Thursday, 31 October 2024

Awaydays Blog Post 2

It's now 02.44 and I'm sitting in Manly, Sydney, as the rain pours down. My body says that my afternoon nap is over, but questions why it's dark.

We left Paris at 10:40 am on Tuesday on a direct flight to Perth Australia. That's just over 16 hours in a slightly too small (!) seat with slightly more legroom than others offer. After take-off they get lunch/dinner into you as fast as possible then start to dim the lights. By 13:00 local time it's nighttime and they're bedding you down for 12 hours of near sleep, uninterrupted except by four hourly interruptions to offer ice-cream or cheese and crackers. Or cheese toasties. Or pizza. The toilets are too small (even by aircraft toilet standards) and too few, but the kitchen is available at all hours for self service snackage and knee and back stretching. 


Then they wake you, serve breakfast, and throw you and all your hand luggage into an airport with underperforming air-conditioning in 35° Celsius heat to have your stuff security scanned and be returned to the same seat you just left for another 4 hour flight. Last time we flew we commented on the situation at Shanghai but this made no more sense. Ah well...

We were met at the airport by my brother, known as JB the Mighty Provider, Bringer of Golden Things, who drove us to Manly, opened the door to his apartment there, made sure we knew the ropes, slept on the couch, and departed on Thursday morning, but not before accompanying us on a short walk to a couple of the lesser known nearby beaches. Where we saw dolphins and little fish. What an excellent start!


We then spent the whole afternoon wrestling with getting our Australian bank accounts in order after 7 years of neglect.

Anyway... My body tells me I'm tired, the rain has eased (see photographic evidence) and I'm back to bed.



Awaydays Blog Post 1

For the next couple of weeks blog posts will be haphazard - you'll just have to check.



Monday, 28 October 2024

A Visit From Family

My Cousin Linda has been mentioned on the blog before - last year, when she joined us in Cauterets, in 2018 and 2017 when we went on the Anti-Brexit march, and 2016 when she spend a night in Preuilly on her way south.

She was in Preuilly last weekend with Philip, her husband, and we've all had a jolly nice time of it. On Sunday we sort of did the Jean Dufy trail in Preuilly, and then we had dinner at ours where Susan cooked amazing local leg of lamb (with all the trimmings). Chat and pontifications carried quite late into the night.


Yesterday morning we went for a drive around the local area, before visiting Loches after lunch. The afternoon turned really sunny, so we managed to show Linda and Philip Loches at its best.


We dined at l'Image last night, and very good it was too. Linda and Philip leave for the UK again this morning, and this afternoon we're off on an adventure.

It's been great seeing Linda and Philip. They're both huge fun, and will be welcome again at any time.


Saturday, 26 October 2024

A Bit Sobering

We wrote about the World War 2 demarcation line last year when there was an exhibition in the salle de fĂȘte, and a couple of times before that, too.

We were at the mairie on Thursday morning, and we were rather surprised to see the original, authentic, demarcation line notice popped against the council chamber wall.


It always sends a sobering chill down my back to remember that this is within living memory.

Friday, 25 October 2024

A Domestic Day

Even when you lead such exotic lives as Susan and I, you still need to take a day to do the boring domestic stuff. Yesterday was such a day. 

It involved tasks such as paying an electricity bill (late) because the bank hadn't, emptying the compost bins, visiting the pharmacy for our flu and COVID jabs, chatting in the market place on market day, doing my 3km recuperative walk, filling in government forms online, and a myriad of other sometimes distasteful things.

Susan stirring the heap after emptying our compost bins into the communal bins.

The abbey was looking a bit splendiferous 

This is traffic jam corner in the 2 minutes a day it isn't gridlocked.

Just as well the weather was nice.

Thursday, 24 October 2024

A Lovely Day

It was a lovely day yesterday - the sort of autumn day where the sun shines but the shadows are long, and you can see - with some disbelief - that winter is approaching.

We were out early-ish for us. More medical stuff, as is usual these days. Driving across to le Grand Pressigny was really pretty, and the effect hadn't worn off on our way back so we stopped to take a couple of photos.




Wednesday, 23 October 2024

The Dufy Trails

We have written about the painter Jean Dufy a couple of times on the blog. In April 2007 I wrote that I wasn't a huge fan of his work, but having been here a while and getting to know the village and its surrounds, I have to say I understand it a lot better. Places are instantly recognisable, and the impression is somewhat of a time capsule.

