Wednesday, 4 February 2026

Dovecotes in the Touraine

Dovecotes in French are colombiers, or more often, pigeonniers. They are buildings in which to house and raise domestic pigeons.

 

Chateau du Petit-Thouars, near Chinon.

Dovecote, France.

 

The word colombier comes from the Latin, but since the 18th century the term pigeonnier has more commonly been used and colombier has become obsolete. The term colombier is restricted to free standing towers, or housing for homing pigeons. They generally date from the Renaissance up to the 20th century. Modern changes in agriculture, especially the increasing cultivation of crops such as sugarbeet, have led to the raising of pigeons becoming obsolete (ie farms were not necessarily raising enough cereal to feed pigeons).

 

Chateau du Petit-Thouars, near Chinon.

Dovecote, france.

 

There is a third word in French to designate a dovecote -- sometimes, especially in the Touraine, they are called a fuie. The term dates from the early 12th century and implies a refuge. They are small scale and able to be closed with a shutter, mainly used more domestically for personal consumption of a modest individual household. These dovecotes are modifications to existing buildings rather than freestanding purpose built constructions.

 

Chateau du Petit-Thouars, near Chinon.

Dovecote, France.

Dovecotes come in quite a range of sizes and architectural styles. Amongst a dozen other areas scattered across France the Touraine is rather well known for its extant dovecotes. The most common style in the Touraine is the cylindrical tower, dating from the 14th to the 16th century. These were generally topped with tiles, but may have a cupola and a lantern. They have a single dormer entrance, and exterior ledges for the pigeons to land and take off from.

 

Chateau du Petit-Thouars, near Chinon.

Dovecote, France.

The interior of a pigeonnier has niches known in French as boulins. Each niche houses a pair of birds. The boulins can be made of stone, brick or daub, and made as part of the construction, or they can be ceramic or wicker and added later. There are several dovecotes in France with 2000 or more niches. The number of niches is a sign of wealth and indicates how much land the owner is cultivating. It was not unknown for socially climbing dovecote owners to add fake niches, to try to hoodwink the families they wished to marry into.

 

Chateau du Petit-Thouars, near Chinon.

Dovecote, France.

Inside the dovecote is a honeycomb of niches. Up to about 80 cm from the ground is empty, to prevent predators from climbing up. In the centre is a mechanism to which one or two ladders are attached, and it can be swung all the way around to give access to the nests at any height, so they can be cleaned, and the 4-5 week old squabs taken for the table. Troughs for water and food were placed on the floor. The entry window opening could be closed by a wooden grill operated from the ground by a pulley.

 

Chaumussay.

Dovecote, France.

It seems to have been the Romans who introduced the practice of raising pigeons in France. In the Middle Ages dovecotes supplied a luxury food, but also an important source of fertiliser, that could help enrich the local Lord. Pigeon guano was used up until the mid-20th century as fertiliser. At the end of the 19th century it was estimated that 2 million pigeons were consumed in the City of Paris per year.

 

Private garden, Chinon.

Dovecote, France.

Property owners had to apply for the right to erect a dovecote, and its size had to reflect the importance of the property. They were often placed over a chook shed, a kennel, a bread oven or a pantry. Generally the smaller ones were integrated into a stable, barn, or shed. Owners had to prove a minimum of 25 hectares of land was being cultivated if they wanted up to 120 niches.  

 

Boussay.

Dovecote, France.

Whilst the pigeons produced an excellent fertiliser, they were still viewed as a menace at seed sowing time. During that season the birds were shut up in their dovecotes.

 

Fortified farm, Vesvre (Neuilly Deux Clochers).

Dovecote, France.

After the Revolution raising pigeons by commoners became a symbol of what had been won, and niches were added to many houses.

 

 Les Louroux.

Dovecote, France.

Dovecotes need to be positioned away from large trees to prevent raptors from staking them out. Likewise they need features to discourage predation by rodents and mustelids (martens and weasels), for example smooth tiled or plastered surrounds to the entrances, or being elevated off the ground on a central pole.

 

Chateau de Valencay, Antan.

Dovecote, France.

Nowadays, small dovecotes are erected by municipalities who want to encourage pigeons to nest somewhere convenient and not on street lights and window ledges. The municipal dovecotes are usually managed so eggs are systematically sterilised, in order to reduce and control the urban pigeon population.

