitted him to attend a special naval college, and then the naval school at Brest when he was 16. Two years later he was on an expedition to Mexico.

 

Two casts and a watercolour from Angkor Wat.

Casts and a watercolour from Delaporte's Angkor Wat collection.

This first expedition, and those that followed, were utterly fulfilling. Driven by his enthusiasm he produced many more drawings than his orders required. He was highly observant of his surroundings, and worked in a supportive environment, particularly in Asia. His curiosity is a legacy for future ethnographers.

 

Two casts of devata from the 12th century. Devata are female divinities and feature on many walls and columns at Angkor Wat. Often standing, bejewelled and serene, they have a protective role.

Casts from Angkor Wat.

Once he returned to France Delaporte contributed to a vast Atlas of Exploration published in 1873. He devoted the remainder of his life to his passion for Khmer architecture, and worked at the Museum of Indochina at the Trocadero. He left this job in 1924 at the age of 82.

 

The Delaporte family home in Loches.

Delaporte family home, France.


Drawings of Angkor Wat by Louis Delaporte.

Drawings of angkor Wat by Louis DeLaporte.


Watercolour of Angkor Wat by Louis Delaporte.

Watercolour of Angkor Wat by louis Delaporte.


Letters, notebook pages and other ephemera from the Louis Delaporte archive.

louis Delaporte ephemera.


Further Info: https://www.ville-loches.fr/exposition-angkor-louis-delaporte-article-3-10-147.html

Monday, 21 July 2025

Almonds in France

 Almond blossom (March).

Almond blossom, France.

The French consume a lot of nuts, and three sorts in particular are grown in France - almonds, walnuts and hazelnuts. Almonds are especially widely used as they are one of the mainstays of the French pâtissier's art. All over France, almond paste, meal or powder appears in yesterday's croissant; as marzipan, macarons or nougat; and in biscuits and cakes of all sorts. In restaurants, almond slivers come swimming in the beurre noisette with fish. 

 

Homegrown almond, with its leathery green sheath behind.

Almond.

Almonds are not much grown in the Touraine, which is walnut country, but almond trees are seen in many gardens to the south of us, in the Charente. The flavour can be sweet (milky fresh blanched almonds), moreishly nutty (unblanched dried almonds) or somewhat overpowering (almond extract). Excitingly, the flavour of almonds, like the kernels of other stone fruits, comes from highly aromatic chemicals which include cyanide. Almonds must be quite closely related to peaches, because on the tree, still clothed in their fleshy outer layer, the crop looks like rather poorly performing peaches.

 

Green (fresh) almonds from Spain in the supermarket at la Roche Posay (June). 

Green (fresh) almonds in a supermarket, France.

Once upon a time pastry chefs and confectioners pounded their own almonds to make paste for their goods. Almond paste had been a stock in trade of the patissier since Renaissance times. 

 

Organic locally grown almonds at the market in Preuilly (September).

Organic almonds at a market, France.

Terraroma, in Provence, is the largest almond producer in France, with 20 000 trees producing top quality nuts which are much prized by confectioners (Fr. confiseurs). The sweet almonds are grafted onto bitter almond stock, and some of the trees are 200 years old. But most almonds used in France are grown in Spain. France simply can't supply the demand.

 

Organic almond orchard in Provence (June).

Almond orchard, France.

Sunday, 20 July 2025

The Country Women's Association

The Country Women’s Association (CWA) has been a cornerstone of rural Australian life for over a century. Founded in 1922 at the Royal Easter Show in Sydney, the organisation was created by women who recognised the urgent need for connection, support, and services in isolated country communities.

The CWA hall in Batlow


At the time, rural women faced enormous challenges: poor medical access, limited education for their children, and almost no public infrastructure. Many endured harsh conditions on remote farms, often with no electricity, running water, or nearby neighbours. The CWA provided a vital lifeline, offering not just social support but also practical assistance, health information, and advocacy.

Members raised funds to build restrooms for women and children in country towns, set up baby health clinics, and campaigned for improved rural hospitals and roads. The organisation expanded rapidly, with branches forming across all Australian states and territories throughout the 1920s and ’30s.

The Morongla Mechanics Institute Building is also a CWA hall


While the CWA is often associated with scones and tea, its legacy runs much deeper. Its members have long been grassroots activists, lobbying governments on issues such as drought relief, mental health, domestic violence, and rural education.

My first encounter with the CWA was when my family was on holiday on the Gold Coast when I was 9 years old. The CWA ran a tea room, and my parents would often call in for a cup of tea and a biscuit.

Saturday, 19 July 2025

Don't Sit Here

We saw this sign on our way to Shelly Beach in Cabbage Tree Bay, Manly. I hope no-one was on the seat at the time.



Friday, 18 July 2025

"I will rest pleasantly here"

Louise Marie Madeleine Guillaume de Fontaine, known as Madame Dupin after her marriage, was born in Paris in 1706 and died at the Chateau de Chenonceau in 1799.

Famous for her beauty and her lively femininity, Louise Dupin was a celebrity during the Enlightenment, and ran a glittering literary salon. She is the step-great-grandmother of the author George Sand (real name Aurore Dupin).

 

Approaching the Chateau de Chenonceau.

Chateau de Chenonceau, France.

Louise Dupin was one of the pioneers of the feminist movement. She worked tenaciously for ten years on a history which brought forgotten women back into focus, aided by her secretary, Jean-Jacques Rousseau. She advocated equality, access to knowledge and marital freedom. She suggested that marriage should be a temporary or renewable contract. She attacked civil marriage as unfair, and was in favour of priests marrying.