Earlier this year a Dufy trail was opened in Boussay, around where he lived and where he is buried. You start at la Halle (the Boussay guinguette) and boards with paintings on them are situated along the trail, showing his art in the approximate position from which they were painted. Events mean that we haven't yet walked it, but we have plans. The official website is here, and you can download the leaflet.


Likewise, last weekend a Dufy trail was inaugurated in Preuilly. We haven't walked that one either (same reasons), but with any luck we'll be doing it this coming weekend. A guide can be picked up at the mairie, and the trail starts at the old train station.

Tuesday, 22 October 2024

Another Mystery

I noticed this in FerriÚre Larçon Yesterday. Nope, I have no idea what it has to do with Chaumussay, but who amongst us doesn't enjoy a little whimsy?


Souvenirs du chemin de fer Kalda, Kafka 1914
 «J'avais Ă©tĂ© embauchĂ© dans un petite gare... je n'ais jamais Ă©tĂ© dans un lieu aussi perdu.»
Une gare-cabane de la Russie intérieure, quasi inutile puisque le train n'atteint pas Kalda

Memories of the Kalda railway, Kafka 1914
 "I had been hired at a small railway station... I had never been in such a lost place."
A shack station in inland Russia, almost useless since the train does not reach Kalda


There was no blog post yesterday. I was 100% preoccupied with a project, and blogging fell by the wayside.

Saturday, 19 October 2024

Further Afield

Our usual Saturday blog post is about somewhere other than the Touraine. This week is somewhat different.

I rode the Vicar yesterday, my first bike ride for over 12 months. It wasn't far, but it's the furthest afield that I have travelled under my own steam since before my operation.


Friday, 18 October 2024

The Boule d'Or

We normally don't do last minute tours, but on Wednesday night we received a request for a walking tour of Chenonceau for yesterday afternoon. As we we going to be driving past the place on our way back from a medical appointment in Blois it seemed logical to say yes.

That left us with a question about lunch. We like exploring new restaurants, but it's tricky to do with clients and we're very rarely in that area otherwise. So it was a perfect chance to try a restaurant we've been recommended, driven past any number of times, but never tried.

The dining room is a shelter in the car park

La Boule d'Or is a traditional ouvriers restaurant in Chissay, not that far from Chenonceau. A three course lunch is 16€50. There's no choice of entree (salad and home made rillettes) or dessert (Charlotte made with sponge fingers and chestnut puree), and today the choice of main course was between roast pork, lasagne, and beef bourguignon (made with rosĂ© so it's not too heavy). The main was served with chips (fries).

Chestnut Charlotte

The atmosphere is really friendly - from the cat who was occupying a chair when we arrived, to the family who run the whole operation, via the clientele (who appeared to be as much friends as clients). It's also spotlessly clean.


We would recommend it to anyone looking for an authentic french lunch experience. Unfortunately though, we won't be using it for work. We suspect it may be just a little too authentic for our clients.

Thursday, 17 October 2024

Bonus!!

In April we wrote about the rain and the River Claise flooding. As these things go it wasn't a major flood for us, but for some in the area it caused major disruption and damage. Especially for farmers, who were unable to either tend their over-wintering wheat and barley, or were unable to plant the new crops. In recognition of this, a refund of taxe fonciĂšre was issued for those owning agricultural land. As our potager is classed agricultural, we benefitted.


Four euros isn't a lot of money, but it's an almost 30% refund. We will attempt not to spend it all at once.

Wednesday, 16 October 2024

Walking From le Grand Pressigny

On Monday 14 October both Simon and I joined the Phoenix en Claise walking group for a 5.75 kilometre walk from le Grand Pressigny. It was remarkably warm, in the low 20s celsius, and took an hour and a half. Simon did 3 kilometres and then peeled off to return to the car. He's not quite fit enough at the moment for the full walk and was worried he would conk out.

 

A friend greets us from her window.

Village house, Indre et loire, france. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.


A village house being restored.

Village house, Indre et loire, france. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.


The Chateau du Grand Pressigny.

Chateau du Grand Pressigny, Indre et loire, france. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.


The ruined keep of the Chateau du Grand Pressigny.

Chateau du Grand Pressigny, Indre et loire, france. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.


The Nymphaeum, a spring fed pool that served as a relaxation station for 17th century aristocratic women.

Nymphaeum, Grand Pressigny, Indre et loire, france. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.