Tuesday, 3 February 2026

Look Out for Snowdrops in the Touraine Loire Valley

Galanthus nivalis, commonly known as the Snowdrop (Fr. perce-neige, which translates as 'snow piercer') is one of those plants that people look forward to seeing, and it has many folkloric associations. The scientific name translates as 'milk flower of the snow'. The English name probably comes from a German word 'schneetropfen', which is the name of the teardrop shaped pearl earrings popular at the time snowdrops were introduced to Britain, in the 16th century.

Snowdrops galanthus nivalis, France.

It is native to central and southern Europe, from the Black Sea to western France. The natural northern distribution limit is debatable, because there has been so much cultivation and naturalisation, but it's probably southern Belgium.

In France it is classed as rather rare in the West, Centre (Loire Valley) and Pyrénées. Elsewhere it is rare, or naturalised, especially in the East. The flowers appear in early spring, no matter what the temperature. Thanks to the natural 'anti-freeze' in the plants they can withstand frost and snow, and push through regardless. Snowdrops can flower as early as December and as late as May, but generally flowering will be around Candlemas (Fr. Chandeleur) in early February up until the vernal equinox in March. Snowdrops are threatened in their natural habitats due to habitat destruction, illegal collecting and climate change.

Snowdrops galanthus nivalis, France.

When it's sunny the flowers open and the interior reflects ultraviolet light, alerting the few early emerging pollinators. Along with hazel and willow catkins, they are the most important source of pollen (food) for early flying solitary bees. You can find them on the edges of cool damp woods or sometimes open grasslands with nitrogen rich soil. I often find them in ditches.

The species is widely cultivated, and there are many varieties as well as other species. The bulbs have been known since antiquity as both toxins and antidotes.

Snowdrops galanthus nivalis, France.

Symbolically the plant is associated with heralding spring and hope, as well as purification and the Christian festival of Candlemas. Conversely it is also associated with sorrow, and considered a harbinger of death, possibly because it was widely planted in cemeteries. Some people are superstitious about bringing the flowers inside for this reason.

Snowdrops galanthus nivalis, France.

Snowdropping, by the way, is Australian slang for stealing women's underwear off clotheslines.

Monday, 2 February 2026

Creme Caramel

Homemade creme caramel.

Crème caramel is a truly classic French dessert, served in restaurants from the humblest workers canteen to the fanciest high end classical French cuisine establishment. They are also made at home by those who enjoy cooking for their family or entertaining. A crème caramel is welcome on any dining table, and it is in many ways an archetypal French dessert -- small and dairy based, a few creamy sweet mouthfuls to properly round off your meal. The few ingredients necessary will be in everyone's pantry and kitchen -- sugar, milk, eggs and vanilla. It's not difficult to make perfectly edible crème caramel. It does take practice not to over cook them and make perfect crème caramel.

Homemade creme caramel.

Here are a couple of recipes that I've used and I know work. They give you a classic crème caramel. If you are nervous about turning them out, don't bother. The caramel will still be there in the bottom of your dish.

https://www.deliaonline.com/recipes/international/european/french/creme-caramel

https://www.pardonyourfrench.com/creme-caramel-recipe/

 

Homemade creme caramel.

 

Friday, 30 January 2026

The Foundry in Abilly

We were saddened to learn that the foundry in the middle of Abilly will close permanently in a weeks time, with the loss of around 30 jobs. In a small community that is significant. Also significant is the loss of technical knowledge and skill. 

 

The village of Abilly.

Abilly, France.

Joseph Pinet established the foundry in the town in 1820 to manufacture agricultural machinery parts. In 2020 it was still going strong and employed 27 people, making parts for tractors and trailers for 150 clients. The workers skills in metallurgy are no longer supported by the State Education system, so on the job training is really important now. The management was very conscious of the impact a foundry has on a small village, both in a positive sense as an important employer, but also the potential negatives such as pollution. The factory by this time was recycling all its waste and reusing the sand used to make moulds. They had also installed chimney filters and caps to capture particles, and replaced the old furnaces with induction furnaces using clean energy.

Many foundries closed in the 1980s, victims of Chinese competition. The foundry at Abilly survived by diversifying into home decor, making candelabras for the North African market. They also successfully promoted their park benches and rubbish bins to municipalities. They made parts for locks and hydraulic pumps, but rarely the complete product in these sectors.

Thursday, 29 January 2026

Retromobile 2026

Retromobile opens today in Paris. The headline news for us is that once more we're not going to be there. We were last there in 2018, then we had a planned break. The plague got in the way in 2020 and 2021, and we fell fell out of the habit. The past two years we've had plans to visit until and then my prostate intervened. It's about time we went again.

