All the experts agree that vanilla pods that produce a white bloom or frosting are the top of the range. In French this is called 'vanille givrée'. The first time I noticed my vanilla pods from Réunion getting a white bloom I freaked out, thinking it was mould, but I was reassured when I found out it is quite the opposite, and a sign of the highest quality.
'Frosted' vanilla in my pantry.
Vanilla pods are the seed capsules of an orchid, cultivated in places like Madagascar and the French island of Réunion. It needs just the right balance of sun and shade, and is entirely dependent on man to grow and reproduce. The cultivation cannot be mechanised.
Vanilla orchids grow up rainforest trees, seeking the light. The red palms on Réunion have spikes on their trunks when they are young. It is these spikes that the vanilla farmer will harvest first, to use to hand pollinate the vanilla flowers. When the vanilla flowers resemble cobra heads the farmer will insert the spike and force the pollenia down to the stigma. In the south of Mexico, where vanilla is native, this is done by a native orchid bee. But the bees are not present on Réunion. So in 1841 the method of manually pollinating the orchids was developed by a 12 year old slave, Edmond Albius. And now, manual pollination of vanilla is the norm wherever it is grown.
'Frosted' vanilla in my pantry.
A month after pollination vanilla pods are fully grown, so the farmer knows quite quickly if his pollinating technique is good or not. The people who know how to do the pollinating are called 'marieurs' ('marryers'). The best are women and children, with small or fine fingers. The better the pollination, the longer the pod.
The pods are initially green, then they begin to get brown spots. Good pods are over 20 cm long.
Vanilla orchid plant.
 |
Photo courtesy of Helen Devries, from her garden in Costa Rica.
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The first harvest is the culmination of four years cultivation, while the plant climbs the tree and finally matures to flower and produce seed. Then there is another year of preparing the pods. In the workshop they are bundled together to cure. The frosting is not to be confused with mould, and the pods are carefully monitored, because they can go mouldy.
The frosting is different flavour crystals, and they do take slightly different forms. Some look like hairs and some like wax. Once sufficiently cured the bundles of pods will be divided up and put into glass tubes for commercialisation.
Vanilla orchid flower.
 |
Photo courtesy of Helen Devries, from her garden in Costa Rica.
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Only 0.5% of the flavour compound vanillin consumed globally comes from the natural pod. 99.5% of vanillin is synthetic. Most synthetic vanillin is extracted from lignin contained in the waste pulp from the paper making industry. But real vanilla has over 150 flavour compounds in addition to vanillin.