An Ivy Bee Colletes hederae (Fr. CollĂšte du lierre) doing what it does best -- feeding on ivy flowers.

Ivy Bee Colletes hederae, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.


Yellow Stainers Agaricus xanthodermus (Fr. Agaric jaunissant), growing in typical fashion, through a hedgerow.

Yellow Stainer Agaricus xanthodermus, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.


Lizard Orchid Himantoglossum hircinum (Fr. Orchis bouc) leaf rosettes.

Lizard Orchid HimantogLossum hircinum, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.


Big Sheath Mushroom Volvopluteus gloiocephalus (Fr. Volvaire gluante).

Volvopluteus gloiocephalus, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.


View looking down the Claise Valley.

Claise Valley, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.

Tuesday, 15 October 2024

The Miseries and Misfortunes of War

In the Chateau of Azay le Rideau there is a 17th century piece of furniture in ebonised wood, with engraved ivory panel drawer fronts. When you look closely at the astonishingly minutely detailed ivory panels you realise that each of them depicts an horrific scene of torture, death and cruelty. At the centre top of the piece is the inscription 'Les MisĂšres et les Malheurs de la Guerre'.

 

Plate 3: The Battle. Considered to be the least successful of these etchings. 

The middle of the print depicts a cavalry charge. The foreground is littered with dead men and horses.  The infantry can be seen engaging in the distance to the right.

Plate 3 Battle, Miseries and Misfortunes of War, detail of cabinet in the Chateau of Azay le Rideau.

 

The drawer fronts are versions of a famous series of etchings by Jacques Callot, created in 1633. They are reknowned as a piece of anti-war protest, and tell the story of ordinary soldiers from recruitment through fighting in battles and then becoming out of control as they ravage civilians. Finally they are arrested and executed. Each etching has an explanatory text underneath and the series can be considered the ancestor of French graphic stories (bandes dessinĂ©es). 

 

Plate 5: Pillaging a farmhouse. 

Inside a vast and well provisioned house the soldiers indulge in every kind of excess.

Plate 5 Pillaging a Farmhouse, Miseries and Misfortunes of War, detail of cabinet in the Chateau of Azay le Rideau.

The etchings are Callot's reaction to the Thirty Years War, when Cardinal Richelieu sent troops in to Lorraine, at that time an independent duchy. Callot lived in the provincial capital Nancy and witnessed the destruction and devastation to civilians caused by the soldiers as they participated in the annexation of the territory for France. He produced the etchings half way through the conflict, having lived through 15 years of war in his home province. The original plates for these etchings are housed in the museum in Nancy. There are 18 illustrations in the original series, although only six are represented on the piece of furniture at Azay le Rideau.

Callot was a master of the technique of multiple 'bitings' of acid, with sections 'stopped out' so that there is gradation in the strength of line, and scenes in the distance are lighter than those in the foreground.

This series was influenced by earlier French, Italian and Flemish works, and in turn influenced later engravers such as Hogarth and Goya.

 

Plate 14: Breaking on the Wheel. 

The instrument of torture is standing in the middle of a square crowded with soldiers and civilians. A condemned man is already tied to the wheel and attended by a priest. The executioner is about to strike. Another condemned man, escorted by a monk, is visible on the left of the print.

Plate 14 , Miseries and Misfortunes of War, detail of cabinet in the Chateau of Azay le Rideau.

Callot's paternal grandfather married a grand-niece of Joan of Arc, and was enobled for loyal service to the Duke of  Lorraine. His family did not encourage the young Jacques passion for drawing, and at the age of 12 he ran away to Rome to train in an Italian workshop. Unfortunately, once there he was recognised by merchants from Nancy who were friends of his family, and they packed him off back home. His father insisted he go back to school and concentrate on academic subjects, but by the age of 14 he had absconded once again. This time he was found in Turin by his older brother and brought home. Finally his father aquiesced and Jacques was apprenticed to a goldsmith and engraver who ran the mint for the Duke of Lorraine. Jacques had already been hanging around in his workshop, but ultimately he did not complete his four year apprenticeship. 

 

Plate 17: The Peasants Fight Back. 

Soldiers returning from pillaging have been spotted at the edge of a forest by peasants who slaughter them, rob them, and take revenge on them for the evils they have suffered.

Plate 17 Revenge of the peasants, Miseries and Misfortunes of War, detail of cabinet in the Chateau of Azay le Rideau.