In the meantime, some random cars from past years.





Other Retromobile pix can be found here:


Wednesday, 28 January 2026

The 20th First Cowslip

This is our annual "First Cowslip of the Year" photo. Usually they are posted in Match, but occasionally we see one in early February. This is the first time we have seen a cowslip the wild in January.

This particularly unimpressive specimen is in the middle of Huub and Ingrid's driveway. It's no wonder it isn't sticking its head out 



Tuesday, 27 January 2026

A Walk in the Forest

 On 14 January I went for a walk in the Forest of Preuilly with Ingrid and Huub. It was 3.5 km, 14°C and took an hour and a half. Huub was vastly amused to be accompanying two women who spent half their time with their arses in the air, photographing small fungi at ground level. Here is a small selection of what we saw. There were a lot of bracket fungi.

 

 A waymarker (Fr. borne) for the Chemin de Saint Martin (the Way of Saint Martin, an important pilgrim route).

Chemin de Saint Martin waymarker, Foret de Preuilly, France.


Ochre Bracket Trametes ochracea (Fr. Tramète zoné) is not uncommon, but not abundant either. It is usually found on Aspen.

Ochre Bracket Trametes ochracea, France.


Sporodophoron cretaceum, a lichen that grows on the bark of mature oak trees.

Sporodophoran cretaceum, France.


Common Green Shield lichen Flavoparmelia caperata (Fr. Parmélie froncée) is widespread and abundant. The leaf like lobes don't adhere to the substrate they are growing on, and can be lifted up like flaps. The underside is black.

Common Greenshield lichen Flavoparmelia caperata, France.


Cherry Gall (Fr. Galle-cerise) made by the wasp Cynips quercusfolii on the underside of an oak leaf.

Cherry Gall made by Cynips quercusfolii, France.


Golden Ear fungus Naematelia aurantia (Fr. Trémelle orangée) is an irregular jelly like blob of yellow that parasitises Hairy Curtain Crust fungus.

Golden Ear fungus Naematelia aurantia, France.


Possibly Fence-rail Cladonia lichen Cladonia parasitica, which seems to be rather rare overall in Indre et  Loire and virtually impossible to tell from C. caespiticia without doing a chemical reaction test.

Fence Rail Cladonia Cladonia parasitica, France.


Luminescent Panellus Panellus stipticus (Fr. Panelle astringente), an abundant beige mushroom growing in layered groups on dead wood of deciduous trees.

luminescent Panellus Panellus stipticus, France.


Gilled Polypore Trametes betulina (Fr. Lenzite du bouleau) is a slightly downy dirty white bracket fungus. They can appear more coloured, but that is algae growing on the surface. They are mostly found on birch, oak, beech, alder and hazel.

Gilled Polypore Trametes betulina, France.


Rusty Swan-neck moss Campylopus flexuosus (Fr. ) is an attractive moss that is relatively common all over France and observable all year round. Underneath the bright green cushion is usually rusty red, and the leaves have a very distinctive wide central vein.

Rusty Swan-neck Moss Campylopus flexuosus, France.


Stinking Hellebore Helleborus foetidus (Fr. Pied-de-griffon), a toxic wild flower of oak woodland understorey. Touching it releases an unpleasant smell. The flowers produce a lot of nectar, no doubt very welcome for early emerging bumble bees, who love hellebores.

Stinking Hellebore Helleborus foetidus, France.

Monday, 26 January 2026

Aussie Style Pickled Beetroot

Today is Australia Day, a controversial national holiday, unknown outside of Australia, and even Australians can't decide what it is they are celebrating on this day or whether it should even be on this date. So I thought I'd write about something less controversial. Beetroot. Which in my opinion is Australia's national dish. Or at least, the very sweet pickled sliced version. It is an essential ingredient of any Aussie hamburger or mixed salad, both of which are served by humble cafés, restaurants and pubs up and down the land. Here is how I do it in France, so this recipe might not be authentic, but a hybrid introduced by me to many of my French friends, who, by the way, love it.

 

Cooked organic beetroot in the farm shop at les Jardins Vergers de la Petite Renaudière, our local market garden and orchard.

Cooked beetroot, France

 

Ingredients

2-6 cooked beetroots (I buy mine pre-cooked from my local organic market garden. They are boiled or pressure cooked whole and in their skins in big batches on the farm. If you need to cook your own, boil them in water for about 30 minutes, until you can slip a knife all the way through them easily.)

