La Puxisardinophilie

Sardine tin collecting is a thing, especially in France, and in French it's called puxisardinophilie ('puxi' is the same root as pyx, a box used to carry the Eucharist wafers). A sardine tin collector can also be referred to as a clupéidophile (sardines are part of the Clupeidae family of ray-finned fish, which includes herring as well). Generally, puxisardinophile is used for collectors of unopened tins, whilst clupéidophile indicates someone who collects empty tins. It's affordable so anyone can do it. Most collectors buy unopened tins, and they may choose to focus on a particular area or factory's output, or they may collect globally. 

 

A collection on the wall of a bar in Carnac, Brittany.

The sardines from Brittany are considered to be the best in the world, and the Breton company Connétable is the oldest extant fish cannery in the world, founded in 1853. The very best Bretonne sardines are caught only in July, August and September, when their fat content is highest. Top quality sardines in tins must have a minimum of 10% fat to be given a vintage year (Fr. millésimée) and a use by date of ten years after processing, both printed on the tin. Also printed on the tins are the name and home port of the boat that caught the sardines inside. After canning these premium sardines will be aged by the factory for a year before being sold to consumers. Collectors will often age them another decade after the use by date and say that by then the bones have dissolved and the taste and texture has refined. If the tin is undamaged this is not dangerous. Plain olive oil rather than fancy marinades are favoured.

The reason the tins are collectable is because there is a long tradition, almost as long as sardines have been canned, of tins being printed with designs by professional contemporary artists. This means that the vintage sardines can be issued as limited editions -- doubly special and collectable! And there are also artists subverting the tradition, by using sardine tins as their medium.

 

Collectable tins of sardines at Galland Epicerie de terroirs in Amboise, a high end French regional products grocer.

Sardines are a delicate fish, not easy to keep in good condition after they are caught. Prior to canning being possible they were dried on outdoor racks, or pressed between layers of salt in barrels. From the 1820s large scale canning was underway and there were many factories processing sardines.

Sardines were the first staple food to be marketed in the modern sense. Once the means existed to preserve them and ship them inland, especially to Paris, these new markets needed to be encouraged to purchase such an unfamiliar product. So, along with advertising and promotional campaigns for fancier products such as chocolate and tonic drinks of high alcohol content and dubious health benefits, the humble sardine was introduced to its new public with painted wall advertisements, posters and newspaper space. The cleverest way of boosting sales was the use of eye-catching colourful and collectable tins. This is now so well established that it is just about the only way sardines are promoted these days, apart from occasional specials in supermarket catalogues.

 

The range of tinned sardines in one of my local supermarkets. Even the supermarket own brand has vintage sardines.

These days sardines are rather polarising as a foodstuff. You either love them or you hate them. Many people find them too stinky and unappetising, and can't face them, despite knowing all about their Omega-3 fatty acid health benefits and their sustainability (at least, the Atlantic stocks...). Canned tuna is as far as these people are prepared to go. Fortunately Simon and I love sardines, so we always keep a tin or two in the pantry. 

Tins of Bretonne sardines make great gifts when you travel, as they are lightweight, sealed and robust. Likewise they are a good product to pick off the shelf and donate when your local food bank is collecting at the supermarket.

 

The tin of sardines currently in our pantry.

Tinned sardines (Fr. sardines en boîte) are best served simply, just with some good bread to sop up the oil, and a few drops of lemon juice. 

The Bretonne sardines are Sardina pilchardus. The sardine fishing and processing industry employs several thousand people in Brittany. The port of Douarnenez was for many years the biggest sardine fishing port in the world, and a pioneer in industrial fish canning. Nevertheless the industry has had its ups and downs in the region, with changes to manufacturing processes and fluctuating stocks of fish.