At the age of 16 he was sent, with his father's blessing, to study engraving in Italy, albeit with a French workshop master in Rome. There he rejoined his lifelong friend and collaborative partner, Israël Henriet. Then he went to work for the Medicis in Florence, before returning to Lorraine and marrying. After a brief sojourn in the Low Countries working on a commission from the Infanta, who governed this territory on behalf of her father, Phillip II of Spain, he went to Paris, but the King, Louis XIII, could not tempt him to stay. He died of stomach cancer aged just 42, leaving an impressive body of work which includes about 1500 etchings, and having made several significant technical innovations to the art form (such as using hard luthiers varnish on the copper plates rather than wax, which meant that the working surface was less prone to damage).

 

Glossary of terms:

Etching -- a printmaking technique where a metal plate is coated in wax, then a needle used to draw a design. Acid is used to eat away the metal which has been exposed, thus creating a printing plate. The acid is said to 'bite' the metal. Etching tools are pulled by the hand working them, so is more like drawing. Etching is quicker than engraving and Callot's preferred technique.

Engraving -- a technique whereby a hard surface such as metal or glass has a design cut into it with a burin. Engraving can be used as a decorative technique in its own right or to create printing plates. Engraving tools are pushed by the hand working them, so is more like carving. Engraving is slower than etching.

Monday, 14 October 2024

What have Susan and Simon Been Doing?

It's been a busy couple of weeks. Susan has done a lot of tours: mainly walking tours with small groups, although there have been a couple of tours using Claudette with Olivier as driver. I have been trying to regain some fitness, not easy when you've been out of commission as long as I have.

Then there have been a seemingly endless series of medical appointments, as well as a very welcome visit from friends.

There haven't been a lot of adventures, although just at the moment just getting from day to day feels like a little adventure to me. I'm on a new course of anti cancer treatment, which hasn't had drastic side effects, but just enough to make me perpetually weary.

On our very short walk on Friday we discovered a slightly different view of Preuilly. As you can see, the river is back to just about its normal level.



Friday, 11 October 2024

Who Were the 68th?

Susan and I have noted this graffiti before, but never blogged it. It's on a building dated 1767, so it obviously post dates that.

To me it looks like a soldier in a bearskin hat holding a lance. For some reason, to me it's reminiscent of Napoleonic uniform.

I think it also says "50 homs".

I have posted the photos full size so you can make your own mind up.



And here's the graffiti with enhancement.



Thursday, 10 October 2024

Look Out For Travellers Joy in the Touraine Loire Valley

 Travellers Joy Clematis vitalba (Fr. ClĂ©matite des haies).

Travellers Joy Clematis vitalba, Indre et loire, France.

Travellers Joy is a woody scrambling plant in the Ranunculus family (whoda thunk it?).
 
The leaves can burn or irritate the skin if they are rubbed and apparently beggars used to them to create ulcers on their skin to further encourage pity from passersby.
 
The scientific name means 'white vine' and it is native to the whole of the Northern Hemisphere. The vines can be used in basket and rope making.
 
Over winter they are covered in fluffy seedheads which give the plant a very characteristic look. 
 
Flowering is June to August.
 
They grow more or less anywhere but prefer warm spots and calcareous soil. 
 
Several species of lepidoptera use the plant as a host for eggs eg Hummingbird Hawk Moth, or caterpillars eg Brown Hairstreak.

Wednesday, 9 October 2024

Alert

We have a weather alert for ex-hurricane Kirk. It seems like we've known about it forever, with warnings and communications from our insurance company, the Town Hall, the weather service (Meteo De France) and various news programs on TV.

What's interesting is that it'll be breezy but not excessively so (according to the instructions). In the Netherlands I'm pretty sure they wouldn't comment.

In the meantime, some photos form the short walk I managed to squeeze in between the rain showers yesterday.




Tuesday, 8 October 2024

Look Out for Holly in the Touraine Loire Valley

Holly Ilex aquifolium (Fr. Houx).

Holly is a small evergreen tree. There are lots of species of Ilex, but I. aquifolium is the only one native to Europe. It is in fact native to all of the temperate Old World.
 
Holly Ilex aquifolium, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.

It is abundant, and grows up to 1500 metres above sea level. Because of its persistent glossy green leaves and red berries it is much sought after in France as a Christmas decoration. Like box, laurel, yew, ivy, broom, gorse and mistletoe it has been associated with the winter solstice since ancient times and now New Year too, as a symbol of the persistence of life even in the depths of winter. Its association with Christmas is an adoption of an existing pagan mid-winter practice. Conveniently the spines and berries adapt well to an association with the crown of thorns and Christ's blood in addition.
 