Pickling liquor:

200 g white sugar (note that French white sugar is more like castor sugar, but any cheap sugar will do)

450 ml vinegar (I use red wine vinegar in France, but distilled white or malt vinegar would be traditional)

125 ml water (optional, for if you need to extend the quantity a bit, or you want to cut the acidity a bit)

1 tbsp sea salt

½ tsp mustard seeds

½ tsp black peppercorns

½ tsp coriander seeds (optional)

½ tsp chilli flakes (optional)

2 sprigs of thyme (optional)

2 bay leaves (optional)

Method

  1. Peel the beetroot by cutting the tops and bottoms off and slipping the skins off.
  2. Cut the beetroot into slices, dice or wedges.
  3. Pack the beetroot into jars.
  4. Combine all the pickling liquor in a saucepan and bring to the boil.
  5. Stir the mixture on the heat until the sugar dissolves.
  6. Pour over the beetroot and seal the jars.
  7. Leave to mature for 2 weeks before eating.

 

Fresh organic beetroot in the farm shop at les Jardins Vergers de la Petite Renaudière, our local market garden and orchard.

Beetroot in an organic farm shop, France.


Homemade pickled beetroot.

Homemade pickLed beetroot.


Homemade pickled beetroot.

Homemade pickLed beetroot.


Beetroot with other salad items on the side of a lamb and red wine pie, in a café in Tenterfield, Australia.

Pie and saLad, AustraLia.


A typical Aussie burger, with a slice of beetroot above the tomato and below the beef patty, at a café in Talbingo, Australia.

Hamburger, AustraLia.


Laurent, who adopted the role of beetroot wrangler at a party we held.

Party, France.

Thursday, 22 January 2026

A New View on the World

We have been living in France for almost 17 years, and in that time, if we wanted French TV we had to look at it on our phones. We're in a shadow here, so any aerial to receive it to our TV would have to be 20' high, and provoke the council.

As I wrote two weeks ago, our TV was on its last legs. Luckily a TV came up on the soldes at SuperU for 99€, and Susan bought it with our shopping. We still don't get French TV through the aerial or the satellite, but once I sorted out some WiFi issues with a range extender we now get French TV via the France TV and TV1 apps.


To celebrate, we watched a 1970 musical film "Peau d'âne" ("Donkey Skin" in English), a French fairy tale by Charles Perrault about a princess who disguises herself in a donkey's skin to escape her father's incestuous desire to marry her.

It was... interesting, and it's nice to have French TV, but it will be a while until I next venture into the world of French movies.

Wednesday, 21 January 2026

Beavering Away

On Saturday we went for a little walk to visit a tree that Susan had seen the day before. 

The Eurasian Beaver (Castor fiber) is a different species to the North American Beaver. It is the largest rodent in Europe, and is just slightly smaller than it's American cousin.


At the beginning of the 20th century the Beaver population in France was restricted to the Rhône river, and was estimated at no more than a few dozen localised in the lower reaches. In an effort to avoid extinction, in the 1960s until the mid 1980s more than 250 were released in 15 different departments in the Centre, the North-east and in Brittany, all having been taken from the Rhône population.



Since that time the populations have grown slowly, with an expansion in range in some regions. The only river in Poitou Charentes where a reintroduction was attempted was the Creuse in Vienne where 4 beavers were released between 1970 and 1973 but this failed. In the period from 1973 to 1976, 13 beavers were released in the river Loir in Loir-et-Cher, and during 1994-1996 another 13 were released in the river Loir, in the departement of the same name. Both of these releases were successful. From the river Loir the beavers have bred and slowly increased their range and are now found in the rivers Vienne, Creuse, Gartempe, Anglin, Salleron, Clain, Thouet, and Argenton. We think they're also present in the Claise, because Tim has trailcam footage of a beaver in the Aigronne.

A pair of trees felled last year. By the time I took this photo it was raining, and the camera was having issues focusing. It has been passed through ChatGPT.


Anyway. As you can see, the beavers are making their presence felt, in this case in the Creuse at Yzeures.

Tuesday, 20 January 2026

Chopitty Chop Chop Chop

A couple of years ago Susan wrote about having a haircut and donating the resulting excess hair to cancer charity Fake Hair, Don't Care.

Time rolls around, and last week she emailed the hairdresser for a repeat performance. I happened to be in the room at the time and said "make one for me, too". I must admit I was in two minds about having a haircut, but it's been getting to the stage where I had to get my hair exactly right, otherwise it was in the way.

