Reinette du Mans Apples

The Reinette du Mans apple may not look very appetizing, but it is in fact a legendary apple amongst those who know heritage varieties. The Slow Food Foundation has listed it as one of the varieties in its Ark of Taste, a project that aims to save foods that have outstanding flavour but are in danger of disappearing. It comes from a small town to the east of Le Mans, hence the name, and was first documented in the 17th century. Its peak of production was between the World Wars, when it was in high demand in Paris.

The fruit is green, turning yellow when ripe, and the skin is covered in small grey spots. The trees flower late, so it is good in areas where spring frosts are a problem. Unfortunately it is susceptible to sooty mould, which spoils the look of the fruit and therefore its commercialisation. But apple connoisseurs know that this is just a cosmetic problem. 

The apples ripen late, in October, and will keep from one harvest to the next if stored well. The flesh is firm and juicy, and very aromatic. When first picked it is eaten raw, then after it has been stored for a while, cooked and served with pork or in tarte Tatin. It holds its shape and texture when cooked, and makes nice juice.

It is rarely grown outside of Sarthe (the county around Le Mans) and Indre et Loire (the county we live in). The ones in the photos were at the market in Preuilly, grown by our local organic orchard. Sandy, who was selling them, seemed taken aback by my levels of ignorance when I asked her if they were like the Reinette du Canada grise, a popular variety for non-commercial growers like myself, and which I have in my orchard. She frowned and said 'No!' 'Completely different, no comparison!' and indicated that the Reinette du Canada grise was distinctly second rate compared to the ultra delicious and special Reinette du Mans.