The English 'holly' and the French 'houx' come from the same old German root word 'hulis', meaning 'spiny plant'. The specific name 'aquifolium' means 'spiny leaved', and the genus name 'ilex' means 'evergreen oak'.
 
Holly Ilex aquifolium, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.
 
There are many place names in France that reference holly eg la Houssaye ('the holly wood') or Arpheuilles ('sharp leaves').
 
Holly is slow growing, with dense wood. A mature holly is generally about 5 metres tall, and can live for several hundred years.
 
Holly Ilex aquifolium, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.

The leaves are tough, and variable in their number of spines. Leaves last about 3 years and the ones which grow in winter tend to be spinier. The spines are to protect the tree from browsers such as deer.
 
Holly trees are generally either male or female, with only the females producing berries. Pollinisation is by insects, and seeds distributed by birds, usually thrushes (including blackbirds) and wood pigeons as they eat the berries. For these species it is a very important winter food. Likewise the tree provides important cover for deer and wild boar (and in Christian legend, for the Holy Family fleeing Herod).
Adult Brimstone butterflies use Holly as a protected hideaway to overwinter.
 
Holly Ilex aquifolium, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.

Holly is a plant of the forest understorey, and thrives in damp shaded rich slightly acid soils. It will also adapt well to calcareous soil, so long as the humidity is high enough. It survives because of an enhanced ability to photosynthesise in the shade and in the winter, but it can't take too much cold.
 
Holly is present throughout France, and there are several significant holly forests in the south of the country. 
 
Holly Ilex aquifolium, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.

The berries and leaves contain various toxins, but you would have to consume a lot to be poisoned, and the berries are bitter, so not very enticing after the first taste. Most likely you would vomit it up before it killed you, and cases of poisoning are very rare.
 
In Alsace and the Black Forest there are traditional drinks made from holly, such as an eau de vie from the berries and a tea from the leaves (like the South American maté, which is also made from a species of holly).
 
Holly Ilex aquifolium, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.

Not much attacks holly, but it does have its own leaf mining fly larvae, and its own aphid, both specific to holly.
 
Notoriously, holly bark is the source of glu, a viscous substance used to trap birds. The bark is left to ferment in spring water and after some manipulation a greenish water resistant paste is produced. This is mixed with poultry fat, vinegar, oil, and turpentine, boiled whilst stirring and when ready spread on vines and fruit trees to protect against insects and birds.
 
Gathering holly for Christmas decorations, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.

Holly wood is very pale, dense and evenly grained, so it is prized by marquetry workers. It is traditionally used to make the white pieces for a chess set, and in various musical instruments.
 
It has been used in hedges to enclose stock.

Monday, 7 October 2024

La Vie en Rose

 The town hall in le Grand Pressigny, decorated for Breast Cancer Awareness Month.

Town hall decorated for Breast Cancer Awareness month, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.

October is Breast Cancer Awareness month in France, as it is in many countries. In France it is known as Octobre Rose. Here in the Touraine virtually every village shop and town hall has put up posters and decorated their windows in pink. Fundraising events for the Ligue Contre le Cancer are organised all over. 

 

Tineke and other volunteers leading the pre-walk warm up.

Warm up prior to a Breast Cancer Awareness charity walk, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.

We participated in the walk organised in le Grand Pressigny. You could choose to walk 1, 3, 6 or 13 kilometres. The start was staggered, and everyone came together again at the four banal (medieval community bread oven) which had been fired up to provide complimentary fouaces (pocket breads) to the walkers. Delicious stuffed with rillettes (pork paste)!

 

Walkers picking up their fouaces.

Refreshment stop on a charity walk, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.

Simon and I did the 3 kilometre walk (just in case he conked out on the 6 kilometre walk, which was what most of our friends did). We couldn't stay for the lunch afterwards because we had to get to the pharmacy back in Preuilly to pick up Simon's new medication.

 

Walkers milling about at the finish while they wait for lunch.

Charity walkers at a village Breast Cancer Awareness event, Indre et loire, France. Photo by loire Valley Time Travel.

It was a well organised event, well supported by all ages in the community, the weather was good, and I hope they made lots of money from donations and the sale of merch for the Ligue Contre le Cancer.