Gourmet and Specialist Markets in the Touraine Loire Valley

Beautiful ceramics by my friend Mark Judson at L'Art et Lard

Street markets are common everywhere in France. Everywhere has its weekly market where locals pick up their regular supply of fresh fruit and vegetables, meat and dairy. But lots of places also have special annual gourmet markets. I’ve written already about the truffle market at Marigny-Marmande, and two other favourites of mine are the saffron market in my own village and the combined art and food market, called L’Art et Lard, held in a nearby village.

Pressing apple juice at L'Art et Lard.

My own village, population 1000, was one of the medieval centres of saffron growing in medieval times and the annual saffron market is a 20th century revival of a medieval tradition. It is held in February, when things are quiet, and although small, it is usually successful because of the unusual products on offer. Markets were and are an important way of getting cash moving around the local economy and even today serve a social function, getting the community together both as customers, but also as volunteers to set up and take down market infrastructure. My village got into trouble from the authorities in Paris in the 19th century for not holding enough fairs and markets ie the local authorities were seen as not looking after the community properly.

Publicity poster for L'Art et Lard.

In the next village along, Le Petit Pressigny, population 330, their annual gourmet market is combined with an art fair. Residents volunteer to host an artist, who display their work for sale in barns and troglodyte caves. Down in the town square tents are set up and food producers can take a booth and sell their wares. It is held in the autumn, hoping to catch the last of the nice weather and is usually a huge success. Members of the public pick up a map to show them which houses are hosting artists and what best the trail around the village is. A buffet is set up for lunch, or people book a table at the Michelin starred restaurant in the village, and many people stay the whole day.

Artisan beer, made in his garage, by Tommy Barnes, who has written a book about his adventures as a brewer and English immigrant in a small village in France. Braslou Bière is one of the many artisanal breweries springing up in the Loire Valley in the last few years.

Many villages also hold small one day Christmas markets too, to showcase special local produce and artisanal gift ideas. These are much more competitive of course, as they all have to be crammed into a much shorter space of time.

I was interested to see this canola oil press in operation on the producer's stall at l'Art et Lard in Le Petit Pressigny in October. What interested me as much as anything was how small scale it was.

The saffron fair is held in our village gymnasium. Every year a local chef and his team create a saffron themed lunch.

Local restaurateurs handing out free saffron flavoured amuses bouches.

My lovely friend Sandy, who with her partner Tony, grows and sells organic apples.

Pierre Gaillard of Girouettes Gaillard fashions a cockerel for a weather vane out of zinc.

 

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For details of our private guided tours of chateaux, gardens, wineries, markets and more please visit the Loire Valley Time Travel website. We would be delighted to design a tour for you.

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UPDATE -- REPONSES TO COMMENTS:

Jean -- it never occurred to me that the equivalent event in the UK would have an entry fee. Makes it much less inclusive and community oriented I would have thought.