Louise was the first of three illegitimate daughters of the banker Samuel Bernard and Marie Anne Armande Carton Dancourt, known as Manon, who was the daughter of well known actors.

 

A portrait of  Louise Dupin by Nattier hanging in one of the salons in the Chateau de Chenonceau. I think this would have been painted to commemorate her betrothal so she is about 16 years old in this portrait.

Portrait of louise Dupin by Nattier, France.

Both sides of her family were wealthy and Protestant in origin, and her father's family were the descendents of Dutch merchants. Her mother's family came from Picardy and were Huguenot gentlefolk. Both families, who were rising rapidly in the world, could see which way the wind was blowing, and renounced their Protestantism well before the Edict of Nantes was revoked. Both her natural father and her mother's husband were happy to acknowledge Louise as their own, and she had half siblings who were the children of her mother and her mother's husband.

She and her sisters were known as The Three Graces, but Louise seems to have been the star -- the most beautiful, the most intelligent, the best liked and the least prone to getting into awkward scrapes. She was educated in a convent and was clearly an eager student. But any thoughts of an academic life would have been suppressed. She was always destined to become a wife and mother.

 

The tomb of Louise Dupin.

Tomb of louise Dupin, France.

Her natural father decided to offer her in marriage to his protegé Claude Dupin, from Chateauroux. The link between the two men came about because Dupin had offered hospitality to an elderly relative of Bernard's when she became ill whilst travelling. Dupin even went to the extent of accompanying the old woman back to Paris once she was well enough to travel again, and Bernard was much impressed. Dupin was in his forties and widowed with a six year old son. Louise was sixteen.

Thanks to his father in law Dupin's career took off, and he became one of Louis XIV's super rich tax farmers, and he was granted a minor noble title. The couple had a son, and invest in a good deal of real estate, including the Hotel Lambert in Paris and the Chateau de Chenonceau, which they purchased from the Duke of Bourbon. The most important property they acquired was the Chateau de Naillac in Le Blanc, which with its land, the entire town, and fishponds, was worth four times the Chateau de Chenonceau.

 

The tomb of Louise Dupin.

Tomb of louise Dupin, France.

 

Louise was the perfect society hostess, charming and beguiling both aristocrats and intellectuals. She welcomed many of the great names of the Enlightenment, such as Voltaire (who describes her in glowing terms), Montesquieu (with whom the Dupins eventually fell out), Buffon, and Rousseau (who embarrassed himself by declaring mad passionate but entirely unrequited love for Louise). Only the jealous hostess of a rival salon has anything bad to say about her. These salons provided an essential network for the diffusion of ideas and the progression of science, philosophy and politics.

Every year the Dupins spent the autumn at Chenonceau. Louise, being from a family of actors, was passionate about the theatre, and so she set up a small theatre in the southern end of the first floor gallery over the river. She also sponsored less fortunate women and children (including the wife of Rousseau and his abandoned children) and advocated for the education of girls. In her opinion women should have access to employment in the public service and to jobs considered exclusively for men.

Sadly her own son caused her considerable worry. He was a gambler and lost a fortune, obliging his parents to pay his debt. Finally they sent him away to a tropical island colony, where he died of Yellow Fever. His illegitimate daughter was lovingly raised by her grandmother and was one of Louise's principle heirs.

 

The Chateau de Chenonceau.

Chateau de Chenonceau, France.

Claude Dupin died in 1769 and Louise received the Chateau of Chenonceau, the Chateau de Naillac le Blanc estate, and a town house in Paris as her share of the estate. Later, because of the political upheaval of the Revolution she moved permanently from Paris to Chenonceau. Like most of her friends she left Paris the day after the storming of the Bastille, but unlike many of her friends she chose to stay in France. Tucked away in the Touraine countryside she dedicated herself to raising the children, legitimate and illegitimate, of relatives who had been executed. She also ensured that the Chateau was not looted or seized as State property.

In the last year of her life she sponsored a promising young local medical student called Pierre Bretonneau. He went on to become a household name in France, and one of the hospitals in Tours is named after him.

She died at Chenonceau at the age of 93. Her instructions as to what was to happen on the occasion of her death are very clear. She was not to be buried immediately, probably out of fear of being buried alive. She had chosen a place in the woods in the grounds of the Chateau on the southern side of the river Cher, and specified that her coffin was to be of simple pine. She felt that she could 'rest pleasantly here'.

Thursday, 17 July 2025

A New Toy

.... but an old passion.

Anyone who knew me back in the day would tell you that music was my thing. I played my first professional concert when I was 16, and didn't stop with the music in some professional or semi-professional capacity until 30 years later.

And then I stopped.

Recently though, I have thought that I really should use the skills (and equipment) I accumulated in that time. So naturally, the first thing I did was buy a new guitar, just to motivate me. Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy a guitar, and that's the same thing.


It's an acoustic bass guitar, made in either Indonesia or China. I am amazed at the quality of cheap guitars compared with 50 years ago. The materials are excellent, all the frets are in the right places, and it's put together well. It did need the standard fettling (truss rod adjusted, the bridge and nut recut, and the frets dressed) but even expensive instruments can need that. I didn't feel confident doing that work myself, so we visited the luthier in Loches. (More on that later).

I don't have any calluses on my fingers, and my muscle memory is a bit dodgy, but I'm surprised at how quickly it's coming back to me.

I'll let you know how it's going.


Wednesday, 16 July 2025

Through the Ages

Here are pictures of us at the Tour de France, as seen by the TV cameras.

2008

2009

2021

2023

2025

All the other times the camera has missed us, but I think we're getting better at choosing our locations.