Anyways: last Friday we fronted at the hairdresser's and I had my first haircut in 6 years - the last time was in preparation for a work season that was demolished by the plague in 2020. Not all of my hair was suitable for wig making, but she did find enough to make a serious hank. The rest had been damaged, presumably by one or other if my treatments.

Before. I didn't realise that it was quite that long - or stylish.

The donation has been taken, now it's time to shape the rest


My hair, yesterday


It's still long enough (just) to put in a hair band for that aged rocker look, but I do feel like a weight has been lifted off my shoulders.


Monday, 19 January 2026

Truffles in the Touraine

Black Truffle Tuber melanosporum (Fr. Truffe noire) is native to the  Touraine Loire Valley, but has long since disappeared from the wild. According to the experts and old timers the best place to find truffles was under isolated oak trees in the middle of wheat fields, but seventy years of modern farming practices and fungicides sprayed on wheat crops have destroyed the habitat for truffles. The truffles benefitted from the disturbance of the soil with the plough and the minor damage done to the tree roots, allowing the truffle mycelium to latch on, providing the conduit for a symbiotic exchange of nutrients. It may explain why isolated mature oak trees in the middle of fields continue to be a not uncommon sight in the Touraine. 

Oak trees in the fields, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Oak trees dotted about the fields.

Nowadays, because of their extirpation in the wild, truffles are cultivated, in orchards planted with inoculated oak trees. Black Truffles fruit in the winter, and over winter there is a series of specialist markets, traditionally in the otherwise undistinguished village of Marigny-Marmande, and nowadays in several others.

Truffle orchard, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Truffle orchard.

Local growers tell me that alternating wet and warm weather from May to July is crucial to ensuring a good truffle harvest over the winter, from November to February, so I assume the harvest this winter is expected to be poor because of the hot dry conditions last summer. The markets before Christmas double as general seasonal gourmet markets, with other producers there to sell their venison, snails, nuts and dried fruits, preserves, winter pork and poultry products and cheeses, speciality breads, honey and wines. The markets after Christmas are all about the truffles, with far fewer stalls, and tree whips inoculated with truffle spores available for those who want to try a few in their garden for fun. Serious truffle buyers come in January, when the quality of the truffles is at its best. About six tonnes of truffles, 10% of national production, are harvested these days in the Loire Valley, from 400 ha of truffle orchards, making the area a major player nowadays. Back in 1900 the harvest of wild truffles here was a thousand tonnes.

Black Truffles at a market, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Black truffles at the specialist market in Marigny-Marmande.

Anyone with a truffle orchard is playing a long game. The trees will take at least ten years to produce a truffle, and some may never do so. Others will go on to produce truffles for thirty years or more. My friendly local truffle guru, now deceased, told me that a good truffle orchard has a mixture of the local species of oak, and the evergreen species that is native to the south of France. The local oak is small, deciduous and adapted to the local poor dry chalky soils and will produce truffles earlier than the evergreen species, but is weakened by the truffles and has a shorter lifespan than the evergreens. He owned two lively truffle hounds, a Jack Russell called Pierre, and a wire haired dachshund called Odile. Truffle hounds can be any breed of dog, and are trained by getting them to play fetch with a truffle oil impregnated sparkling wine cork.


Me buying a truffle some years ago in Marigny-Marmande.

Buying a truffle, France.

The cultivation and commercialisation of truffles came about in the late 19th century because so many vines were grubbed up due to phylloxera. Instead of vines, farmers planted oaks. They understood that the trees would quite likely have truffles attach themselves to the roots. But by the end of World War One there was no labour to work on the land, then the Depression and another World War, and the trees had reached the end of their productive life. So truffles became once again scarce and expensive. 

 

Truffle orchard near the Chateau de Marigny-Marmande.

Truffle orchard, France.

Truffle orchards began being planted again in the 1970s, often by bourgeois enthusiasts at their country homes, keen to revive a tradition. INRA, the French national agronomy research institute, developed a technique of inoculation of oak and hazel saplings that resulted in a quarter of the trees producing truffles within a decade. Today 90% of French truffles are cultivated and there are about 20 000 truffle farmers in France. Drought and wild boars are the biggest problems that they face. The reason pigs are such good truffle hunters is that the aroma of truffle is the same as boar pheromones, so the sows go crazy for them. In the wild it means the truffles can spread due to the boars ploughing.


Further reading: Touraine Truffle Association (in French, with a list of markets where you can buy truffles)  https://www.latruffedetouraine.fr/ .